The Next KVD

x4 for the Shimano Sahara. I use the 4000 size for 3 reasons. 1) balances the rod out better, 2) The larger spool helps the line from getting alot of memory especially fluorocarbon, 3) because of #2 I seem to get just a tad more distance on a cast.

I can't buy a bite on a 1.5 but the 2.5 for some reason just flat out catches fish for me.

Forget Fireline all together and get either Power Pro or Suffix 832.

Definately a work of art and I can truly respect that!

Only thing at my wallyworld was Berkley Trilene 100% Fluorocarbon was $2 off. Wouldn't be so bad if it was a) my line brand and it was 200yd spools and not the 110yd spools. Congrats on the deal though!

I throw big swimbaits on 25lb Trilene Big Game mono because I braid to me often gets hung up on a hook somewhere but Trilene Big Game is stiff enough to stay away from the hooks On smaller swimbaits like hollowbelly baits I throw them on 17lb fluoro just to help get them down deeper and stay there.

LOTS OF PRACTICE!!! SERIOUSLY!!! For me it consists of a loose spool tension and very little brake and all about thumb control. That and the right setup. My best dock skipping setup is a 6'10" heavy Falcon Cara with a Shimano Curado 200B. Baits that are 3/8 oz also seem to skip the best atleast for me.. But I cannot stress PRACTICE and through trial and error you will find out what reel settings work for you. Everyone is a bit different.

First off WELCOME to the BEST SITE EVER CREATED!! Well, everyone is going to have their own opinions on what is best. It took me a long time to figure out what works for me and what does not. But I'm more than willing to help you on some recomendations. Fishing Line: Sunline FC Sniper, Berkley Big Game, PowerPro braid, and Berkley Trilene XL covers my line that I use on a consistant basis. Soft Plastics: PowerTeam Lures has some very cool stuff and you cannot go wrong with most Berkley products especially their 7" PowerWorm Crankbaits: I really rely on two brands; Rapala makes some quality stuff at a reasonable price (DT series, X-rap, ShadRap),and Strike King has some really realistic looking colors at prices that you would expect to pay for Lucky Craft. Hope this helps point you in the right direction. This site is awesome and the guys here are EXTREMELY helpful.

Tough to pin anyone thing down so: Twin Power Poles 109lb Motorguide Shimano Chronarch B's St.Croix Legend Elite rods (Custom made) Braided fishing line Tungsten sinkers Without anyone of these things I'd be lost but of that group if I had to pick just one item it would be the Powerpoles.

Almost as bad as a Carrot Stix. Broke one afer 2 trips, got a replacement and broke that one the next time out. Sent it back with a note saying I want my money back. I did and went out and got a St.Croix SCV blank to build on.

A FC coated line generally is going to float a little bit. The coating is going to keep the line from absorbing water, will keep the line from deterating from UV rays, and help with abrasion resistance which will mean it will last longer. However, its been my experience that is not quite the case because as you cast the line gets scratched just by going through guides and obviously the normal abrasion from line coming in contact with underwater objects. Overtime the line will absorb water and the sun will start to effect it although it happens at a slower pace than straight mono. I will say that it does help with the sensativity of the line but its still nothing like straight fluoro or braid.

I'm doing fine with the 7'3" MH Veritas. Not a bad rod, just that I'm transitioning everything over to custom built high end St.Croix SCV blanks (Legend and Legend Elite rods). I just have a hard time putting the super sensative Legends down and picking up the Veritas. Before I got into the SCV blanks though the Veritas was the cats MEOW for me.

I'd like to see Shimano bring back the Chronarch B series but with less weight without sacrificing the solid feel of the all aluminum reel. The profile of that reel really fits my hands just PERFECT and the COLOR is just down right SICK!

65lb PowerPro for umbrella rigs, frogging, and heavy matt vegetation 50lb Sufix 832 for flipping, docks, and Carolina Rigs 25lb Trilene Big Game for flipping when I think the fish are pressured 20lb Trilene Big Game for Buzzbaits 16lb Sunline Sniper FC for Spinnerbaits, casting jigs, football jigs 14lb Sunline Sniper FC for Senko style baits and squarebill crankbaits 14lb Trilene XL for Topwater 10lb Sunline Sniper FC for Crankbaits and jerkbaits 10lb Sunline Sniper FC for T-Rigs 10lb Trilene XL for jerkbaits in cold water when fluorocarbon makes the bait sink instead of suspend 7lb Sunline Sniper FC for Finesse fishing 4lb Sunline Sniper FC for really finesse situations

X3. But thats what you get for it not being a St.Croix. lol. jk. Should ask them for two 7'11" rods next time plus two matching revos just incase one of the two they ship back is still has a quality issue.

All rods have atleast a very slight bend. Ask any rod builder and they will verify that. Its not quite as noticable on mid to high end rods.

Good line for mono. I have used it in 10,14, and 17lb test and never had an issue. Cast great and have yet to have a breakoff due to the lines fault. Due to my love of sensativity while fishing with fluorocarbon, I don't use Excel much with the exception of topwater/buzzbait and shallow crankbait and spinnerbait applications. Another downfall is its made in China over the made in USA of Trilene.

I know your pain living in your neighboring state. To me $40 at the end of the year is worth the cost of getting better performance out of my baits and increase number of bites by just tying my line direct to the bait. Just retie often. I've caught plenty of pike up to 20lbs on crankbaits with 10lb fluorocarbon. I've seen a huge reduction in the number of bites I get with steel leaders and similar products and I believe it is because it effects lure action and perfomance.

umm whats so hard about this?? Just grab the tag end and pull tight and snip it with a regular pair of scissors. I just use the ones that I get at walmart for $2 and they do the job great with no frays. If you do start getting frays just replace the scissor.

Mine is not the Reaction. This thing is an absolute workhorse. It has a unbelievable amount of power to overpower fish and get them out of the thickess stuff you will be able to find yet the tip is not so stout that it makes it hard to throw lighter stuff. I've thrown everything from 3/8oz jigs, big 2oz tungsten weights w/ crawtubes, and have even used it as a umbrella rig rod. Its an extremely versitle rod and my only regret is not getting another one or two. Only real complaint is I don't care for the hook keeper, I prefer one that is a little bit more "open".

I'm not really a fan of fiberglass crankbait rods mainly due to the lack of sensitivity. I use a St.Croix Avid Crankbait which is graphite but has a moderate action which basically acts like fiberglass but has all the sensitivity and lightweightness in the world. Also not many companies produce fiberglass rods anymore but if your deadset on Fiberglass, St.Croix has 2 of them in their Mojo Bass lineup.

Punching: Shimano Cumara 7'7" Heavy (3/4-3 oz rating) Shimano Chronarch 100BPV w/ 65lb PowerPro Moss Green Heavy Flip: 7'11" custom built St.Croix Legend, Shimano Chronarch 100BSV w/ 65lb PowerPro Moss Green Mod. Cover Flip: 7'6" custom built Kistler Helium, Shimano Citica 200E w/ 7.1:1 gear upgrade w/ 50lb Suffix 832 Light to Mod. Flip: 7'3" custom built GLoomis IMX, Shimano Citica 200E w/ 7.1:1 gear upgrade w/ 20lb Berkley Trilene Big Game

I'd rather get a Chronarch but th gen 3 STX in that 8.1:1 or something like that has me intriqued. Thats some serious line recovery at 35 IPT!!!!

The shooter from what I've read is the most abrasive resistant fluoro out there. That unfortunately comes at the expense of handling abilities which is why most use it for flipping.

I make my own for about $2 a piece out of JB Waterweld and surveyor flags. Youtube has plenty of videos on the subject although some are better than others.