Steve Goldy

Ty…a very informative post! Nice when a miscalculation somehow transitions into a nice catch! Nice recoup!

This may be the determinant factor. From the many JF posts Ive read, he tends to favour FC line (at least, with spinning reels). I am using braid almost 95% of the time, when either spinning or bait casting,…as the environment where I do almost all of my fishing dictates heavy braid. Who am I to agrue???‍♂️

True enough…can’t say I wouldn’t instinctively react. So, I take it that the sacrifice of the line is a forgone conclusion? No reeling over it and trying to set it straight after dealing with the bass at hand?

If only I could claim it was my first……?

I considered this was possibility, but it’s good to know it can work if absolutely necessary. Guess it just depends on the extent of the backlash, and how badly it would affect the line retrieval.??‍♂️

Ty all for your helpful responses. Over a couple weeks of experimentation, I personally have found that the highest success rate combo I have tried so far is the weighted (1/8), EWG hook with a 4.5 paddle tail bait. I can either pull it through at a mildly brisk pace just above the worst of the salad, or drop and drag and repeat…shooting for the occasional holes in the “topscape”. Both methods have worked well so far?

Ok, what would one do in such a circumstance? I just started tossing baitcasters this season, and have really been enjoying it so far! The mechanics are fun, sort of the difference between driving a manual vs a standard transmission. More user input required, but rewarded with greater overall performance when all goes according to plan. Learning thumbing wasn’t so bad, and Im already getting to that “feathering” position (as opposed to clumsily impeding the spool with my thumb too heavily and randomly applied). Starting to feel the mechanics of the various stages of the cast, as to when to start slowly applying pressure. Man, this is fun..like perfectly matching the revs on a downshift….awesome feeling! After about 100 casts or so, only one backlash so far (AG Revo sx). No backlashes on the Shimano Antares DC and Scorpion DC…but I assume that is to be somewhat expected (although, I hear they backlash just fine if you push your luck too far…). During the time it took to clear out my backlash (wasn’t too bad, just takes some patience and the proper technique), it occurred to me that I was in an extremely compromised position, if a nice fish were to pick that exact moment in time to hit my lure. I’m sure this must have happened countless times, perhaps to some of you all? So, how did you handle the situation?

Have to say, that my caution (as stated above) has been proven to be incorrect. Upon closer examination of the manual which came with my Antares DC, the illustrations clearly show the line being tied off directly through the spool holes. There are no apparent admonishments (or, red X pictures) to indicate a caution when doing so with braid. Please do keep in mind that I don’t read Japanese. However, a picture says a thousand words… As the spool itself was a lighter metal upgrade from the previous model, it appears that my concern was entirely unwarranted. So….NM.??‍♂️?

Using Shimano JDM 150 spools (latest Scorpion/Antares DC models). Should be easily good to go for any bass, but just asking wrt/warranty.

You do raise a good point, especially when fishing for freshwater species. When facing saltwater fish, spooling out a ton of line might be more common place. With bass, no issue when using the correct line/rod for the environment. Perhaps I heard the caution against directly spooling through the spool holes when perusing saltwater databases? Possible…but I do recall it being in relation to a non sealed low profile baitcaster.

Perhaps it’s a matter of expectations? I originally had the same concerns as yourself…. that the cover did not extend all the way down the rod length. Even the higher end brands, such as “rod gloves” (as opposed to those spandex type, stretch covers), didn't seem to accommodate even basic 7’ spinning/casting rods. I soon realized that, although not covering the entire rod length, the longer, xl type covers did indeed cover the most fragile elements of the rod…those being the rod guides. If you need additional protection for your cork handles, entire reel seat, etc…you might want to consider supplemental storage additives (such as, hard shell rod cases that accommodate your entire rod length). I ended up going with a combination of the longest “Rod Gloves” possible (for my up to 7’3” rods, be they spinning/casting), coupled with the Plano hard shelled expandable rod cases. The inner rod sleeve will protect the rod within the hard shell casing, even if the casing is unlined. This is how I store/travel with my rods, and it seems to have worked fine so far.

Just wanting to clarify a nuance wrt/tying off straight braid (without backing) directly through the spool holes. I have heard, although not independently verified, that spooling any line directly through the holes in the spool may invalidate the reel warranty on some brands. Especially so on the higher end, lighter metal spools. Something to do with too much potential torsional energy being applied directly to the spool, as opposed to comparative diffusion of said forces when using backing. Any comments with relation to the above?

Funny, I’m in both camps. At least to me, what makes SMB such great fighters is their propensity to jump, lunge, shake their heads in the air, etc…it’s all about the fight, and I’m catch and release anyways. Granted, I would much prefer the fight conclude with my landing the fish…but I can still derive satisfaction from the battle alone. Still, if it were a monster, Id probably ? In fact, my most stressful time when attempting to land the SM is when Im bringing it in close to the dock. They always try and dive under the dock and between the supports/pilings. Some make many attempts before they can be properly netted. I can almost hear the line snapping with each and every attempt they make. It is during this “almost got her” stage that I find myself wishing these scrappers were a bit more sedate. Agreed, and a notable nuance.

I hear that, brother!?

I agree with your observations wrt/bass, pike, walleye sharing a common habitat. In my case, the walleye tend to be in deeper water by that time of season. Still, I am always wary of attracting pike unnecessarily. My personal experience has found that, while they still may occasionally do so, pike tend to avoid top or bottom presentations. Anytime I fish something in a suspended, mid water fashion, they hit on it mercilessly.??‍♂️I was hoping that bottom contact T-rigging might help me with the toothy critters. Otherwise, I may need to use a short wire leader which will probably screw with the action of the bait. C’est la vie! This sounds interesting. I will check it out…thanks! Spoken like a Costanza! With the rig being weightless and paired with the heavy test braid, are you primarily fishing/retrieving it along the top of the weeds? What type/size of senko are you using?

Thanks, good to know that one can get by without overly heavy artillery!

Noice tank! ??? I assume at that combined weight and salad density that you are swinging an XH rod and 50-65 lb braided line?

As above, have you experimented with T-rigged weighted hooks vs. Peg weighting a T-rigged bait on a standard EWG hook? It seems intuitive (at least to my limited brainpower?) that a weighted hook should slide through with less potential for hangups, as compared to a similar set up with a bullet weight up front. Alternatively, the shape of the bullet headed weight may allow the entire bait “package” to slip through the weeds more efficiently?

This seems to be the prevailing strategy wrt/plowing through the weeds. Heavy rod, heavy(ish) weight, heavy line for a predominately bottom contact setup. The heavy weighting allows for the terminal tackle to penetrate the salad and sink to the bottom…from there to be pulled (and sliced, if necessary) through the vegetation while dragging the bait along the bottom. I have purchased some peg-able bullet weights in anticipation of the above solution, but also have weighted hooks that allow for T-rigging. Is there a difference in performance (either hookup ratio or weedless ability) in comparing the two different techniques (weighted hook with bait vs standard baited hook with pegged bullet weight at the top)? I definitely will try this method with baited jigs, but these types of retrieval’s typically draw as much attention from Pike as with the bass. I was hoping that a more bottom based presentation would eliminate most of those unwanted hits. I only wish that this had occurred to me while I was “finger twitching” amazon in anticipation of this trip. Makes total sense, and could have saved me a bit over the course of my purchases. Oh well, lesson learned for next time…thanks for the tip!

I spend a few weeks each summer at a lake in southern Ontario. The fishing off the dock there is fantastic, but the entire surrounding area is thick with milfoil. We are not talking edges, or the occasional clear pocket….just a field of milfoil, with many areas of surface protrusion. My first year staying there, I used to try pulling lures (spinners, spoons) through the infrequent clear patches, but far too many hangups/tackle losses soon turned my fishing sessions into a frustrating ordeal instead of a relaxed outing. My catches were few and far between, and those few I pulled in were nothing to write home about. I was determined to find a method that would work for the area. My second year there, I decided to try a new (to me) technique…topwaters. I reasoned it was probably my only option, given my environment. As I became more proficient in their use, I started getting less hangups…and some huge fish? As the season ended, I was really hitting my stride and feel that at least I can always count on topwaters to produce while there. The only drawback to topwaters is that I found that for them to be at their most effective….you were stuck to fishing times of around dawn or dusk. I didnt get much action out of them during the daytime. About to begin my third year there, and I was hoping to add yet another reliable technique to my arsenal when it comes to fishing in the thick weeds (and hopefully, during the daytime). From my research, it looks as if senkos are another recommended method for heavy cover fishing. However, the various strategies for their usage tend to vary quite a bit when it comes to style (t-rig, dropshot, Carolina, wacky), line type and test (braid w/fluro leader, str8 fluro, str8 braid), rod (anything from med to H) and weight considerations (weighted or unweighted, weight type/style). I have the tackle to rig most of the above styles, in either weighted or unweighted presentations and in various hook sizes. I have the rods and reels to create almost any combination required in terms of gear ratio and rod power/taper/length. I have any and all line choices needed to support same. The one thing I don’t have is the experience to make the best selections from the above (and, from the get go) in order to optimize my initial senko experience given my specific fishing environment. The immediate area has plenty of LMB, SMB, pike and muskie (caught my PB SMB there at 6+ lbs). I primarily target LMB and SMB. The water depth (within a reasonable casting distance) is between 3-15 feet. Thick with milfoil and many areas with it bulging at the surface. Mostly soft, silty bottom. So, does anyone who uses Senkos in a similar environment care to offer any advise or insights? Any help/tips would be appreciated. I have spent much time researching this specific topic, but there is so much conflicting information online that it has me feeling like I am back to square one?

If we are talking the Kawarthas, I love Balsam Lake myself. Got my PB SM (6+ Lbs) right off a dock, in one of those weed filled bays directly across the lake from the provincial (as it begins to narrow into Gull river). LM, Walleye, Pike, Musky…great fishing overall, IMO.

If you’re talking to me…..not received??‍♂️

And…..?

The first thing I would tell someone interested in DC reels is that all DC reels are not created equal. There are various levels of the DC system (IDC4, IDC5, 4x8 DC), and they are included on various quality levels of reels (Slx, curado, metanium, antares). I am hardly an expert, having just entered the baitcasting field myself, but I have examples of each of the above DC systems and I can tell you the that there is a quantifiable performance difference from one system to the next. Generally speaking, the 4x8 system (Antares, Conquest) is the most advanced, and is included on mostly higher tier reels within the Shimano lineup. It has an internal setting for line type (with an additional mode for extra long casting), as well as 8 external brake settings to set the level of braking between lure types. The more recent versions on the 4x8 DC system don’t have an easily accessible tension knob, as they are meant to be factory set for optimal performance in conjunction with the internal line setting and external brake setting. This is the “cats meow” of the DC lineup. Next, the IDC5 system features an internal setting for line type, as well as 5 external settings of braking force. These reels feature a regular tension knob, but it is suggested that it be initially set to eliminate any side to side play in the spool and keep it there. The external dial has settings from 1-4 based on the weight of the lure you are using (heavier lure, less braking…ligher lure, more braking), and an additional setting for casting into the wind. This system is a good compromise of DC quality, as there are more overall combinations of braking force than the lower tier IDC4 system. Finally, there is the IDC4 system, which does not have any internal settings and has a standard tension knob (which also is recommended to be set just to eliminate spool side to side play). There are 4 external settings, settings 2&3 are for line type while casting in normal conditions, while setting 1 is for least brakes (heavy lures with little to no wind) and setting 4 is for most brakes (into the wind, or much lighter/less aerodynamic lures). This system is the “bare bones” version of DC technology, although many find it quite satisfactory for their purposes. Most of the above variations of the DC system have evolved over time, with minor changes within even the same DC type. Also, certain reels started with a “lower” version of DC and later where given a “higher” version over the course of time. Once you have the above sorted, you need to find the best match according to your DC needs within a certain standard of reel. Once again, generally speaking, the higher tier DC systems go to the higher tier reels (re:more expensive, although not necessarily better for your intended usage). You need to figure out the best option within each DC tier that meets your usage and budget requirements and decide accordingly. As stated above, I find the IDC 5 to be an excellent compromise and a more reasonable starting point (as apposed to a budgetary commitment to a flagship reel with DC) I enjoy all of them to various levels, but I would respectfully suggest that the better quality DC systems will most likely give you commensurate performance and pleasure. Good luck!

These would mirror my selections, except I’d go 5-6 “ on the worm. Guess we both fish a lot around heavy cover?