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Losing Bass With Light Texas Rig

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Hey guys, how can I keep bass from throwing my light texas rig with a  finesse worm on it? Do I need to just set the hook harder? I am afraid I  will break my line if I set it to hard.

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What kind of line are you using? Try unpegging the weight if its pegged

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If you set your drag right you wont break the line. Set the hook hard the first time and if it breaks then make the drag looser,and keep doing that until you are confident that it wont break off even with a hard hook set!

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I was using 8 pound test p-line fluroclear. I was fishing it unpegged.

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What hook are you using, exact size and number, and what soft plastic.

Tom

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If you fear breaking line try braid.  The hookset is the key, if well hooked you shouldn't lose too many, that said there isn't a person in the world that lands them all.  I lose bass, other species too, mostly in 2 ways, either not a solid hookset or the jump.  Keeping a low rod tip and tight line will significantly help with a jumping fish.

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Try a harder hookset and see what happens.  A lot of times the breaking point on line is more than what is stated on the package.

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Lightweight equipment makes it more of a challenge to set the hook and land the bass.

 

8-pound test is an excellent line but are you using mono or flouro?

 

Are you using a baitcaster or spinning rig? Hopefully a spinning rig.

 

How long is the rod? 6-feet or 6-feet 6-inches? And is it a baitcaster or spinning rig?

 

Is the rod a "lightweight" rod? Setting hooks with a lightweight rod is a challenge.

 

What hook size? 1/0? 2/0? And the bait size?

 

Are the line test and bait size within the parameters of the rod specifications?

 

If you want to continue to use a lightweight set up how about going with a drop shot and a small, sharp circle hook at the bait's nose? With this set up all you have to do is lift the rod and keep the line tight.

 

Your post highlights why fishing with a 6-feet 6-inch or longer medium heavy rod and a 2500 spinning reel on 8-pound fluorocarbon line will give you the advantage.

 

Please give us more data and we may be able to continue our discussion and give you some good direction.

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I would go to 10# line and set the drag to break at 4#. Don't reel down on the fish all the way before setting the hook; you want a tiny bit of slack in the line so it snaps taut and punches the hook through in an instant. Keep your hook sharp and swing for the fences; as long as your drag is set right you shouldn't break your line (or rod.)

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Do I need to just set the hook harder?

Possibly, but certainly don't allow any slack in the line while you are playing the bass.

oe

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What hook are you using, exact size and number, and what soft plastic.

Tom

I was using a 1/0 offset worm hook and a 4.75 inch zoom finesse worm.

 

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Lightweight equipment makes it more of a challenge to set the hook and land the bass.

 

8-pound test is an excellent line but are you using mono or flouro?

 

Are you using a baitcaster or spinning rig? Hopefully a spinning rig.

 

How long is the rod? 6-feet or 6-feet 6-inches? And is it a baitcaster or spinning rig?

 

Is the rod a "lightweight" rod? Setting hooks with a lightweight rod is a challenge.

 

What hook size? 1/0? 2/0? And the bait size?

 

Are the line test and bait size within the parameters of the rod specifications?

 

If you want to continue to use a lightweight set up how about going with a drop shot and a small, sharp circle hook at the bait's nose? With this set up all you have to do is lift the rod and keep the line tight.

 

Your post highlights why fishing with a 6-feet 6-inch or longer medium heavy rod and a 2500 spinning reel on 8-pound fluorocarbon line will give you the advantage.

 

Please give us more data and we may be able to continue our discussion and give you some good direction.

I was using 8 pound copolymer line with a 1/0 offset worm hook, and a 4.75 inch zoom finesse worm. I have a 7 foot MH spinning rod.

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Everything sounds OK with the exception of the hook style, not a fan of off set worm hooks for T-rigs.

How does the worm come back after missing a bass; bunched up on the hook bend?

The easiest way to resolve the hook problem is to skin hook the worm and shorten how far the hook point is inserted into the worm nose. The hook point is inserted into thecworm nose only to the barb depth, then rotate the point out. Instead of inserting the hook back through the center of the worm body, insert through the side.

To cover the hook point with plastic, pinch the worm body and cover the exposed hook point with the skin of the plastic; ie "skin hooked". This will give you more hook bite into the basses mouth.

With a T-rigged small finesse worm you may need to snap set the hook; when you detect a strike, drop the rod tip down to create some slack line, then snap set by snapping the rod back quickly. Your spinning reel drag should be set at 2 1/2 to 3 lbs for 8 to 10 lb line.

You may have better hook setting % with an Owner #5100 size 1/0 or equal straight shank worm hook.

Tom

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For a plastic worm I usually go with a Extra Wide Gap not an Offset.  Although a Zoom Finesse worm isn't  that thick, follow WRB's instructions and see if that helps.  If you can though, I'd suggest getting EWG hooks.

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The suggestions have been good so far, my question is how many fish did you actually lose? 2? 5? 10? If its 3 or more. I would revisit your setting technique. 2nd, how big were the bass? You could have been dealing with young little bass. 1-2 lost fish? That's just fishing.

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In addition to all the other good suggestions above, I'd also make sure it's a good quality hook with a sharp point. 

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I was using 8 pound copolymer line with a 1/0 offset worm hook, and a 4.75 inch zoom finesse worm. I have a 7 foot MH spinning rod.

 

I usually use a 3/0 on my worms that are 4.75 inches. Offset or EWG, if the thickness is like that of a trick worm then offset would work, but typically use a EWG if any thicker. I fish a 6'6" MH with 8 and 10# mono and don't have a  problem, give it a nice stiff hookset, you won't break it. Set your drag like you would normally, not buttoned down but not loose enough it pulls on a hookset. It think it is one of two things the hook is too small or your just not setting it hard enough.

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I'd take Sam's advice on this one ;)

WYI: forget the EWG hooks, straight shanks have a higher hook up raito, except for circle hooks.

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I'd take Sam's advice on this one ;)

WYI: forget the EWG hooks, straight shanks have a higher hook up raito, except for circle hooks.

I have heard this, but have never felt comfortable with it when I used it. But it is something I will revisit because I understand the reasons it does hook up better and honestly maybe didnt give it enough of a chance. But when i did use a Texas rig this way feels like it sets different and comes through grass different. It hung up more?? Do you or Sam see this? Also out of curiosity does it affect the presentation? More bites one way or the other? Thanks.

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Think about your question!

What is perfered hook when "Punching" heavy or matted grass?

Clue it aint EWG ;)

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Think about your question!

What is perfered hook when "Punching" heavy or matted grass?

Clue it aint EWG ;)

I don't punch when I throw a Texas I am bottom dragging. It feels like it "digs" or gets hung more. And with regards to presentation I feel the bait glides and sets more parallel to the bottom with an ewg versus a straight shank being at an odd angle when rigged. Does it make sense? Or is it just in my head lol like I said I didn't stick with it very lol the few times I used straight shank.

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Straight shank has less hook sticking out to hang on anything which is why it's perfered for flipping, pitching, & punching.

That & a higher hook up ratio ;)

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