Bigbox99

Any 34mm spool 6:1 plastic framed baitcast reel will do. I prefer a faster ratio, aluminum frame and handle side plate with a 100mm handle. Bonus for a longer casting braking profile since I do a lot of frogging from the bank.

Wobbly drag stars can happen with the floating stars that use the spring. Its the nature of the design since the star is not captured by the threads of the handle shaft and and can be pushed off center by the spring. You don't notice it unless you slap the handle and stare at the drag star so it doesn't bother me. Make sure this spring washer is in between the handle and star with the curved ends towards the star. That's supposed to help center the star when it is pushed up towards the handle by the spring to reduce that wobble but it can still be wobbly sometimes.

Thats normal for reels with a threaded drag star. The Tatula uses a threaded nut the star can turn but the star itself is free to float on a spring and will take up that gap as the spring pushes the star against the handle. It's a cosmetic treatment to not have that gap. Also back off your drags when you are not using the reels. You'll cause the spring washers to deform and lose drag pressure on the drag surfaces forcing you to run tighter and tighter drag settings until one day its maxed out and the drag is slipping on hooksets. You'll also notice that gap on those reels with the threaded drag stars will dissappear when the drag is backed off.

Shim your knobs to remove any play assuming the knob isn't riveted to the handle.

It's a Black Max 3

Get a mountain or gravel bike. You use your legs and core to balance on the bike instead of sitting on saddle as a seat. The saddle is just there to provide some support. It's why you see riders that are real proficient in cycling will have those thin hard saddles. They never put and weight into the saddle and use their legs and core to stay on the bike. That'll get your core strong real quick.

Last time I bought one of these it was a few bucks. It's $17 with shipping now. I'd pass and just forget about it. $7.98 | Control Knobs A B U C3 C4 Mechanical Tuning Button Brake For Max3 4 Revo SeriesFishing Wheel Control Cap https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMhOm0b

The dual capacity rating might be for when only filling the spool halfway. That's a thing with the SV spools and some even have a line on the side of the spool to indicate where to stop if you want to do this. It's really only used in the Japanese fishing scene to get a smaller diameter spool to cast lighter weights. It let's you have easy spool startup inertia of a small 28 or 30 mm spool. Daiwa later made reels with spools in those diameters but the halfway line (don't know what it is actually called) is still found on some reels like the Zillion. Also based on that line on the spools in the pictures of the Alphas SV and Zillion I'd say it not a "halfway line" and more of a specific stopping point when filling the spool to get a 30mm spool. The Alphas is a 33mm spool and that line looks to be about 3mm below the spool rim on the Alphas a just a bit further down and deeper into the spool on the 34mm Zillion.

That's pretty low on the dial. Are you using spool tension on that reel?

The SV spool in the old SV Zillion was always considered to be a good caster/all arounder compared to other SV spools at the time. The going rate for a few years for one of the spools used in mint condition was $70. I actually bought a used reel from Japan as a parts reel mainly to get that spool. I use mine in a T3 MX and use the long cast mode of the 3D braking to get even more distance then put it in all around mode for normal spool behavior and skipping. I don't use the max brake setting with this spool because I can get what I need skipping wise out of it on all around mode.

At 8:47 in this video he goes over the hydrophobic coating used in Shimano baitcast reels.

Some rods are like that. The Lews 7' MH you see in a few forms in big box stores is like that. I have the Walmart Hank Parker one and it has a super stiff slow loading tip for a MH and needs 1/2 oz total weight to load the tip to cast with any accuracy. This is actually a good thing because in a sea of $50 cheap rods it's a standout as a 3/8 to 1/2 oz jig, big Texas rig, frog and even as a short punching rod. It's got all your heavy jig hook needs covered for $50 if your don't mind a shorter rod. For a stiffer tipped medium rod I would use it for weightless plastics like 5" to 6" senkos, turd baits and do a lot of skipping to shoreline. A lot of your "weightless plastics" end up being 3/8 to 1/2 oz in weight. I use my 72M gen 1 Zodias for that and it's a stiffer tipped slower loading medium powered rod that is rated down to 1/4 oz but it never sees anything wighter than a 5" senko. Also, the real soft tips on rods don't translate rod motion into hook sets as well as the stiffer tipped slower loading rods do so I also find that to be an advantage for plastics.

The Zillion TW SV shaft from the 16 Zillion SV fits all the old tatula reels and Tatula/Fuego CT reels. Platt japan would be the 1st place I would look but I don't know if it would be worth while to purchase the shaft, bolt and retainer unless you are dressing up a prized reel. For budget dress up I opt for the Aliexpress handles like the carbon handles or Gomexus. Also the Ali color parts are cheap too like spool tension knobs, screws ect. I was cheap about it and bought a used Zillion TW SV for around $70 shipped from Japan and pulled the parts I wanted off of it. I mainly wanted the spool that sold for $70 used at the time but nabbed the spool tension knob, handle shaft, handle bolt and nut retainer. I would have taken the gold colored T-wing too but I like the looks of the silver one on my red, black and silver themed Type R. The spool and spool tension knob from the Zillion TW SV ended up on this reel that I also purchased used from Japan and it came with Daiwa purple parts on it that then ended up on my Tatula HD Custom to match its purple Hyuga rod. It's an easy thing to do when you have lots of reels and buy used dressed up reels. It can get pretty expensive if you have to source everything part individually.

To service the bearing, or in the case of my Tatula Type R, to replace it with an aluminum ported short shaft version from a Zillion TW SV for a more high end look. This short shaft with the handle bolt instead of the nut was a high end treatment seen on Steez, Zillions and higher end versions of the Tatulas like the HD Custom and HRF. It also saves weight but to me it's all about that smooth high end look.

There is also a Salamandura 150 SV Boost reel on Daiwa China's site and Aliexpress. I don't know when or if the spool will be sold individually but it's something to keep an eye on. It looks like the current Tatula 100 platform in 34mm spool but with an SV Boost version of the 150 SV spool seen on the Tatula 150 SV, Coastal 150 SV and Salamandura 150 SV. Basically the deep Tatula platform SV spool but in SV Boost form.

It's similar enough. They are both magforce z Daiwas.

Because it's similarly shaped, colored and has an aluminum frame and handle side plate like the Zillion HD.

It's stiff on every reel and ties knots just fine. You just have to cut and re-tie more frequently than mono or you will suffer from "mysterious break offs" that plague fluoro users that don't.

That's exactly what I use my 1st gen Zodias 72M for and to skip docks with 12# Sniper. It's a powerful stiffer tipped medium so I can't speak to the Okuma rod. Mediums are weird. Some are just like a MH in the tips but softer deeper down and others are practically a ML. I don't have any familiarity with Okuma rods to say. Worst case scenario you hope it's works out for what you want but have a plan b use for it if it is too soft for weightless plastics and light T rigs such as a jerkbait rod or treble hook topwater rod.

Can't find any of their products scrolling Ali but here is their store. It appears they are doing some shuffling of products and prices all over Ali so maybe they will return. https://a.aliexpress.com/_mqnBqTt

Artsea on Aliexpress. It's the poor man's Zillion HD handle. I have one on a Tatula 80 which is now the poor man's mini Zillion HD. The only negative is the harsh 90° angle in the carbon that can scrape the skin of your knuckles but that doesn't happen with these knobs because of the way these long knobs keep your hand from rotating over and extending your knuckles aggressively cranking on the handle. Still a minor gripe that they didn't sand the edges even if it is a non issue with these knobs. Basically they are long anti-knuckle buster type power knobs on a handle that would be really crappie if you busted knuckles on it.

Thats an odd one and a facinating outlier to me. It sounds like the reels don't like your casting stroke? Hard to say. I could write off one of the dynamic brake reels as a sticky inductor or broken inductor base ramp but not with all 3 or 5 of them you have this issue with. I've always heard Daiwas don't like a snappy cast but that's how I cast and have no issues with the braking profile of any reel from any brand I have gotten into my hands. Zero spool tension on all of them too. I swing, the rod loads, the bait flies and spool spins, it doesn't backlash mid cast, then I apply pressure to the spool to slow and stop it as the bait nears the water. The closest thing I have to an issue with the braking profile of a reel is with unconditioned fluoro on SVS Shimanos and some reels with small and or close level wind in pound tests greater than 12#. They want to backlash at the end of the cast with faster spool speeds of the Shimanos or poor line flow from the reels with the tiny level wing openings. You can use use spool tension to slow the spool but I feel as if that free casting nature is the whole appeal of them and would be a shame to ruin it when I have other reels that can handle that line without issue. The Tatula 300 is especially puzzeling because that one isn't even a dynamic brake reel. It's a linear mag brake reel and has no moving parts on the rotor. Braking force increases with spool speed in a linear curve (hence the name). That reel in particular is well liked for its braking profiles ability to reduce helicoptering of glide baits. It's a more control focused braking profile for massive plastic lines and wonky helicoptering baits. The 300 is a middle of dial setting, 20# Big Game (30# fluoro diameter) and 3 to 5 oz glides reels for me. Same as my Lexa 300. If you're running braid at a low brake setting and living on the ragged edge of its controlable braking profile then I can see you having issues. To me, it sounds like you're trying to use the reel for something it's not well suited for and you are getting hiccups in its behavior from that. If I had to guess I suspect your issues with Daiwas stemms from running too low a braking setting that blacklashes when you put a little too much into the cast or your braid gets soaked with water. There are guys that live at that ragged edge on Daiwas that have the brake set no higher than 6 and go as low as 1 or 0 and they swear by it. These guys all palm while casting and do what I consider lob casting. I'm a power caster and live in the middle of the dial rarely going below 6 and up to max on skips frequently. I get mid cast backlashes going below 6 on my reels including SV spools.

Sounds like broken Tatula BF reels to me with the grinding noise and brake behavior. If you still had them then I'd say follow the brake troubleshooting advice above. When the magnet gets loose it aligns itself to max brake and ignores the dial setting. This can also cause the spool rotor to rub on the magnet since it free to flop about and only loosely contained by the magnetic field of the larger magnet ring. That line gap shouldn't be happening unless there is a flaw in that reel. I'd stay away from the Tatula BF just because of that and opt for the Alphas Air, Shimano BFS or the Tatula 80 with Aliexpress BFS spool. That gap in your photo is visibly large and able to swallow 7# non-braid. That's a red flag to me that there is a design or assembly issue with the Tatula BF 70. It's on the plam plate side as if the reel uses a smaller diameter spool for the BF model and a brake housing for a larger diameter Tatula 80 spool was used making a large gap. Thats either an assembly issue, the tech fitted the wrong magnet holder when it was in for service or a design flaw in all Tatula BF 70s. Anyways my personal recommendation for a BFS reel for 1/10 Ned heads and other baits in > 1/8 oz total weight up to 3/8 oz would actually be a Gekabijin with a Ray's Studio Long Cast 28mm spool with the SV brake. I've heard absolutely phenomenal 1st hand reports about that reel and spool pairing for baits in that range and should be similar to my old favorite for those baits, the Pixy Airy Red. The SLX 70 MGL would also make for a killer budget option if skipping isn't a priority.

Something is wrong with the reel if you can cast at brake setting of 0. Either the magnet rings are broken and snapping to the max brake setting, what you think is 0 is actually max on the dial (turned it the wrong way) or are using spool tension. Remove the side plate and turn the brake dial and observe the magnet rings. The ring should rotate clockwise and counter clockwise with the dial movement. If the rig rotates then jumps to align the two lines on the rings then it has come lose from the adjustment mechanism and is magneticly aligning to the max brake setting making the dial settings non functional.

Think of it like a poor handling sinking mono that has increased abrasion resistance and slack line sensitivity but you have to cut and re-tie often because it has "poor knot strength" (deformes and weakens easily at the knot over time).