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Strike King Red Eye Shad Lipless Crankbaits

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Completely new to the crankbait world. Just picked a couple out at a local bait and tackle store here in Fayetteville, NC. Got some tips from friends on the forums on how to retrieve, when to use, and where to use them. Now I need help on line and knots to use. I heard 10-17lb mono is normally standard for these, but I'm open to any adv.

 

-Thanks!

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I use 12-15lb Fluoro and tie with a San Diego Jam knot. YouTube the knot, it is really easy to tie and very durable.

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Bad experiences with mono I take it?

 

I use 12-15lb Fluoro and tie with a San Diego Jam knot. YouTube the knot, it is really easy to tie and very durable.

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Bad experiences with mono I take it?

No not at all, I just prefer stronger lines and Fluoro sinks.  I only use mono for jerkbait and treble top water baits. I use braid on 80% of my set ups.

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I've had bad experiences with braided line. Palomar, and Uni Knot have both failed me. Don't know if I didn't cinch it down good enough, but I was fishing a carolina rig and lost all four rigs when I casted them out. Knots just came loose. Was using Stren Sonic Braid 30# with Stren 17lb Fluro Leader. 1/2 ounce weigh. So nothing heavy. Love the sensitivity. Just can't afford to keep losing lures. Haha

 

No not at all, I just prefer stronger lines and Fluoro sinks.  I only use mono for jerkbait and treble top water baits. I use braid on 80% of my set ups.

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I use 16# Fluoro. I've also use 12# copoly. I just prefer fluoro.

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Lots of line types, and pound tests, will work fine with lipless cranks - sorta depends on whether you're in open water, ripping in grass, rod power, weight of the bait, depth, etc.  For general purposes, I usually use 10lb Yo-Zuri Hybrid with 1/2oz and 5/8oz baits. It works, brings in fish...

 

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I've had bad experiences with braided line. Palomar, and Uni Knot have both failed me. Don't know if I didn't cinch it down good enough, but I was fishing a carolina rig and lost all four rigs when I casted them out. Knots just came loose. Was using Stren Sonic Braid 30# with Stren 17lb Fluro Leader. 1/2 ounce weigh. So nothing heavy. Love the sensitivity. Just can't afford to keep losing lures. Haha

No offense but if braid and Palomar are failing you, you're not tying it right. I've yanked tree limbs down using 8lb braid. Maybe practice a little more tying knots. Plenty of videos out there to show correct knot tying.

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14lb. Trilene XT in general. I might drop down to 12lb if I'm fishing more open water.

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Being that I only have 2 setups, I use 10-12 pound mono for pretty much everything (including lipless cranks).  I've only used BPS Excel, Berkley Trilene, and Spiderwire.  Of those 3 Spiderwire seems to be the most sensitive and its really hard to break.  As for knots I always use the improved clinch knot.  I know how to tie a palomar but for me, I feel like the improved clinch is easier.

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TWM, you will love crankbait fishing. It is a lot of fun and if you are attention deficit like me it is one of the best techniques to keep you in the game at all times.

 

Here are some tips for you, as usual from me, by the numbers.

 

1.  Get a "crankbait specific" baitcasting rod. The Bass Pro Shop Cranking Stick baitcasting rod is outstanding.

2.  Get any other brand of "cranking specific" rod. Just be sure it is for crankbaits.

3.  Use either mono or fluorocarbon line. In the old days the pros would use mono for all treble hook baits. Today that thinking has changed and the pros are using fluorocarbon. Remember, fluorocarbon line sinks while mono floats.

4.  The lighter the line test the deeper the crankbait will run. Consider your casting distance. Once the crank hits the water and you start your retrieve it will take some time for the crank to reach the desired depth. Fluorocarbon line helps the crank get down and stay down.12 pound test should be your minimum and 17 pound test is a good choice depending on how fast you want the crank to hit its desired depth.

5.  Read the "cranking specific" rod's parameters and always stay within them.

6.  Sweep the rod to the right or left when setting a treble hook. Do not rip the rod over your head. Just move the rod tip to the right or left in a swinging motion.

7. ALWAYS HAVE NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS TO REMOVE THE TREBEL HOOKS.

8.  Take your group health insurance card with you if you don't have needle nose pliers so you can get into the emergency room to have the treble hooks removed from you hands.

9.  Remove the stock hooks and replace them with one size larger Mustad Wide Gap ripple Grip treble hooks, #36233BLN. Learn how to use a split ring pliers to do his on cranks and other baits.

10. Create a storage system for your cranks. Some guys do it by color while others do it by depth. I do it by color first and depth second.

11.  Consider using a snap to change crankbaits fast and easy. Pro's trick.

12. Use a Palomar Knot when tying the snap to your line.

13. When fishing around and in grass remove the rear treble hook. It reduces the snags. (Kevin VanDam suggestion)

14. Use the crankbait as a "search bait" to find the bass. Once you find the bass you can continue with your crankbaits or throw plastics.

15. ALWAYS CHECK YOUR LINE FOR NICKS, SCRAPES, CUTS, ABRAISIONS WHEN THROWING A CRANKBAIT. Cut out the damaged line and retie.  Run the line through your thumb and forefinger and over your thumbnail.

16. Always retie after two or three caught fish.

17. Use the net when boating the bass. Be extremely careful if you put your fingers in the bass' mouth along with the treble hooks. See # 7 and #8 above.

18. Add a dab of bright orange nail polish to the underside of the crankbait and cover it with the clear nail polish to help protect it. Seems to attract strikes. Not a big dab, but a little one is all you need. Pros' trick.

19. Read, read and read some more about crankbaits and the colors to use in different water clarities and temperatures. Watch the Sunday bass fishing TV shows. Look for DVDs on crankbaits. Check out YouTube for crankbaits.

20. Wide wobble in warmer waters and tight wobble in colder water.

 

Now that you have some basic information you can read and watch DVDs and bassresource productions and broaden your horizon regarding crankbaits.

 

One more small suggestion. Get a Bass Pro Shops and Cabala's catalog and read what is published about the different crankbaits on the market. You can use the inexpensive Bandits or go with the more expensive Strike Kings. Only problem is that the bass don't get to read the advertising so they will hit any crankbait you throw, cheap or expensive.

 

Have fun and let us know how you do and how many you lose in the trees, bushes, docks, piers, wood, brush, etc.

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TWM, as usual - a follow-up.

 

Always check the head of you lipless cranks for their profile.

 

If you fish in grass you want a lipless crank that can go through the grass with the lowest amount of grass and slop being picked up.

 

When you go to your favorite tackle store or look at the catalogs check out the front of the lipless cranks. Compare them with the Bill Lewis Rat-L-Traps to see what I mean.

 

The Red Eyed Shad and the Cotton Cordell's are created to pick up less debris.

 

So look at the front of the lipless cranks to note their profile.

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What type of technique should I be using. I'm bank fishing, so I'm gonna be cranking from the middle of the pond back towards me. 

TWM, as usual - a follow-up.

 

Always check the head of you lipless cranks for their profile.

 

If you fish in grass you want a lipless crank that can go through the grass with the lowest amount of grass and slop being picked up.

 

When you go to your favorite tackle store or look at the catalogs check out the front of the lipless cranks. Compare them with the Bill Lewis Rat-L-Traps to see what I mean.

 

The Red Eyed Shad and the Cotton Cordell's are created to pick up less debris.

 

So look at the front of the lipless cranks to note their profile.

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don't just aimlessly cast the lipless bait out into the middle and reel back. find some sort of cover like tall grass or logs sticking up near shore or out in the pond. rip the bait through the grass, bump it, cause some sort of commotion that gets some sort of a reaction strike. you can by all means just toss the bait and reel it in and you will catch the occasional fish or two but you will have better luck pinpointing specific pieces of cover, throwing past it and bringing the bait through it/over it/into it.  

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Try throwing ahead of you, parallel with the bank. Especially if there is grass out from the bank a few feet. I like to keep the bait just on the outside edge of grass like this. Usually there is some type of depth change where the weeds stop. Good luck, I know I almost always have a lipless bait tied on, and catch a ton of bass on them. Also, be ready to loose some fish, that's part of the game with these baits. Go get em! 

 

Jim

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Try throwing ahead of you, parallel with the bank. Especially if there is grass out from the bank a few feet. I like to keep the bait just on the outside edge of grass like this. Usually there is some type of depth change where the weeds stop. Good luck, I know I almost always have a lipless bait tied on, and catch a ton of bass on them. Also, be ready to loose some fish, that's part of the game with these baits. Go get em! 

 

Jim

Also be ready to lose some baits.  I think I lose more lipless cranks than any other type of lure.  I guess its in the nature of the bait.  Sinking treble hooked lure and all that.  But they do catch some nice fish.

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Lastly - invest in a plug knocker or make one.  Anyone who fishes moving baits around cover can tell you how invaluable this little accessory can be.  May not seem like a big deal when tossing about $2 Wallie World Cotton Cordell or Rebel clearance CBs, but tie on a Lucky Craft, Koppers Live Target, some of the JDM cranks, etc. and you could have mild cardiac palpatations when one becomes snagged and the hooks don't budge or bend.......

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