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teamfyss

Do I have the right idea??

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Currently learning the basics and re wiring my boat for bilge, aerator, pump, and nav lights. From the battery I’ll run the positive into a fuse block, which I’ll run to a 4 way switch. From the switch I’ll run each positive into a lateral fuse box before going to the accessory. Now everything online is telling me to run all of my grounds back to a buss bar, but if my original fuse block has negative ground spots I could surely use that, correct? 

 

Feel free to critique as you see fit, if there’s anything you would change I’d like to know and understand why you would! Thanks.

 

edit- I plan on using 10 gauge from the battery terminals and 14 gauge everywhere else.

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Yes you can run the grounds to the ground on the fuse block, as long as you have a ground from the battery going to the fuse block ground. I would also suggest you do something like  this;

 

 Battery------30 amp breaker-------on/off switch--------fuse block--------switches

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5 minutes ago, Mjmj said:

Yes you can run the grounds to the ground on the fuse block, as long as you have a ground from the battery going to the fuse block ground. I would also suggest you do something like  this;

 

 Battery------30 amp breaker-------on/off switch--------fuse block--------switches

Well I’m already pretty discouraged about the whole thing and everyone seems to have their own way of doing things. I’m trying to keep it as simple as possible. With the least wires possible. Why the extra on/off switch..? 

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I understand you want to keep it simple. The on/off switch will allow you to shut of any possible battery drain, while the boat is not in use. I should have said a disconnect switch. I prefer blue seas, but this will work. 

 

Battery Switch, 6V 12V 24V 48V 60V Battery Disconnect Master Cutoff Switch for Marine Boat RV ATV UTV Vehicles, Waterproof Heavy Duty Battery Isolator Switch, 275/1250 Amps, On Off Position https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HT19T5V/ref=cm_sw_r_em_taa_e0cKCbERWZAGD

 

I got into the habit of shutting this off when I put the transom straps on. 

You will probably find most people will recommend this 

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1 minute ago, Mjmj said:

I understand you want to keep it simple. The on/off switch will allow you to shut of any possible battery drain, while the boat is not in use. I should have said a disconnect switch. I prefer blue seas, but this will work. 

 

Battery Switch, 6V 12V 24V 48V 60V Battery Disconnect Master Cutoff Switch for Marine Boat RV ATV UTV Vehicles, Waterproof Heavy Duty Battery Isolator Switch, 275/1250 Amps, On Off Position https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HT19T5V/ref=cm_sw_r_em_taa_e0cKCbERWZAGD

 

I got into the habit of shutting this off when I put the transom straps on. 

You will probably find most people will recommend this 

I will be adding that to my amazon list, thanks! I'd like to do it right the first time, and minimize a headache later on.

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23 minutes ago, redmexican5081 said:

This is the most basic wiring setup/diagram I have seen that I would recommend.

https://newwiremarine.com/how-to/wiring-a-boat/

 

Yeah I've read into that, I guess I just don't have the brain for electrical work.. none of it makes sense unless it's the exact lay out that I plan on going with. It's hard for me to take bits and pieces. In this case my cranking and house will be the same battery, I wont have a float switch etc.. maybe i just need an electrician to come do it for me LOL

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If you are like I am, you will understand it when you sketch the wiring diagram yourself.  Then post your sketch on here and get advice based on that.  Much better than trying to critique a word description.  You can sketch it and take a phone pic, get the pic to your computer, then upload to this site.

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1 minute ago, MickD said:

If you are like I am, you will understand it when you sketch the wiring diagram yourself.  Then post your sketch on here and get advice based on that.  Much better than trying to critique a word description.  You can sketch it and take a phone pic, get the pic to your computer, then upload to this site.

That's a good point, my apologies. I was hoping someone had a quick simple trick I didn't know about but it looks like its just the opposite! Better safe than sorry, i'll get to the drawing board with my new information.

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I'm no expert on this, but I think the principals are that all grounds should be common (all are connected without switches or fuses-experts, correct me if I'm wrong) and the power to all the "accessories" should have a fuse to protect the accessory.  

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10 minutes ago, MickD said:

I'm no expert on this, but I think the principals are that all grounds should be common (all are connected without switches or fuses-experts, correct me if I'm wrong) and the power to all the "accessories" should have a fuse to protect the accessory.  

That's exactly as I was taught, I'm not so familiar with using breakers and disconnects or other safety parts. Instead of using the disconnect switch, can't I do the old manual disconnect trick each time I get off the water? Save myself some wiring.

 

I'll be keeping grounds common, and will have all accessories wired with fuses. I'll also have a fuse box before switch closer to battery.

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51 minutes ago, teamfyss said:

Instead of using the disconnect switch, can't I do the old manual disconnect trick each time I get off the water? Save myself some wiring.

Do you mean taking a wire off a battery post?  Certainly is OK, but inconvenient compared with a switch.  But wherever you do the manual disconnect you could have a switch, couldn't you?  No extra wiring?  

 

If you prefer it manual, do it manual.  You know the requirements, and a switch isn't required.

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Just a few "must haves" on a boat that I have learned through experience.  

1.  Master shut off.  Breaker that I can flip that totally shuts the entire boat off from the batteries.

2.  Trolling motor shut off.  Allows me to leave power to the boat but shut off the TM.

 

Situation:  If I am staying for a week on the water and I don't pull my boat out, I can leave the master power switch on but shut down my keypad (Ranger setup).  That way if it rains during the night, I know my auto bilge will pump out any water while there is no power going to my graphs, etc.  While in that mode, I am usually plugged into shore power so I can use my TM shutoff to isolate that circuit.  I don't like leaving my TM powered up while charging the batteries.  Or...I could just unplug my TM but it's easier with the switch.  As soon as I put it on the trailer both switches get turned off.  Common upgrade now is to put a "Battery Selector" (a little more complicated than the one linked above) in place of the master shut off so you can direct one of the TM batteries to power your big motor in the event of a failure to your cranking battery.  I have not done this upgrade since I am used to the current setup.  I have a set of jumpers in the boat if my cranking battery ever fails to start the big motor.   

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3 hours ago, TOXIC said:

Just a few "must haves" on a boat that I have learned through experience.  

1.  Master shut off.  Breaker that I can flip that totally shuts the entire boat off from the batteries.

2.  Trolling motor shut off.  Allows me to leave power to the boat but shut off the TM.

 

Situation:  If I am staying for a week on the water and I don't pull my boat out, I can leave the master power switch on but shut down my keypad (Ranger setup).  That way if it rains during the night, I know my auto bilge will pump out any water while there is no power going to my graphs, etc.  While in that mode, I am usually plugged into shore power so I can use my TM shutoff to isolate that circuit.  I don't like leaving my TM powered up while charging the batteries.  Or...I could just unplug my TM but it's easier with the switch.  As soon as I put it on the trailer both switches get turned off.  Common upgrade now is to put a "Battery Selector" (a little more complicated than the one linked above) in place of the master shut off so you can direct one of the TM batteries to power your big motor in the event of a failure to your cranking battery.  I have not done this upgrade since I am used to the current setup.  I have a set of jumpers in the boat if my cranking battery ever fails to start the big motor.   

I do like the idea of being able to bridge the batteries if one is getting too low. But I think I'm going to wire it in as simple as I can and leave the switches out for now. If I feel the need I can always add them, correct me if I'm wrong. I bought the boat for a great deal but feel like I'm putting a little more than I should into it. It's a 1996 Fish Hawk 16 tiller. All in all I hope I enjoy the boat after all this work, then again maybe I'm being dramatic haha!

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Main power shutoff switch is a must.

Curcuit breaker/ shutoff switch for trolling motor.

Direct wire bilge pump float switch (bypass power shutoff).  This will allow it to function properly with power off should it be in the water and water intrusion occur, rain or otherwise, so boat doesn’t sink.

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I agree with the main power shutoff.  My old boat had it, my newer one doesn't, but I will be installing one soon.  This may sound silly, but my nephew comes by to visit and he loves to get in my boat.  I don't mind, I have all the hatches locked and he can't get into them. There have a been a couple times that he has bumped into one of the toggle switches for my bilge pump or livewell pump.  Its easy enough for me to turn it back off, but it would really suck if I didn't see him do it and my pumps just ran until they burned up or drained my cranking battery.  I plan on putting my main power switch hidden up under the console, that way I can just flip everything off after I trailer.

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