casts_by_fly

Line, lure, and gear is a negligible risk. Nets and boots (if you wade) are more so. In the UK a lot of ponds had dip stations before you could fish for this reason. They were trying to stop invasive snails primarily but the same logic applies. Anything that holds water can hold eggs or larvae. If you’re in a water body that has exotics/invasives per the state fish and wildlife commission, then take precautions. Rubber nets and boots instead of cotton and felt.

if you like humminbird and are NOT networking them, then a new explore with ml2 isn’t a bad choice. It looks like an upgraded helix and an upgraded mega live. But you won’t be able to network it with the console helix. if you’re going to have a non networked live unit then I’d go with garmin. Leave the two helixes where they are and add on a 9-12” head unit and lvs34. A 9” uhd2 and lvs34 bundle would be $2200 at TW though if you buy a gift card right now they are 10% off so right about $2k. if you like humminbird and have them networked, then it’s either a full new set with explore units and ml2 or a new helix and ml1. A helix 9 cho and ml1 unit are $1k each.

this is the correct answer for the OP specific to the gear he has. if they are G4N units then you can add mega live directly. Otherwise it’s going to take an Ethernet hub. You’ll need a cable adapter for helix units (the Ethernet plus is different from the head unit and the cable) which is about $35 last I checked. Plus the cables that come with the mega live transducer. also, a 7” screen is pretty small for a live imaging unit. So even if you have g4n units, adding mega live might not be a good choice. The easiest solution would be to upgrade the bow unit with a 9-12” cho since the cables will just plug right in that you already have (power, transducer, Ethernet if you have it). The helix models are discounted right now since they are being discontinued. adding to this setup would mean mega live 1. I’ve said before that it is the least good of the live imaging units for image quality. If you’re going to have to upgrade to a bigger helix (which is being discontinued) to add ml1 (which is inferior and being discontinued) then I would second guess that choice. A standalone garmin with lvs34 is probably a better choice to just run live imaging. you can run mega live 1 without a box. You have to have N units and not have a full network. But for a single unit you can just plug the mega live into the Ethernet port and run.

Funny enough, someone just asked me about the same rod over pm and I had to check if it was you because the thought process and questions were the same. Not sure if you saw my other comments on it further up but last year it was my 6” mag draft rod. I like the amistad better for that and I will probably set up a dedicated swimbait rod this year but as far as versatile goes the eye crosser did a great job with them, both standard and freestyle. I fished other similar swimbaits on it as well- 3/8 lead plus a 4-7” plastic. So all in, that’s topwater frogs and toads, moving baits, swim baits, and pitching with a total bait weight in the 3/4-2oz range that I used it for last year. My opinion of it as a heavier head turner is unchanged. It’s a powerful rod for sure, but to throw a full ounce you need it.

I have one in my autopilot kayak. I would struggle from may to October without it. A ninja blade and weedless wedge prop will get through most stuff. Buildup on the nose cone is a problem, especially for me where the motor is below the hull. But there is nothing you can do about that.

Only the special ones. The memorable ones for whatever reason. The 4#fish that sharked my frog on my dad’s home lake. The big spring largemouth on my own while fishing with him. The big smallie in 41 degree water. Some things imprint in your brain.

If you fish football jigs everywhere, all the time, and it’s your bread and butter technique then I can see having multiple rigged up. At some point, you figure out either the baits that work for you or the baits that work for your waters. I could see myself with three different jerk baits rigged this spring for a couple of the lakes I fish. At times in the summer I might have three different Texas rigs on at a time. If you’re a crankbait guy I could totally see a couple in the deck on the right day. Does that make the rods technique specific? For that day I guess. But then any of the three jerkbait rods I’d have rigged up would be hardbait top waters a couple weeks later (and I might have three rigged at a time).

I would say that if your intention is to use ffs as a fish catching tool then you don’t need to learn the others first. They are so different in how they work that one isn’t required for the other. That said, ffs isn’t the best for defining cover or locating fish in the first place. That’s a different skillset.

Before you start cutting, just make sure the motor has a mount adapter for your boat. Some are better than others.

Like TN boy, I’ve fished out of just about everything except for a pond prowler type. At various points my dad has owned (I have fished from) a glass boat, mod v, deep v, canoe. I’ve got the kayak myself. Each has its pluses and minuses but you asked about why not canoes. I think canoes, kayaks, and prowlers all fit the same bucket- smaller water type boats, limited range, gear carrying limitations to consider. So then comparing those, there is a ton of overlap for sure. A canoe can be a bit longer for a given weight which will give you tracking if you need it. A kayak can be more stable. A prowler needs a motor. The other can BE motorized but don’t have to be. A kayak can be pedaled so if you want non motorized but don’t want to pedal that’s a good option. A kayak will have more range. Most people won’t be able to paddle a canoe more than about 2 mph. A pedal kayak will do 4 sustainably. I see more advantages to a kayak. A 12’ pedal kayak will be more stable than a comparable canoe length. It will be heavier but not that much. It will do just as skinny of water with the drive up. And it will have more range. also, kayaks are in vogue and canoes are not. canoe vs kayak? Kayak you can stand up and fish. Want to be higher on the water? No questions.

no. That’s not going to happen.

watch glen's video for one if you haven't already. Then I'd recommend watching one for how fish finders actually work and what they are good for showing (and what they aren't good for showing). A couple basics: - A total fish finder setup means a head unit, a transducer, a mount, and a battery. - Live imaging you can be sitting still for. For basically all other bass fishing purposes you need to be moving for the fish finder to give you any type of useful image. Yes it will display an image, but its just taking repeated snapshots of what's directly below you and not a scan of the surrounding area. So keep that in mind- for your fish finder to be useful it means using it while you're paddling along ideally at a constant-ish speed. - Mega live (and live scope and panoptix) are transducers. They are live imaging transducers. Terms like mega SI/DI, triple shot, split shot, and 3-in-1 are the common names for the non live imaging transducers from the various manufacturer. - what imaging type you get will depend on what you buy. Since you mentioned ML2 I'll use Humminbird terminology (with which I am familiar). Side imaging (SI), Down imaging (DI), 2D/Chirp, and GPS are the main features in the head units as you would get them out of a box (let's leave out 360 and Live for a minute). HBird starts with Chirp + GPS. The next status up is Di which includes Chirp and GPS. Then SI includes Di, Chirp, and GPS. SI is the most fully features model. You will also see reference to Mega and '+' in the descriptions which are references to the higher frequencies available on those models and which are depenent on the transducer and not as much the head unit. If you buy a SI unit, then you will have all of the other views available as well. - Mega Live and 360 Imaging are add on transducers. In theory you could buy a control head only (no transducer) which is Si capable and add on ML/360 and in that case you would NOT have side/down imaging though your unit would be capable. You just wouldn't have the transducer for it. In practice, so long as the head unit you buy comes with a transducer then that won't happen. Now to your specifics. What do you want to do with the fish finder? what are you expecting it to do for your fishing? Those answers will inform what you need. I'm going to say that you almost certainly don't need to spend $5k and you most probably don't need 2 head units. For a kayak, the 7-9" size is a pretty big unit but still decently manageable. As you start to get bigger you start to need specialized mounts and the total weight of the head unit gets to be a lot. Even going from 7" to 9" is a huge jump in size. Bigger screens are nice if you're trying to split it 3 ways and still have a big SI or Live image. If you're using live imaging and trying to scan out to 75' in 30' of water while watching a 3" bait then a big screen would be nice. Outside of those scenarios, a 9" screen can do a ton and be very clear. You asked about vegetation. You're in CT and your waters are a lot like mine. I'm going to say that the answer to your question is 'no'- they aren't going to pick up bass in vegetation the way I think you're thinking about it. I might be interpreting you wrong, but if you have a grass bed on a big flat you're asking if it will show you were in that grass bed the fish are. The answer is no. Think of the transducer as a flashlight. From where you're sitting right now, look around the room and pick out a couple objects between you and the wall. Now shine your flashlight at the wall. The objects are clumps of grass. Do the objects block the light from shining behind them on the wall? What if there was a fish behind that object, would it be lit up with the flashlight? That's how sonar works. The beams get blocked by whatever they hit. They can't see behind objects. If the fish is in front of the grass in the open then it might be able to pick it out. If its inside the edge of the grass, then depending on how thick the grass is you probably won't see the fish. Below are two examples. the top is a split screen of down/chirp/side imaging. The second is live from the same place. That grass is 5-6' from bottom to top. Notice you can't see 'inside' of the grass in any of the images (yes, the 2D is 'hot' and could be better). There are certainly fish in there (I caught some skimming the top of it). If the grass is thinner, then you might be able to pick out fish. The image below is a pretty heavy crop from a bigger picture, but you can see the sparseness of the grass in the down imaging (blue) on the left of the image and you might be able to pick up fish in that. The heavier grass on the right (which you can see in the SI on top) you couldn't pick one out. So relying on your FF to pick up fish IN grass isn't something I would do.

What phish said for access and bearings to hit. My zillion is similar. You’ll want a needle applicator. If you dont have one, this is a quick and easy shout. Also useful for door hinges when they squeak. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KW7NA8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

about 26”. I think it’s my biggest but I have a few in the 24-26” range.

Super braid is fine. I have it on a spinning rod. I find it closer to power pro 4 carrier than 832 but it works just fine.

oh yeah, I forgot about pickerel. All of them have them. this was from the ‘best day’ noted above.

we’ve got a few pretty good mixed bag lakes here. My best day included walleye, crappie, yellow perch, white perch, smallmouth, largemouth, and a big hybrid striper. The same lake has muskies, trout, carp, cats, and other stuff. A couple of the lakes you could troll and catch lakers, browns, rainbows, smallies, largemouth, crappie, and walleye. Another one yet you’ll could get large and smallmouth, pike, crappie, hybrids, trout, white and yellow perch. Nj isn’t going to give up big numbers of 3-5lb fish but it does have the variety if you want.

you're not wrong for the most part. If you're throwing a frog to represent a frog, then a light natural and a dark natural are probably just fine. I throw black and dark brown most of the time. There are times though, that other colors are the only think they will eat. An all white at night on a full moon is a thing. Seen it too many times. And during a shad or bluegill spawn something with a little flash to it or a spot of color (like a bluegill that has rolled on the surface might flash) will do it. And don't forget, if you really want to go all out with your logic, someone makes a fluorescent pink backed frog. Bottoms in different colors but the back is bright pink to help you see it. Not the worst idea ever.

you can add protein a couple different ways. Powder like you are is one. Premade protein drinks are similar. I keep some 42g protein drinks in the house for when I feel snacky. The other option is making good food choices. If you're a 'little and often' type of eater, then things like low fat cottage cheese, low fat greek yogurt ,and other low fat dairy are good choices. You get a good hit of protein, you're having actual food with other nutrients, and you're fulfiling a 'meal' in your regular eating schedule. If you're a snacker then the same rules apply. If you're more of the 3 meals a day, no snacks, no in between, then adjusting your meal choices will help with protein intake while maintaining your total calorie intake. Chicken breast is the king of lean protein as noted. A nominal chicken breast is about 1/3rd protein by weight and not that much fat/calories. So an average 4 oz chicken breast is going to be about 40g and only 250 calories or so with around 5g fat. The same 4 oz of ground beef (80/20) is almost 300 calories, only ~20g protein, and adds an additional18g fat. And adding in a bit of precooked shredded chicken is an easy way to bulk up a meal (both physical bulk and protein). We'll throw a cup or two of shredded chicken into a pot of soup. if you're a big breakfast eater, protein pancakes are a good choice. You can get the protein powder into the pancake mix for added protein in your diet. You were going to eat the pancake already, right? Add protein.

yeah, for that level of thick I don't even both with electronics. I fish a few of those like that. If you're in the open water and fishing the edges you'd be good for either ML or 360. I think 360 would be the better choice for that specifically, but if you're also going to use it in open highlands then Mlive for the win.

how heavy? I find that in the heavy stuff I fish around here, if the fish are inside the grass or pads then I just leave ml in the truck. When the grass is a solid wall, nothing gets through it. If you’re out off the edges and there are cuts that the fish are on, then I’d think 360 is the answer.

don’t forget the cost of a charger if you don’t have one. I also went aa across the board, my camera strobes and dive lights included. Otherwise I’d have needed to pack two extra chargers on trips. This way I carry two compact 4aa chargers that use usb connections. I need 8 batteries for one full set so I carry 20 total. Running out of battery on a dive is awful because the camera turns into a water resisting paperweight you have to lug around until the dive is done. FWIW, I use Amazon basics batteries. They have 2400 mah high capacity ones. For diving I replace them annually and down cycle them to remotes, electric candles, and anywhere else not critical. But they last years.

Mike got you most of the way there. Depending on how much taper there is from butt to front of grip, you might need to build up the front grip end to match the hole diameter of the grip. For a single guide I wouldn’t bother with a rod dryer or epoxy. Just get some permagloss as your wrap finish. It’s thin and dries quickly enough to hand turn the rod.

There are a ton of salmon and trout opportunities here that you'd never think of. Atlantic salmon go into a half dozen lakes and hold over year to year. There are lake trout in a couple more. All of the lakes that have those also get stockings of rainbow and brown trout which get pelagic in those lakes. Certainly some big ones are caught every year. You're talking about lakes that go well over 100' of water and in the case of Merrill over 200'. This time of year is supposedly the best time too for shore guys because the trout/salmon will cruise up close in < 10' of water (even at round valley). In the summers they will be well offshore following bait. Last time I fished round valley I marked TONS of fish at 50-75' depth in 100-125 total fow. That's downrigger territory there. If you head over this way, drop me a line.

This backpack is sitting on its face. The part that touches your back is what opens and the hinge is the bit that would touch your belt if you were wearing it on your back. the bag is about 14" wide, 20" tall (if you were wearing it), and about 10-12" deep from your back outward. it's a big bag for sure. I've had it loaded up to 35lb or so with full lenses, housings, trays, arms, etc. I primarily only use it for diving vacations, but I took it to africa this year since I was carrying a big lens plus a couple spares. I filled the extra space with a change of clothes, valuables, and other useful travel things. In that bag you can see an underwater housing on the right (top of bag if you were wearing it). The camera and my biggest underwater lens is inside the housing. There is a small lens next to the housing (probably the 8mm fisheye). Left of the housing are 2 strobes, each about the size of a 16 oz soup can.The little black balls on the top and bottom are usually all together in one slot. They are 4-7" aluminum arms for the strobes with ball mounts on the ends. I will normally have 2 more lenses in side pockets there. What you can't see and are burried are chargers, 5-6 spare batteries, a video light, a tether, and other stuff. Then on top of that I load the tray (16" of 2" wide aluminum) and two handles (think bicycle grips) which don't disassemble. I pack it all in pretty good and use every piece of it for a dive trip. For a flash I can't help much. Underwater strobes are a different ballgame and when I carried a dslr it was nikon so I used a nikon flash. I'd find one that has full control through the camera and gives ttl metering. I know olympus had a flash that did that because they transformed it into the precuror to the strobes I have.