casts_by_fly

Hi gents, what’s your usual follow up bait for chasers that don’t take? A small soft swim bait like a keitech is usually ‘on the deck’ for me for that purpose. Yesterday though I had a chaser that followed an a-rig to the boat but turned when he got close. I didn’t have anything else good rigged so threw the a-rig back through a few times with different retrieves without luck. But it made me think what other options there could be worth keeping tied on for that occasion. thansk rick p.s. I could see liking a Alabama rig. That was my first time throwing it and I didn’t have the right rod in the boat for that weight but will next time (it’s already tied up).

The Bucoo SR 6'10" rods are great rods (just fished my 6 power last night) and right at $100 (10% off lots of places for first time orders also). Can't tell you how it skips though as I spent a half hour trying to figure it out and still haven't gotten there. thanks rick

You'll have up front costs to factor in. At a minimum, a rod dryer and a thread wrapper, various tools, finishes and threads, etc that are all used for more than just one rod. So the first rod probably isn't going to be cheaper. Also, on lower end rods the savings isn't worth the time unless you just can't get what you want in a commercial rod. As a hobby? Its great fun like tying your own flies, building your own lures, etc. Its always good to be self sufficient at the things you enjoy doing. Higher end rods are a different story. You can go really high end in a custom rod that you build yourself and be around half or less for a comparable factory rod.

Ha! I was thinking the same thing. I imagine there must be a 30 degree swing between the san diego lakes and the sierras. On the assumption of colder my first suggestion was going to be a chatterbait (maybe even a jackhammer!) but...

12 and under here (NJ) must wear them on any boat. Over 12 and you don't have to wear one on any boat. That's the baseline law. Some lakes, state parks, or other places will require PFD use so you have to check for the place you're at.

for sure. A half a dozen wraps or so past the end of the guide foot. The thread itself is pretty light, but the finish has to cover it and that will add a bit of weight. Since you're going for minimal, every little helps. Like Mick said, permagloss is (I think) the lightest finish to get a full coating, but It takes too many coats for me. I'm a 2-part epoxy guy with the first coat just enough to wet the wraps and fill the tunnels. because I didn't know about it? I've been out of the game for a while (I lived in the UK and had no reason to build much of anything).

if it were mine I’d be looking at SiC Ti framed guides. I’ll take the slight weight penalty for what I think are the best guides ever made (at least that I’ve built with).

Mudhole elite-X 7’ 1/16-3/8 ML F. https://mudhole.com/collections/mhx-elite-x-rod-blanks/products/mhx-70-med-light-elite-x-rod-blank-np842-mhx i don’t know the blank but it seems about what you want. I’m sure there are others but I’ve not built in a while so don’t know everything out there.

If you are strictly going for weight I think you’ll come in around 2.5oz, maybe even 2oz if you’re careful. You can get a blank around 1.2 oz for the length and power. An amtak bravos or wave seat is going to be minimal weight and if you use a carbon bushing it adds next to nothing. I’d guess a half ounce or so. You’re definitely going split grip, so just a rear tiny butt needed for a quarter ounce. For absolute lightest weight I think a set of small recoil guides would be the lightest. A set of small fly guides for the running guides plus 3 recoil spinning guides would be around 0.05 oz. You’ll have epoxy and adhesives, winding check or two, hook keeper if you want. I think you’d be just over 2 ounces. all that said, light weight is great but just make sure the compromises you’re making are still fishable for you. A little heavier of a reel seat or rear grip doesn’t change the fishability and might even pull the tip up in use. thanks rick

I just got the expert amistad for frogging and punching. I haven’t used it for frogs yet but its going to be great for it. I fished it with a heavy spinnerbait and it feels really good. It might be a bit heavy if you’re going to fish open-ish water and walk the frog but it would get it done. Next trip out I’m going to use that rod for an a-rig as I think it would be good for it also.

The kayak has a semi fibrous semi foam bottom that is hard to describe other than- it gets wet. Wet means it soaks up the slime and smell. I picked up a wet suit cleaner to get rid of the funk smell and it works. I just leave the plugs in a fill up the boat with an inch of water to let it soak. Pull the plug and rinse it out.

on the free navionics website you can choose sonar chart or navionics mapping. It’s one of the map options.

when you say overlaid with google earth, do you mean for the land based items or for seeing the google earth water photo with depth lines on it? The navionics website will take care of the first. I don't know a way to do the second. thanks rick

the salt in plastics will eat at some hooks, so I'd just inspect them before use. Pretty hard to rust through enough to make a jig hook unusable, but better be safe and check

And if Northerns are slimy for you, then you'd REALLY hate pickerel. They are called snot rockets for a reason.

That's all my dad throws still. He's upgraded reels a couple times but the rods are perfect for him (he's been doing it a LOOONG time and knows what he likes). He gave me his spare cranking rod (7', 3/8-3/4, MH MF) and I use it. Good rods.

I've read that too and don't see it happening. I've never had it happen or had a close call. On the Gen 3 STX it is impossible. They still have a physical screw to start with, not a switch. Then, the whole side plate has to twist 45 degrees while you hold the spring loaded screw out. If you don't know how to do it, you're going to struggle to get it off. The Gen 4 STX has a gull wing design with a hinge pin. You flip the switch on the back corner and the plate comes out about 1/4", then swings on the pin. it can't be removed easily. The Gen 4 SX (and the MGX for that matter) have the switch but no other locking mechanism. Flip the switch and you can pull the plate off. You'd have to clip the small switch on something without noticing and in one motion bump the rod/reel hard enough for it to pop loose. The switch isn't easy to slide accidentally and you'd have to have an odd hand position to do it inadvertently. thanks, rick

Looing at the TT review of the Patriarch in 2015, they show the insides and controls. Its basically a gen 3 Revo STX or a gen 4 Revo SX centrifugal/magnetic combo. I have both of those reels (not the patriarch) and they are quite similar to each other in control and use. The gen 4 SX is a bit heavier but feels a little tighter in tolerance. That might be because its a brand new SX vs 8 year old (but well taken care of) STX. The Pfleuger has the carbon handle which is a nice upgrade. In the Revo line you have to go to the Ike, Premier, or MGX to get that. The Gen 4 STX has IVCB-6 which I think is a better brake system, but for 3/8-1.5 oz I think its a moot point. thanks, rick

No reason why not unless they are 100+ lb alligator snappers. You might have some trouble landing them. We've caught plenty of turtles pond fishing (some intentional and some accidental like the one that ate a crankbait for my dad). Just haul them onto the bank or into the net, grab them by the tail, and unhook with pliers. Growing up we had a pond that I nicknamed "13 frogs pond". One summer saturday fishing it I got bored and the bass weren't eating. I had on an original frog/rat from before Mann's bought them (I forget the original maker it was Lloyd Talent). I'd look at the grass mat for a pair of eyes and cast just past them. All of the bullfrogs loved it and you can guess how many I caught that day.

And save the cork dust that you drill out. You can mix it with Elmer’s into a paste and patch over the injection holes. It should blend in pretty well.

yeah the cara or the expert. And a chronarch mgl would also be a nice accompaniment.

And then imagine going back to your other rods that aren't quite as tuned for you? Suddenly the butt catches your arm just a little more often or your hand doesn't feel quite right in that factory seat... Its a slippery slope. Maybe you can deal with it for a rod you only fish twice a year (your fifth favorite rod?). But what about your second favorite that you're always picking up next? I used to build a bunch of rods and at one time every rod I owned was custom. Not saying one was is right or not but its kinda like going to high end reels. Once you have one you need another one.

i knew you had the mhf low rider and while I don’t have that one, I have the trapcaster which is the mhmf. If I were to stiffen up the trapcaster to a fast action it would feel pretty close to the expert finesse jig.

I don’t have a cara so can’t compare. In reading and researching there is a split preference between the current experts and caras. I went expert and love it so much I’ve added two more experts (amistad and head turner). I also have a couple bucoos that I’m slowly upgrading into experts (the head turner is the first upgrade rather than straight add).