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rockchalk06

Preferred Fluoro Pound Test For Medium To Shallow Cranking

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I've been debating, going back and forth etc on what to use for cranking. Braid or fluoro. I've been using braid for the last year or so and want to try fluoro now.

I'm curious to see what is the prefered pound test. I rarely use cranks that run below 10 feet. I run Squarebills 90% of the time when cranking. I just bought a spool of 20# Tatsu to test out on my jig rod and thought about giving it a shot. I've seen Horton and Clunn, both talk about running 20# for Squarebills around timber etc.

I also have some 14# XPS fluoro.

Thanks in advance

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I have been using Red Label 15# this season. It has served me well and I have no complaints. I think 12 to 15# would be ideal. I rarely fish deep cranks much like you. Mostly squarebills.

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The Tatsu is fine, but I would save it for your jig and/or soft plastics rigs.

I'm running 20# Kanzen on one shallow crankbait combo and REALLY

like it!

 

 

 

:fishing-026:

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I fish anything from 10-25 for squares.  Anything more than that gets 10lb. 

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10lb or 12lb for Medium divers.  15lb  for square bills or other shallow runners. 

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I use 12 lb, but I use an all around cranking stick and don't crank too much heavy cover. If I did, I'd probably go 15lb.

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15# fluoro for squarebills that has better abrasion resistance.  most mid range fluoros handle pretty well after you get the hang of it so abrasion resistance is something I look for first with fluoros for squarebills when i pick from certain brands i use. Tatsu is a great line but I would personally only use it for bottom contact baits due to its price. I liked red label but ultimately gave it up due to it's very poor abrasion resistance and the zebra muscles and wood I fish frequently just eat it up. There's also nothing wrong with a good abrasion resistant mono if you are sticking to shallow cover. it's more buoyant and keeps the bait up a little.

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14/15 minimum, 20 maximum. 17 is a happy medium (if you can find it in fluoro locally). 

 

I fish squarebills on 17# mono for three reasons. 

1. It has stretch so if I do happen to snag it up in brush I can usually slingshot it out without having to drive in and ruin the spot. 

2. I throw them in some nasty stuff (broken concrete, rebar, and timber) so I am retying about every 10-15 minutes or so, cutting a foot off at a time. Fluoro would be very expensive taking off that much line each day for the very little benefits in my situation. 

3. It floats. So when you hit a stick in a brush pile you can stop and the bait will float right up over it and you can continue your retrieve. Will work also with fluoro, but if you have a heavy fluoro it will try and keep the bait down and it will not rise as quickly. 

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10# big game mono on one, and 12# yo zuri on another

 

 

 

 

Mike

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When I fish with  squarebill crankbaits I use mono and a glass rod....I use to use a graphite rod......(not anymore with this set-up) when I changed over, my hook-set ration went way up......the mono along with this rod gives a lot ,so when the fish hits the lure there is a lot of give  This gives the fish time to get the bait more in his mouth and keeps you from setting the hook to quick....makes a big difference  between just missing and bring the big guy in the boat.....I use FC on other set-ups great line....

 

P.S.... I always change out my hooks on my crankbaits...use KVD treble hooks.....super sharp.... love them...

 

Tight lines...Guys

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10lb or 12lb for Medium divers.  15lb  for square bills or other shallow runners. 

 

+1

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The Tatsu is fine, but I would save it for your jig and/or soft plastics rigs.

I'm running 20# Kanzen on one shallow crankbait combo and REALLY

like it!

:fishing-026:

Thanks. I just read a ton of reviews on the Kanzen and I'm kinda worried. Did Seaguar revamp the line recently?

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I've been using 12lb suffix siege because I have an all round 705cb rod. Also, suffix has a breaking strength higher than it's rated test. It's abrasion resistant and supple...great all round mono

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