casts_by_fly

Ha! Its actually not that complicated and its just like a regular car. You have a total range and you drive it. You just have to be at a charger (gas station) before you get empty. If you're towing it takes more energy (gas). The main differences to a regular car is that electrics are more affected by freezing temps (the battery spends energy to keep itself warm) and it takes a little longer to fill the tank sometimes. Those two things might matter for you or might not depending on how you drive and where you are.

I agree on this. They are also much smaller than a lot of other chargers. On my autopilot I have an 80 ah main battery and a 30 ah accessory battery. I picked the 5A to be able to charge both. On each battery I added a set of ends which stay in the boat with the batteries. The charger sits at home. When I get home, I plug one in, let it charge, then plug in the other later. Just plug the ends and never open the battery box. The best course with lithiums is to have a meter. A regular battery meter won't work since it measures voltage. You need a battery with a built in meter or add a shunt style meter. Then you have good information on your status.

Functionally you will have no practical difference on a 7' 3 wt so pick the one you want. I like an uplocking seat to hide one of the hoods in the cork. I just think it looks cleaner. I agree with both of these comments. Again, on a 7' 3 wt, you're not trying to bang out 75' casts (you can, but that's not the purpose). That's the reasoning for putting a stripping guide further up the blank (or using a shooting guide which is a better solution yet). For a small stream trout rod, I want the stripping guide where I can easily reach it. There will be plenty of times when you aren't holding the line in your non rod hand and need to gather it. Sometimes it will be right after a cast and you don't want to disturb the drift of your fly. I don't want to have to pull the rod back to my hip to be able to reach the stripper. most of mine end up around 27" or so and the ones that are longer it is noticeable in use. I have put keepers on some rods but generally not. Your leader is probably longer than your rod so putting a hook in a hook keeper in front of the grip means you always have your leader kinked on the tip top. I always leave the entire leader out of the tip, wrap around the base of the reel, and hook it into whichever guide is nearest. Usually that's a stripper but I don't care if its a single foot wire either. I hate this so much. I know plastic reel seats are probably the best functional seats. If I was building a 14 wt for tarpon or sailfish I'd probably use one. You can abuse them, they hold any and every reel foot securely, they are inexpensive. And I hate seeing them on fly rods. They just feel and look cheap to me. A fly rod aesthetic (for me) is a nice piece of wood, some knurled metal, fine threads, great cork, and clean, simple wraps. When I'm fishing with a fly rod its not because its the most efficient, lowest cost way to catch fish. I've moved to a full wells across the board. I like a thicker grip and I like a thumb spot. A half wells works too and if I'm using a downlocking seat then I'll taper the rear of the half wells right down to the trim ring of the seat. But that's not my preference.

Red eye shads come in a 1/4 oz size that is deadly in ponds.

My jigs and vibrating jigs stay rigged with plastics indefinitely. The first time I tie them on to use they get a trailer and it gets replaced if it gets broken up. When I’m done at the end of the day I don’t strip them down before they go back in the box. Next trip out they get fished until they break. only exception is elaztech. Don’t leave them rigged with other plastics (and for that reason they don’t go on jigs anymore).

For anyone who isn’t on the email list, humminbird just released a rebate if you buy live and a helix at the same time. $500 for up to a 10” unit and $1000 if you go 12” or bigger. Has to be from the same retailer (be careful to get both from the same sold by if you use Amazon) and on the same invoice. Glad I waited until now, but I pulled the trigger today on a 9” msi+ and live. Should be here next week and will get installed basically immediately. my helix 7 msi g3 will probably be in the classifieds next weekend.

Glad it worked out. If you only charged for 2 hours after then that’s 20 ah (I think you went 10 am genius). You barely touched your battery. You’ve got two days minimum if you need. Enjoy!

i agree on the ridgeline look. Kinda a cross between a ridgeline and a new bronco. Not my thing, but hey ho. The rivian has a lot more space in it and if you want to use the pass throughs and other hatches you can also fit long and big stuff. Its clever. still not my thing though. We have an X which is a bit bigger than the Y. For a family of 4 its PLENTY big even if you have car seats (we are just two of us plus two dogs). There is a ton of storage in places you can't see. Interior space is comparable to similar full sized SUVs. We have put 5 adults in our 5 seater for 1-hour type trips. Our previous was the 7 seater and the third row is cramped, but you can put 5 adults and 2 kids in with no problems. 7 adults for short trips (aka Rick being DD and picking up the drunk wife and friends from the bar). Electric vehicles certainly aren't for everyone and a 100% electric vehicle country (eliminate all gas and diesel vehicles 1:1) isn't a reality in any of our futures. Big heavy towing is one for sure, LONG trips is another. But your questions above are largely solved and they will be the future for the majority of people. The rare minerals you're referring to are primarily lithium. Some batteries use cobalt, manganese, and others, but the technology is shifting to LiFePo (same as boat lithium batteries) which is much safer and more friendly. There is plenty of lithium in the world and its not concentrated in 'bad' places (bad meaning poor environmental records, hostile governments, etc). The US has the 4th highest reserve and Australia the fifth last I knew. The batteries are recyclable. Recycling for lithium batteries exists now but is hit or miss because most lithium batteries are smaller and spread over many consumers (think handheld devices). It also relies on consumers recycling them and not sending them to landfill. A car is different. The scrap value for a 1988 Chevy cavalier (which people will sell to scrapyards now) is FAR lower than the scrap value of a lithium battery powered car. There is no reason to think that when Li battery cars are at end of life they won't get scrapped and recycled. Range is a thing for now, but always getting better. For most people its not an issue. I forget the statistics, but I think its an average of 30 or 40 miles per day for the bulk of people. With a 300 mile range you can commute all week without plugging anything in. As more charging infrastructure is built, it will be imminently convenient to stop for 5 minutes and top up. And, if you're so inclined you can put a charger at home (we have) which eliminates all standard driving concerns about range in daily use. Also, ranges are steadily increasing. Top of the market right now is around 350 miles, but the only limiting factors are size and cost. The new Ram EV truck is forecast to be 500+. I suspect that's because the truck is a good bit longer than a normal car so they have added a 50% longer battery. Obviously that gets you more range, but it also cuts charging time for a fixed range (i.e. if you need to add 200 miles range it will be faster in a 500 mi capacity battery than a 300 mi capacity battery). Charging station infrastructure is steadily increasing depending on the area. If stations are not in your area or at your workplace, then I can see an electric not being for you. But, infrastructure will continue to grow and the stations being put in now are higher powered and faster than previous generations. The last two trips we took we used chargers that were charging at nearly 1000 mi range per hour charge. For our 350 mile battery we added a half charge in about 10 minutes. For a single stop trip (aka 500 miles) you'd do the same with a gas vehicle. The primary remaining issue is power grid. We're still reliant on fossil fuels. That said, 1 watt put through your tires to the pavement which was delivered to you produced from FF at a power plant is more efficient than 1 watt put the ground through your tires delivered in a gas engine. And the power grid will evolve over time as more solar and wind charging comes on line which will only make it better. The fossil fuel supply chain has largely maxed out on efficiency. Any vehicle is going to lose range when towing, especially an 8100 trailer. A normal truck will get 15-20 mpg on the highway. Towing you're going to drop to 8-12 depending what you're towing. That's in line with the same range drop on the electric vehicles. Of course the difference is how fast you can fill that range back up. For a single stop/charge trip it isn't going to make a significant difference to your travel time. A single charging stop is going to take you 15-20 minutes depending on how far you need to charge and which vehicle you're in. When we charge, you park, plug in, and run into the store for a bathroom/drink break all while you're charging. If we've ordered an MTO then the car is ready by the time we're back in it. If you're filling up a liquid tank, most gas stations are going to take 5 minutes at least to do that and then you're going to run in, get your MTO/bathroom, and go. So for a single stop isn't not much difference. When you go for multiple stops then for sure you're adding time. If there were charge points at the ramp though, you drive 150 miles to the lake, plug in, and drive 150 miles home. I don't see that happening any time soon though.

When its a case where I am throwing GP type colors (brighter light, clearer water) which is most of the time up here, straight GP is what I grab on a trailer. Then again, I also carry GP blue, GP red flake, GP purple swirl, and california craw depending what bait it is and which plastic shape it is. Not because one works better than the other but because that's what they had when I bought it. Life would be so boring without choices. If I were hiking to a back country bass hangout, I'd just grab the GP and be done with it.

The gamakatsu G-finesse are my lighter wire hook replacements. The Gamakatsu round bend magic eye are my standard wire replacements. On a lipless I prefer the lighter wire, but don't mind the standard round bend. On crankbaits I tend t go the standard wire first.

Here's a starter. Its for north NJ but it will get you started. https://rucore.libraries.rutgers.edu/rutgers-lib/32418/PDF/1/ And another with better pictures, but focused on invasives: https://www.nj.gov/dep/wms/Doyle -InvasiveAquaticPlants_ChrisD_05.02.2017.pdf

Very true, but iced cold Casamigos straight from the bottle that you just pulled out of an ice cooler while you stood in the pool isn't the worst celebrity tequilla. In fact it is quite lovely.

we make about a 10-cup pot almost every day. When we are both working from home or on a weekend I drink 6-7 cups of it. When I'm home alone usually drink all of it.

We see a bunch of them around here, both the truck and the SUV. The truck has some neat features that they have designed in since they were coming from an electric platform base and the building a truck around it instead of starting from a gas truck and electrifying it. They look decent, if a little 'marshmallow-y', aka rounded edges and a little puffed up. The range is commensurate with the top end of the market. Its definitely aimed at the truck buyer who only kinda needs a truck and not someone who is using a truck because they need the capability of a truck specifically. Not to say the rivian isn't capable, that's just not who they are marketing it towards.

No need to go expensive at all. Lots of options for fly rods depending on your preferences. I'd suggest just plain wire single foot guides and matching tip. Nothing special there. I'd only use a single stripping guide to keep down weight, probably a #10 regular frame casting guide. Since this is your first fly rod, get a preformed grip that's already cut for an uplocking reel seat of your choice. Once you've done those three things, the actual building is just the same as any other rod. For blanks, I don't know the new rainshadows, but I built a TON of the IM6/IM7 series back in the day. They were great blanks for the money. I have the 6'6" downstairs and while its a nice blank, it is a little short for anything bigger than a brook trout stream and even then I prefer a little longer rod. The 7' 3 wt IM6 was a great blank and taper. I did a lot of those and it was a significant improvement over the 6'6" in all ways to me. I imagine they have maintained or improved the profiles and flex in the new series.

No, I don't think that's a typo. The area of the blank he's talking about is a high flex area. The primary structure is being provided by the outer sleeve. However, where the main blank comes together if there is no reinforcement inside it will make a hinge and flatten, putting a stress point on the inside of the outer sleeve. The short inner section is just to maintain the roundness of the blank and prohibit that one specific point from making a hinge without adding extra stiffness under the outer sleeve. Photo 3 goes with section three which is much further down the rod.

I haven't found a 12V air fryer, but definitely a slow cooker or stove!

Prevalent and fish the most? Aquatic vegetation. Every lake here gets chock full of it by the end of may and short of a dieback or being sprayed they mat up by the end of June. Its a mix of lily pads, pondweeds, and milfoil mostly. We get some others but not mostly. The fish relate to it depending on the underwater structure, but once the grass grows in you don't find them NOT in the grass hardly.

yeah, that’s what I was thinking. I use 30 and 50 lb 832 for other things. Brand new it’s even a little stiff and wiry, but my 30 lb is nicely broken in and super soft. I figure this 10 lb should break in quickly.

Like I said at the start, this rod is more for me to fish a Ned or similar finesse type bait that isn’t necessarily true bfs so it’s not the biggest deal with the crappie jig. Also, I was able to cast the crappie jig sidearm so if I really want to fish it I can. It’s only about twice a year that I would do that anyway. I also imagine that a little bit of use plus maybe some kvs l&l would soften it up just a little.

extra anejo.

Hi all, Just a minor update. I got in the 10 lb 832 today and swapped the line over. Not sure if its because its new braid or why, but it does not come off the spool nearly as well as the 8 lb monofilament. The little crappy jig (5/64 total weight) isn't easily pitchable anymore. I've taken out all spool tension and magnets. I can still get 20' but you have to work hard. You have to let the lure start dropping and the spool rotating before you start the rod action. A more sidearm pitch seems to help as you can get a little more swing and lure speed.

Fortaleza is very good. I have the plata in the cabinet. If you like bigger, richer, and somewhat sweeter tequillas then here are three extra anejo to try: Cava d'Oro - incredibly fruity nose (peaches and apricots). Light on the body (compared to the other two). A little sweet, but not overly. Still that distinct tequilla smell, but muted. Addictivo - fairly fruit nose, but the fruits are more stewed that fresh cut. Also a good bit more caramel on the nose. A touch sweeter than Cava d'oro and a much longer finish. Rich aftertaste. Compoveda - Very rich. The nose is almost entirely caramel, honey, vanilla, and a touch of oak. Rich body and fairly sweet in the mouth. Long aftertaste. I try to keep all three in the house because they are all similar but still different. They have the sweetness/richness of a rum with a fruity tequila flavor profile. thanks, rick

Yep. Same for me too. I keep one in the boat, one in the truck, and one in the house. It takes forever before the nozzle is unusable and even then just cut a little off the tip and you're good again.

pick your trailer based on the shape/size of the baitfish you have around and then listen to what the bass say from there. I use zakos if I want a bigger profile and they are my default trailer for most of the year. I swap to a rage menace if I want a shorter/taller looking profile like a bluegill. In stained water the fish are going on feel and sound as much or more than sight with a vibrating jig. In stained water they will hear it coming from a mile away but only see it when its a couple feet away. My personal opinion is that when they hear it coming they have probably already decided if they are going to eat it and as long as the shape is close enough they are going to eat it.