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Chevydriver2123

Did I Make A Mistake

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My wife got my the ci4+ for Xmas and a 7 foot m/h mojo rod and I just got #50 power pro spooled on it( first time using braid) did I make a mistake getting the power pro, I just starting fishing again last year I go about 2 times a week for a couple hours after work and on Sunday. I throw a lot of senkos spinnerbaits lipless cranks and jigs. But this is my only set up. Was it a bad idea to get the braid? Or should I go back to mono? I fish from shore 90% of the time. Any input would be great. Thanks everyone

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You will be in great shape. Enjoy your new set up!

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Braid is difficult to break off when snagged from shore. DO NOT try to break the line using your rod.

The technique is point the rod at the snagged lure so the line goes through the guides without touching the rod blank. Reel the line tight and pull against the reel only. A lot of anglers use a mono or FC leader so the leader breaks easier.

Tom

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Braid is difficult to break off when snagged from shore. DO NOT try to break the line using your rod.

The technique is point the rod at the snagged lure so the line goes through the guides without touching the rod blank. Reel the line tight and pull against the reel only. A lot of anglers use a mono or FC leader so the leader breaks easier.

Tom

I am going to have to politely disagree with you. 50# of force can bend a spool shaft, so putting all that force on it trying to break off can really damage your spool. I recommend wrapping the line around something you have with you, like scissors or a hook sharpener, etc and pulling. I once bent a spool shaft trying to break off 40# braid a few years back and I will never make that mistake again.

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I personally prefer mono for everything you mentioned, except for the jigs. Those other baits I have found that the stretch of mono helps the fish get an extra bit of time to inhale the bait, without ripping it from their mouth.

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The reel has a drag and max drag for most bass bait casting reels can apply is 12. To 14 lbs and that should protect your reels spool shaft. There is technique involved, you snap the pulling force, don't just apply even pressure.

I agree you can damage tackle trying to break off braid and you can also damage yourself from the braid cutting you. It's a problem and fishing from shore makes more difficult.

Tom

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great heads up by tom not to break ur rod trying to get a snag free. use a leader and it will break first (or ur connection knot). 'water ski' with a stick when ur snagged (wrap the braid around a stick a few times and pull back till it breaks.

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My wife got my the ci4+ for Xmas and a 7 foot m/h mojo rod and I just got #50 power pro spooled on it( first time using braid) did I make a mistake getting the power pro, I just starting fishing again last year I go about 2 times a week for a couple hours after work and on Sunday. I throw a lot of senkos spinnerbaits lipless cranks and jigs. But this is my only set up. Was it a bad idea to get the braid? Or should I go back to mono? I fish from shore 90% of the time. Any input would be great. Thanks everyone

The braid was a bad choice for the type of fishing you do. I would use 15lb fluorocarbon for everything you do on that rod.I suggest using a fc leader. 

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braid is excellent for shore fishing. i would have gone with 30lb only b/c you can cast it farther but 50 will do just fine and even allow you to get down and dirty.  getting snagged and loosing lures is 100 x's worst as a shore fisherman.  in a boat you can just motor over and un-snag the majority of the time.  braid to mono/copoly/fluoro gives you so much versatility when beating the banks b/c you can't carry as many rods. i remove the leader and tie straight braid when the cover gets nasty. with 50lb you'll be able to pitch a jig or frog into the nasty stuff. spinnerbaits and rattletraps are reaction lures so don't be shy about tying straight braid to them. you won't loose near as many traps b/c you'll be able to bend the hooks out and get ur lure back. if the fish are skittish or ur in clear water just tie ur leader back on. hitting a highly pressured public pond?  just tie on an 8lb leader and toss a 5" senko.  or a 1/4oz drop shot or 1/8oz shaky head. braid to leader spinning rod is the most versatile set up you could own. 

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To snap off easier with heavier braid/line. 

 

With a slack line, take your hand and start wrapping your line around your rod between the reel and the first eye. Wrap the line as many times as is necessary so that the line doesn't bite into your hand when you start applying pressure. Works for me...

 

As for the OP, I have a Ci4 on a Crucial 7 'MH F rod. Spooled with 15lb powerpro. I use it for everything because its such a great setup. 

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Yeah that isn't a mistake, although I probably would've done 30 lb for a BC, but not a huge issue using 50lb PP.  I normally use a leader (Floro or Hybrid/Co-Polymer), depending on the situation.

 

Also, what I do as others have suggested when pulling a snag, I do something different.  I usually let some line out, put my rod down and wrap the line around my arm (of course you don't want to do this without some kind of protection from getting your arm hurt from the line, like a towel or a jacket) and then pull the snag out this way.  This doesn't put any stress on the rod or reel. 

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Go 15# flouro for what your doing.

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Get a 12 to 15lb Fluro liter at the end of your line. 

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You can't go wrong with Braid.  Especially Power Pro which is my favorite.  As others mentioned add a FC leader if you feel it's necessary.  I prefer Seaguar InvizX for that application.

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Great question.

 

First, look at the new reel's specifications regarding line test to spool on the reel.

 

Make sure the braid's test diameter is within the spool's parameters, 6, 8 or 10 pound test.

 

You will have to view the braid's box or spool to note the line diameter the braid parallels with fluorocarbon line.

 

If the braid's test diameter is within that of the reel, you are fine.

 

You can go a little lighter or heavier, but not much.  As said above, if your line does not match the reel's specs you can damage the rod and reel when setting the hook or battling a nice bass, etc.

 

Look at your rod's line test limits stamped on the rod and make sure you are within them as well.

 

Always use a Q-Tip to run around your line guides after you use braid on any rod. If any of the cotton sticks to the inside of the guide the guide has been damaged by the braid so you will have to replace the guide.

 

Good luck and be sure to add your location to your avatar so we will be able to give you better input.

 

In the future, may I suggest you consider investing in some fluorocarbon line for our spinning setup?  The BPS sale is at the end of February and you can pick up so nice line on sale.

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Great question.

 

First, look at the new reel's specifications regarding line test to spool on the reel.

 

Make sure the braid's test diameter is within the spool's parameters, 6, 8 or 10 pound test.

 

You will have to view the braid's box or spool to note the line diameter the braid parallels with fluorocarbon line.

 

If the braid's test diameter is within that of the reel, you are fine.

 

You can go a little lighter or heavier, but not much.  As said above, if your line does not match the reel's specs you can damage the rod and reel when setting the hook or battling a nice bass, etc.

 

Look at your rod's line test limits stamped on the rod and make sure you are within them as well.

 

Always use a Q-Tip to run around your line guides after you use braid on any rod. If any of the cotton sticks to the inside of the guide the guide has been damaged by the braid so you will have to replace the guide.

 

Good luck and be sure to add your location to your avatar so we will be able to give you better input.

 

In the future, may I suggest you consider investing in some fluorocarbon line for our spinning setup?  The BPS sale is at the end of February and you can pick up so nice line on sale.

That isnt a problem with reels but rather with rods. I can throw 15lb fluorocarbon on my lews tp all day and it wont hurt it. The reason they tell you that is to show you know a general capacity. 

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great heads up by tom not to break ur rod trying to get a snag free. use a leader and it will break first (or ur connection knot). 'water ski' with a stick when ur snagged (wrap the braid around a stick a few times and pull back till it breaks.

X2

I used a piece of trimmed down lumber

Wrap the line a few times and it will break!

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Do you guys think I should use a leader all the time the main lakes I fish in you can only see 3ft down tops?

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Do you guys think I should use a leader all the time the main lakes I fish in you can only see 3ft down tops?

With jigs and texas rigs and other slow, bottom baits - yes, fluoro

most moving baits - no

cranks, spinnerbaits,- yes, mono (extra stretch will let them take it better, line invisibility is just an extra plus)

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