nycgrip

this would be the least expensive inflatable i would recommend. https://www.seaeagle.com/MotormountBoats/SE8 have a different boat from the same company and the material is near impossible to pierce.

heres my sea eagle foldcat 325, you can say i trust the material.

dig this part out of your control head. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MINN-KOTA-2064028-FORWARD-REVERSE-SWITCH-5-SPEED-COMBO-/191476935652?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item2c94ea2be4&vxp=mtr or get an electronic speed control with power modulation, it will give you infinite speed control instead of 5 speeds and should conserve on battery draw. you run the box between battery and motor, and then run a little control knob where ever you want. this is to give you an idea whats out there, you may want to find a cheaper one with less capacity and will do reverse. http://www.ebay.com/itm/100A-10-50V-12V-24V-current-limited-DC-motor-PWM-speed-controller-waterproof-/181648888862?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a4b1e141e

i had a similar problem but on my negative post. my problem was a poor soldering job on the wire to the lug. cut it off and did a proper job on the connection. if thats not your issue get a tube of this and apply a lot on the terminals, it will prevent any arcing that could be happening and will protect the connection. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL8VD2/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

no trailer, takes about 30 minutes to put together.

my modified sea eagle fold cat.

thanks. it takes about a half hour for build or take down. motor has a quick release that makes it faster than the transom one to attach or remove. ive tried to build it to keep build times down, seat just drops in faster than the old method, bundled wires, and quick connections, and graph just drops into ram mount. yeah the graph is a bit overkill, but i needed to upgrade my 798 to something with ethernet. looked at 798hd and 998hd initially, but then saw this store demo model 1198 on ebay starting at 1500 and watched it. in the last minute put in a bid for 1666 and got it for 1625, which is less than what i saw used ones sell for. was concerned the screen might have scratches and burn in issues but that was not the case. outside the head unit or bracket everything was new and in plastic, and because its bought from the store i still have the warranty, and the 1 year extension for it being a select unit. between the resale value of my 798 (550) and the selling price of the 1198 in a year (atleast 1000), and if i sell the gps puck (100) i pretty much get to use it till the next models come out for next to nothing. until i start losing stuff off the side gonna keep as is, more parts add to build and tear down times. but will be securing batteries with a safety to one of the planks so if one toon deflates the batteries will still be attached and salvageable, this is unlikely to happen as this material is bomber(hi nsa) but better safe than polluting and fined. heres the missing pic from original post that shows the fixed rudder.

read this thread first to see how this project started out. i would of continued this topic in that thread but it is archived. http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/24455-manhattan-boat-project-foldcat/ every time i took this boat out, i would come up with an improvement. some took longer to implement than others. one of the biggest issues was tracking, when going straight the boat would much of the time need to be pointing off 45* in one direction and the motor 45* in the opposite direction, this obviously would not do. i needed something like a fixed rudder to help it track. living in NYC making anything is not easy without access to a proper shop (for most of you a garage or yard) so i would need to find find something and adapt it. came up with the idea of using a skimboard, flat except for the tip, slim and treated for use in water. sawed the tip off, and used an old clamp from a transducer set up to make it attach to the boat, this alone improved performance ten fold. added the transducer and gps on top of each other to increase mapping accuracy. the other addition to help with tracking was a 24v 80# terrova ipilot link. a little much for the boat, but i was draining a single battery with the 12v setup with my 12 hour outings , and if im gonna carry two batteries i might as well go with 24v. speed wise i only gained 1mph, i guess this is where the laws of diminishing returns kick in, the added weight of battery and heavier motor negate most of the added thrust. but the autopilot on the motor is the final nail in the coffin for the tracking issues, this motor takes care of that and more. will also be shortening the shaft by a foot or so when the warranty runs out. another great addition was the mantis umbrella set up, a bit pricey for what it is, but performs exceptionally well with my set up. its there when i need it for rain or sun, and out of the way when i don't. can sit and cast fine and can even stand flip the seat around and extend it and still be covered, and does not hinder casting in the least. can even close half of it if i want to overhand cast. also makes a decent camera mount. was also able to use the seat mount adapter to rig out an aluminum bar that holds the ram mount for the humminbird unit, so it spins with seat. i upgraded the hbird (previous unit didnt have ethernet to communicate with terrova) and moved it off the cooler setup and using a ram mount and a little rigging, attached it to the side of the seat, kind of gives it that whole star trek captains chair feel, and opens up the space for the rods. for the rods i used a bac rac, which helps keep the gear secure, elevated off the boat (lessens boat rash), and easily accessible. now i just need to wait for lakemasters autochart to come out so i can map the lakes i fish, and make full use of the terrova and hbird link combo. next upgrade, a better seat. add a tackle bag and lunchbox, and good to go. note the umbrella in stowed position. just a nice magic hour shot while dismantling.

The 1016 or sv spool will be better for pitching. I switched to 90mm handles and they didn't look right with the silver axels showing through the knob, so I put my red knobs on cause it looked better, original knobs where fine otherwise. FYI where the spools of the t3(1016) and t3sv (1000sv) are interchangeable, the t3air spool is not compatable with other reels.

using it with light line, and lures it works beautifully, but does not perform as well with lures over 10g, or heavier line. use it for the techniques its meant for and you'll love it.

so for the past few years these were my setups, 5 steez reels, 2 px type r, a t3, and a metanium dc7, on steez rods. sold off the reels for this new set. Kistler LTX Helium II 7' M, T3AIR 8.9L, 6# Sunline Shooter Invis Floro; Finesse Plastics Steez Megatop 6'10" ML, T3AIR 8.9L, 6# Sunline Shooter Invis Floro; Neko, Drop shot, Shakey Steez SVF 6' M, T3SV 6.3L, 8# Sunline Super Natural Mono; Topwater, Jerk baits Steez SVF 7' MH, T3SV 8.1L, 12# Sunline Shooter Invis Floro; Weighted Plastics, Spinnerbaits Steez Compile-X 7'1" H, T3SV 8.1L, 12# Sunline Shooter Invis Floro; Jigs Steez Fle-x-Lite 7' M, T3 7.1L (SV Spool), 12# Sunline Shooter Invis Floro; Crankbaits Steez Fle-X-Lite 7'2" MH, T3 7.1L (SV Spool), 12# Sunline Shooter Invis Floro; Big/Deep Crankbaits Steez SVF-XBD 7'4" XH, T3SV 8.1L (1016 Spool), 65# Sunline FX2 Braid; Frogging, Alabama rig

thats some good work right there.

i got this dehooker specifically for this problem, gets the hook out quickly and easily. http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/99251-great-dehooker/?hl=%2Bdehooker

goto amazon and type in water shoes, you will find a tremendous variety to choose from.

Had similar problem, had a cold solder on my negative lug, and it got real hot on the lug and first few feet of wire. Redid the solder and used dieletic grease at the connection and highly recommend. http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348196901&sr=8-1&keywords=dielectric+grease

My comment refers to this, not the all star event. Ike has done a great job of branding himself, with a book and several articles about himself its quite easy to find out alot about him, probably one of the most written up about bass anglers out there of recent times.

i would suggest skipping ike, only because there is book out about him, and several articles. maybe ish monroe, or one of the japanese just for diversity.

i use this http://www.cabelas.c...80;cat104505480 cut the hook and avoid further trauma to the fish, it sucks doing it on tungsten weighted hooks but oh well. and use this for gut hooked fish http://www.cabelas.c...80;cat104505480 it flips the hook 180 and makes it easy to get out.

I had this problem yesterday. This one nest had a log right next to it, If I could see the fish it wouldnt bite, I stepped further back so the log blocked my view of the nest waited 5-10 minutes and cast, and it bit. I never bought into the fish seeing you but now I'm rethinking that.

you gotta ask your self what do you want out of the line. manageability? that would be a seagaur product (invisx, tatsu) but expect stretch, and not great sensitivity but better than mono. do you want low stretch and high sensitivity? that would be sunline shooter or toray upgrade. but that stuff is stiff, springy and pricey. every thing else will be an in between of those bookends. with bps 100% probably a happy medium. its an expensive quest you are about to start on finding the right floro for you. hopefully you will be happy with your first choice.

this has been working great for me.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Fish-...h-All+Products after having to deal with too many deep hooked fish last year, i was searching for a solution that worked. i had seen several versions of this tool but it didn't sound so special till i read a review about how it turned the hook. i ordered it to see if it works and it does so far. have used it on two fish and it released a deep hooked and a gut hooked fish easily with minimal damage. it has an angled tip thats hard to see in the product photos but as you tighten the claw it pulls the hook along this lip and rotates around almost on the axis of the hook. i did a video to kind of show what i mean. seems well made and durable and recommend it.

avoid sinking lines around lillies. the line will sink into the lower parts of the plants and get caught up under the pads and kill the action if not tangle. first hand experience from last season. i would stick with floating braid. i was even using 832 and having problems but was much worse the few times i tried floro.

I used 832 last season for frogging and didn't lke it one bit. The line sinks on pauses and will get cought up in the underwater branches of the lillies and be hard to pull throught if not snagging, forcing you to go in there and free it up. My recommendation, stick to floating line for frogging in pads.

Have you hooked a fish with it yet, if I remember correctly, it stretches like a rubberband.