casts_by_fly

If that's what you like then rock and roll. I don't mind a light body full on peat monster now and then. Summer around a campfire. But I much prefer a bit more complexity to it. if you haven't tried it, Ledaig is a pretty good shout in that realm and less common than the usual Ardbeg, and L-scotches.

Another option you could consider is a bixby or similar rear mounted motor. I was out tuesday and a guy had one on the back of a jackson kayak. I'd say he was getting a solid 5-5.5 mph as he passed me coming down the lake. I'm not sure what the power consumption would be (thus battery size) but the motor itself is small and would add negligible weight. You'd still use the pedals while fishing, but that's a far sight less pedaling.

I agree. Its awesome for docks in particular but any cover you want to pick apart its a big benefit. Its nice when you're coming down a bank with a moving bait and come to a big laydown. Stop short of it and lock. Pitch a jig all around it. Click the remote a couple times and you're now locked on the other side of it. You don't have to unlock, move, reset with the wind/current, etc.

An oc is a fairly typical ardbeg. Tons of heavy peat smoke, lighter body underneath. I prefer my peat be mixed with a heavy slug of sherry or other barrel influence. Not sure what’s available in your area, but going to a bigger bowmore adds a lot of complexity and pulls back some peat. There are also Isley scotches that have had a lot of sherry barrel aging.

correct. The power drive models need the puck. It’s not a hard upgrade, but it’s about $150-200 and a bit of time to add it. Jog is great if you pick apart cover and docks.

An autopilot will mean either more weight or more trips going up that hill at the end. I start at 125# for the boat, batteries, and seat which is how I lift it into the bed. Another 25 for the motor, 10 more for electronics, plus rods, tackle, and bag. I bet I’m at 200# on the water before I add me. Don’t get me wrong, I love my autopilot. Aside from loading (which I have a system for) and top end speed (which I have to plan around) it’s a fishing machine when you’re on the water. Just be aware of the limitations.

I don't keep fish very often and I never freeze fresh caught fish. Its too tasty to eat them fresh, so I only keep what I have a plan to eat in the next week.

If you're going to vacuum seal, don't by bags. Buy the rolls. WAY cheaper and make them whatever size you want (that you machine can handle).

It makes a big difference. I normally fish a Zako or vertical rage menace on a chatterbait and you can watch them roll as you pull them over a log. I don't have enough wood to justify doing it all the time on my lakes here but one or two places I'll swap out. the horizontal body trailer gives a flat base to slide up over a log. Any trailer of that orientation works the same. I have a palmetto bug on one that's the same.

Yup. That's the tradeoff.

change your trailer if you're having that problem. A rage bug rigged flat on the bottom will slide up over wood really well.

congrats. You'll never go back now. If the remote size becomes a problem, you can pick up the micro remote for about $100 USD and its about the size of the keyfob for a car. Limited features, but it gives you steering, lock, and jump I think. Maybe more. Also, if that's the actual box you got ipilot link, not just ipilot. That means you can link to Humminbird fish finders and talon poles (and some other stuff). You'll need 'n' version fish finders to network them.

and fiberglass is heavier. It simply takes more force to get it moving. A higher freeboard on most aluminums provide more surface area for the 'sail' and a lighter boat allows move acceleration for a given wind. Do you keep your big motor trimmed down while on the trolling motor? That's a big difference if you don't already.

Look for the thread "maximizing your prespawn time on the water" a page or two down in this general forum. Some good discussion on this very topic.

Not sure which level of model you’re talking about. I have a couple Stx in gen 3 and 4, sx gen 4, and an mgx in whatever generation they were last. I like the gen 4 reels a lot. But not at MSRP. I don’t have the gen 5 stx but they aren’t discounted so at $225 there are a lot better reels out there and especially if you buy Jdm. That will be why you haven’t seen many real world reviews.

Within a half pound or better. Start of the season I’ll weigh the first couple fish of every trip for weight and length. Fish around here of normal build will be about a half pound per inch. 20-21” will be really close to 5#. And 18” fish is a solid 3.5#. Anything under 18” is just a quick length and throw it back.

Get a set of cheap used roof racks (should be plenty available even at a junkyard) and an 8’ piece of 6-8” pvc with two end caps (one threaded). Then just put them on the roof.

fair enough. Glad you have a resolution. now you just need to decide how much you want to spend to fix it. I gave my recco above but I admit its not the only option or the option for everyone. Also, if you have a repair mode on your charger then I would still give that a try. I did it last year on an 8 ah that was in an aquavue camera and it pulled it back enough to be usable.

I hate wasting the long tag end when I have to take a palomar around a bigger bait. Also more line to manage during tying when a trilene knot works just the same. Same for me.

My 'frog rod' is currently rigged up with a 3/4 oz double willow and it going to get a work out this afternoon doing that. I haven't told it that its a frog rod though, so it hasn't realized its limitations yet.

also a cranking battery type. I'd be cautious running one below 50% for the reasons in the OP.

Also, as you're looking at that picture, think about it like a flashlight. Hooked the back of the boat, the 2D is the full round beam. If you tilted it forward, it would be like you were walking along a path and what hits the ground now becomes an ellipse, not a circle. The bottom depth will be shallower (closer) at the front of the ellipse on the ground and deeper (further) on the far end. If you tilted it at a steeper angle the front of the beam would hit the bottom for hundreds of feet. The head unit is programmed to translate the returns from the bottom based on a circle and known geometry. Same applies for the downscan, except its a narrow strip of light and not a full round beam.

google shopping is your friend. It will scape any published prices from all over the web. For that matter, Amazon does also. Its worth a look on there as there are lots of brick and mortar shops that have amazon stores. Amazon typically scrapes the cheapest prices and a lot of the stores are set up to offer those prices. I bought my helix and live that way.

if you're trying to make a poor man's live scope it won't work. The refresh rate and the power output will not provide a clear enough image.

Yes, I would agree with that. If you're throwing magnum sized beaver/creatures then maybe. If I was throwing a space monkey all the time I would probably go to the 5/0. For general work and keeping a good few in the box, a 3/0 and 4/0 would cover most anything.