I'm new to making lures, and I'm wondering what I should use for adhesives and clearcoats.I don't think I should use superglue because i've heard it degrades in water. I Have heard clear gorilla epoxy also degrades in water, so I don't know about that.I have some spraycan acrylic clearcoat already if that's usable.

A good structural (not 5 minute) epoxy should work well on most materials.  Flex Coat and other rodbuilder companies carry it and other good brands.  For coating cranks that I've altered I have used Sally Hansen fingernail hard coating with good success.  Work fast with this stuff.

 

One thing you might try is to call Mudhole.com and ask for their advice.  They carry both rodbuilding and lure making products and have a very strong customer service activity.

For clear coat for cranks I started with 30 min epoxy, bit now I am using LBS diamond clear coat which is a lot thinner and easier to use than epoxy.

I use slow cure 30 minute epoxy to glue.  Any brand will do but I use Devcon Two Ton.  You can also use it to clearcoat your lures.  Fast cure epoxies like 5 minute versions are a no no.  The cure too fast to level out, turn an ugly brown exposed to UV rays, and are not waterproof.  Spray can urethane?  A few guys use it but most think it’s not durable enough.  Lots of guys like KBS Diamond Coat moisture cured urethane.  You can dip and hang lures with it, a simple method.  Check with tackleunderground.com and do a search on KBS for lots of info on it.

Envirotex Lite epoxy is what I use for my top coats. It requires a slow rpm drying wheel for best results. Quick set epoxy will crack and yellow over a short period of time.  

I think it depends on what it is you're wanting to glue/seal.

 

 

oe

 

17 hours ago, Baitmaker said:

Envirotex Lite epoxy is what I use for my top coats. It requires a slow rpm drying wheel for best results. Quick set epoxy will crack and yellow over a short period of time.  

I was looking at that and a $10 3 rpm disco ball motor on Amazon.

I'm interested in this topic also, and remember reading about someone trying "Plasti Dip Clear Coat Spray". Anyone try this as a descent quick way to topcoat or repair a topcoat that's chipping ? 

On 6/18/2018 at 7:31 PM, Bass'N'Bluegill said:

 

I was looking at that and a $10 3 rpm disco ball motor on Amazon.

Those motors will work well for turning smaller baits with a light weight wheel construction. Also microwave turntable motors and rotisserie grill motors will suffice. I've been turning my bass and walleye baits with the same rotisserie motor for years. For larger wheels and baits, you may look into something more beefy. 

On 6/19/2018 at 11:31 AM, Active_Outdoors said:

I'm interested in this topic also, and remember reading about someone trying "Plasti Dip Clear Coat Spray". Anyone try this as a descent quick way to topcoat or repair a topcoat that's chipping ? 

That's a flexible coating that may seal a bait but will wear and crack in short order. No spray can clear coats that I know of will seal and stay clear without cracking. As Bob P. said, many guys seem to like the KBS Diamond clear which can be dipped. I've not tried it, but the Envirotex epoxy is very durable with a high gloss. It's just kind of a PITA to work with. 

On 6/13/2018 at 9:31 PM, BobP said:

I use slow cure 30 minute epoxy to glue.  Any brand will do but I use Devcon Two Ton.  You can also use it to clearcoat your lures.  Fast cure epoxies like 5 minute versions are a no no.  The cure too fast to level out, turn an ugly brown exposed to UV rays, and are not waterproof.  Spray can urethane?  A few guys use it but most think it’s not durable enough.  Lots of guys like KBS Diamond Coat moisture cured urethane.  You can dip and hang lures with it, a simple method.  Check with tackleunderground.com and do a search on KBS for lots of info on it.

X 2. Good advice here all around. Devcon 2 ton is the only epoxy I use to install eye screws and diving lips in my wood baits. I have tested some different brands by pulling out eye screws with a winch, and the 2 Ton is tough stuff. The wood always breaks before the threads pull out.

I'm also a fan of the Devcon 2 ton. Been building spinnerbaits an jigs for over 20 years, all I use. Have also used it on purchased hardbaits to add a little glitter. Never used a turner for the coatings, I just sit at my work station and turn them by hand every few minutes while I'm tinkerin with skirts, blades etc.

Here's a popper I made from a piece of a broomstick handle:http://imgur.com/c3DsFeH

Just a note about glue.  I use epoxy but many glues work just fine.  What really keeps a wood crankbait together is the topcoat.  As long as it is intact with no water penetration, everything is fine.  Once water gets in, the bait expands, the finish fails, and your bait is toast. Lots of builders use superglue and no, water does not harm it.

Thanks for the tips.