casts_by_fly

I have the 6’8” MH in the Cara line. It’s an older Falcon design that they have kept around. I am assuming the Evo is the same design/feel just with different graphite. I don’t mind the Cara for short range fishing with spinnerbaits and bladed jigs, but it is borderline for enough power to set a normal jig hook without braid and I don’t like braid for the reasons I mentioned above. If you have sharp hooks and lighter wire hooks in a jig or spinnerbait then you can get by. Instead, I keep it for walking baits due to its length and handle length. In the falcon lineup, a 6-power is really the sweet spot for bladed jigs (the exception being the 5-power swim jig which has a lot of oomph). I don’t know about getting one on clearance or with a discount, but the Bucoo 6’10” pitching stick (MSRP $99) is the one to look for if you can get one in your price range. that is the head turner model and my preferred choice.

@OldManLure- do your homework on the boots and overindex your spend there. My chest waders re still original Simms G3 guides from the original release ($400+ back in 2004 or so) and they are great. My waist waders are… $75 cabelas breathables (that I’m not sure they make anymore). A good belt, knee pads/reinforced knees, and a reinforced crotch are the main things. Since you’re only waist high, super high breathability and heat retention are less of a demand. Unless you plan to buy a couple pairs and return all but one, take the waders and your socks with you when you try on boots. Some are sized based on your nominal shoe size but expect you to add a neoprene bootie. Some assume a bootie and a thick sock. Some none of the above. I almost always have a thick wool sock when I’m wearing waders and I find I have to go a size bigger than my normal shoe size. A comfortable boot makes a big difference.

@Kev-mo- the benefit of waist over hip boots is comfort and ease mostly. Waist waders slip on like a pair of pants and wear just like that. Hip boots have to be worn over sturdy pants since they strap to your belt. They also rub in the crotch when you walk, so for any form of hiking in they are a no no (even walking back to the truck after a long walk downstream away from it). The other benefit of waist waders is being able to sit down on a wet rock or log. Or in the case of the last time I wore them- slip and fall flat on your butt in the mud. Convertible chest waders are a good second choice, especially if they are the type that have the shoulder straps built into the waist of the wader. Then when you roll down the tops you still have the suspenders holding up the waders. I don't like chest waders rolled down on a belt alone.

@bishoptf which model I meant. You said in the first post that you're throwing them on a medium. If you have the 6'6" or 7' medium EVOs, those are 4-power falcons. They do not have the oomph to set the hook. Those are light treble hook based rods. Even the MH options available are on the lighter side for being a MH. The 7' is going to be the best of the 4 M/MH Evos that they make for a vibrating jig rod, but even still it wouldn't be my overall choice in rod power/action for that use.

As in using a springier line than he has? C21 is a pretty limp line. It is on the lower memory/limp side of the equation so I don't think that is a problem for him at all (especially with only 12# test).

Which falcons do you have? For me, the head turner is my standard vibrating jig rod. The swim jig, heavy cover jig, and finesse jig all have a place depending in weight and cover. if you’re throwing a 1/4 oz minimax then the swim jig or the finesse jig are the right rods. All with 16 b sunline or equiavalent (15 big game, 14 lb trilene).

Stocking foot waders with a decent boot are far more comfortable if you are in anything rocky. it is not even close. Boot foot waders have basically no ankle support. Also, if you are an odder size you size the waders to your body and then the boots to your feet. I’ve fish all of them in all materials over the years. I keep rubber hip boots around because they are easy and durable. If I only need to be knee deep or if I am walking through briars or kneeling a lot or going for a quick trip then they are easy. I have waist waders (stocking foot)if I am going to be fishing all day, in an out of the truck, if it is hot, or if I am in a place where it is mostly knee deep but occasionally need to get waist deep then these get the call. Then I have my main chest waders which I will wear if it is cold, if I am fishing nearly waist deep a bit, etc. I bet I fish the waist waders the most. it is like having waterproof pants on. You can sit down on a wet log, kneel in the mud or otherwise not worry much. if you have to wade waist deep then you better make sure you know the bottom and also the water speed. Being waist deep when the water is flowing is not a good place to be.

In the mini, the 3/8 is going to fish like a 1/2 oz in the regular. That tiny blade doesn’t give a lot of lift so if you’re fishing 2-4’ you’re going to have to keep it moving fairly quickly. if the mini is the thing, try swapping to the quarter if the fish aren’t eating it well. Or jump up to the full sized blade and a 3/8 Evo or equivalent.

A revo gen 4 STX wouldn’t be a bad shout. I have 2 downstairs and would sell one. Maybe not for $50, but if you found a good one for $50 then that would be a good choice. I wouldn’t do a gen 3 (I have 2 of those as well). The Revo SX gen 4 would also be a good choice. I have a pair of them and you should be able to find one for $50 in good shape.

Sounds like a fun project. I don’t know the gent you mention, so if you’re going custom just make sure the guy knows BFS rods and what you want. It is one thing to build a custom rod (and that’s fine if you know your specifics well enough) but it is another to rely on a custom builder’s experience to guide you. So just make sure you’re getting what you need. What you’re looking for (2-10g, or 1/16-5/16 oz) can be had in a factory for if that’s what you want instead.

I fish a vibrating jig a good bit. I’m a faster action rod guy. I’ve fish them on braid, mono, and fluoro on a bunch of different rod powers and actions. For me, I much prefer a little faster action but with mono. Fishing them on braid, I find that the fish don’t get them into their mouths. Braid is so sensitive that I can feel them immediately hit it and there is no play/stretch to let them suck it in. So I prefer mid sized mono to give them an extra half second. And I want a faster actioned rod for the times when I’m behind or don’t have a tight line and need a little more to set the hook. The other thing that is less rod and line dependent is weight and speed. I just had this last Wednesday. I lost the first two because they just barely had it. In this case, the water was dirty from an algal bloom and I was fishing a 1/2 oz in relatively shallow water so moving fairly quickly. I was fishing that because I wanted black/dark and I only had it in a half. I swapped to a 3/8, did some skirt and trailer surgery, and was able to slow it down enough to what the fish were eating it at. The next couple fish were properly hooked and it made a world of difference.

if you like the concentration of flavor, then try good rums. Right now I have the Zacapa edition ***** poured. It’s a great sipper (especially with a cigar). The ***** is their usual solera aged in charred bourbon barrels so it adds the richer notes you get from barrel proof bourbons. It is rum so it is a little sweeter, but compared to high proof bourbons it has the similar sweetness and flavor intensity but at a 43% alcohol that is easier to sip. Just one online retailer: https://highlandswineseller.com/shop/product/ron-zacapa-edicion-negra-rum/58fe6df378c81a148a519306?option-id=82eefa605d9f0ab7c6d30bed12aa66447d31b4907821e662ca61e43b35e5e9bd&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&srsltid=AfmBOooRbBlj-u2TbfLBmlhy4xVlNkIyVrVp40QuXqdUXq0PuERc-ssspQg

Hi all, I have an old spinnerbait that is 25 years old (actually own 4 of them) that are very effective for me in the right circumstances. Except the hooks suck. They are old steel hooks, nickel plated maybe. Soft metal, lose an edge quickly. Rust easily. But the thump this spinnerbait puts out is like no other I’ve ever fished in 25 years. I’m going to try to match the thump in a modern bait with good hooks. I’m contemplating blade sizes and choices. The one I have is 3/8 (maybe even 5/16) and I think either a 4.5 or 5 single Colorado on a compact sized frame. I was figuring to get both 3/8 and 1/2 oz heads and 5 and 6 hildebrandts. Im throwing this into shallow cover, dark hours, along pad edges, etc and fishing 6-24” deep, crawling along slow. I’d love to be able to hover the bait in place with a 3/8 and a #6, just super creeping it along 12” under the water. The more thump the better. Anything I’m missing or should also consider?

the standard jdm met has an MGL spool. I think mgl3 but I’d have to go downstairs and check my boxes. in the $250 price range you have 2 choices. Either get a met or a zillion from Japan. Pick the gear ratio you want and just order it.

@Kayak Koz- I didn’t mean a custom trailer. I meant mock up what you need with unistrut, try it locally a few trips, then go to a welder like susky suggested to make it permanent. I wouldn’t want to use unistrut for a 900 mile trip or for permanence but it would be fine for a couple shorter weekend trips to see that you like the setup and it works. A welder won’t be that much money and you’ll get what you want for a support rack that you know won’t move. @FloridaFishinFool- the base boat he’s using weighs 125#. Battery and electronics added will put it around 150. He leaves his crate in and other accessories. Not sure if the motor is in the boat laid down when launched or he keeps it separate but that’s another 25lb. All in that’s 200# to launch. You’re not doing that with out wet launching it. I would leave the battery and seat in mine, but that was about it and it was still tough getting it in and out of the truck bed.

@FloridaFishinFool- having the rod box under the kayak isn’t going to go so well with a wet launch of the kayak… @Kayak Koz- If you are going to stick with the kayak then a custom rack like susky says is going to be your best bet. You can mock stuff up with bolts (look at superstrut for instance) until you get the right layout and then take it to a welder to do it right. As for the design, having the rod locker where you do (or offset to a side) is going to be your best bet. They are designed to run longways for air purposes. As long as you keep it below the height of the bronco it shouldn’t impact. Your kayak looks high on the trailer. I don’t think you’re launching with the motor down are you? If not, I’d try to get it a bit lower to buy you space. If you only need 1/4” for the fish finder I’m sure you have enough play somewhere in the setup for that. A shim or two might do it.

For casting light baits, a longer rod is going to be an asset for you. A shad rap is a bugger to cast distance because they are so light for their size. A longer rod rod is going to help you get more distance out of it. To your other question, no, they don’t just cut 6” off the rod. Can you? Sure. Most makers don’t though. When you cut a length off a blank, you slow the action. If you cut 6” off the butt of a blank you will notice a big difference.

For most of the time, I just use nail clippers. A 3 pack at your local major pharmacy chain should be $5 or so. I’ll get 2-4 years before lose them or let them get rusty. For mono and fluoro they will stay sharp forever. And I’ll even clip braid off a hook with them when I’m cutting through the knot. They aren’t great for cutting a clean tag end off a braid knot though so I separately keep a pair of these in the boat. I have a second pair in the basement with my fly tying gear that are 25 years old and still as sharp as day 1. https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Micro-Tip-Scissors-Precision-Stainless/dp/B0D1GXM1XD/ref=sr_1_23?crid=29G1WMYJBIUSD&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.jLLN73hZw020P6l_jYtnolzbUd2Q3T9G1Qz-FkGROeBMnXiI9Nn6Tw0SBQOyUVJ0LgRMU8i-8wON1_pVb5PtOeyY2_R4Tmt8hQ427Dt9DayIJ4IhkOBvMuDwLkzZk1ke2p_kYafhnW9C7Okjn5q_1Sb0lsl5VFrQ8JVGIDHGyDv-5Yn7HnY7WI8wveOI83hYuxBaEn3yshfrVsiyMsSClCeojeH0jVKWzjM4SDpLCi8TUtYQlSYMvKja3tSq9tq8crQmGe1b-Le_AeVgP4nrffvYUUSkpkI_AMhQDjdOP8M._UCDaseFTD0mEUkd4AslDgXSdWM12ZiWSpUboo23Rhk&dib_tag=se&keywords=sewing%2Bscissors&qid=1757821924&sprefix=Sewing%2Bsci%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-23&th=1

Hi all, I think a Scrounger head and trailer combo should work well for a few things in my lakes. I am going to buy some this winter for the spring. I think 1/2 +/- 1/4 is the right range for the head. it looks like there are tons of options so tell me the best and why that’s the best. thanks, rick

I’m another for a split tail most of the time. They are easy to get straight and don’t tear up bad with fish which makes it hard to keep them straight. But, it also depends a little on what spinnerbait you’re throwing and how deep you want to fish. Split tails add only a tiny amount of casting weight and basically no water resistance. If you’re fishing shallow, with willow blades, and want to slow it down, you’ll need to go light on the head weight. On the flip side, if you only have a half ounce spinnerbait and want to slow it down then a trailer with more resistance helps so a 3.3 keitech or similar is a good shout. The other to consider is just a 3” fat Albert grub. They add a lot of visual motion for no real penalty.

Ajay- I've had a few of those. You know I always razz my wife because she never checks size specs when she orders things online. And then I go and do it with lures because they look like they should work... The 13 fishing motorboat hybrid prop was one of those. I'm pretty vocal about my love for buzzbaits and I thought this would be the shiz for weedy areas. Looks great in a picture and sounds great in theory. Except the whole thing weighs about 1/4 oz and you have to throw it on tackle that I wouldn't throw into that type of cover. The blade is plastic and won't turn if it is in weeds because it doesn't have the mass to do it. And the plastic body is like a thin 5" plastic jerkbait that they've cut the tail off of so it has no action on its own. A UV speed worm is a better choice for that situation. scaleface- I too have not had a happy accident. After dumpster diving and clearance bin shopping, I've now come around to the fact that those lures are there for a reason. And if I don't know the reason and the lure in the first place, I'm not taking a swing on them. Oversstocks and odd colors? Sure. Odd lures? Nah.

TW is my standard since I can build a wishlist over time and when something critical hits I dump it all into an order. FishUSA is great also. They are based out of Erie PA and started up in the late 90's I think, primarily for the steelhead and walleye guys. Steelhead is how I got started with them since they host a forum like this one. They expanded into bass significantly and also support kayak fishing. When I was in PA still there were times that my order would arrive the next day they are that fast in getting them out the door. Good people, small business that has done well.

a dremmel and a brass wire wheel will clean up the surface. Like Alex says, make sure you're using the side of the wheel that is going away from you. For the hook but also because it is going to fling bristles. Then touch up the points with a file later.

another millenium used. I have the palma horse used as a leaner since I stand all the time, but I could even see putting it on a hydraulic pole and low enough to sit on the top of it. I couldn't get a full seat style millenium- they are so comfy I'd fall asleep. And last I checked they were a board sponsor so double whammy.

gotcha- you want to undo a plastic box. In that case, a box of ziplock sandwich baggies are going to be your best bet. They will hold for 2-3 years for sure, maybe more. That aren't perfect, but they are cheap and easy to store.