Last summer I lightly tagged a submerged log and took a kennedy half size piece out of the skeg and bent it slightly.  I took it in for repair. They removed the lower unit so repair man could pick up at shop, fix and return a week later. The kennedy half damaged piece was filled in and not noticeable however even though the skeg was straightened somewhat as you can see it is still bent somewhat. When I picked it up it was much harder to see with prop on.... but once I returned home and later in the fall I removed the prop to do a lower unit oil change it was much more obvious since you had the prop shaft sticking out to go by. I also took a picture of my 21' Mako 200 Opti (left side) and you can see that one is as straight as an arrow and perfectly in line with prop shaft.   The right side is a pic of the Basscat Cougar with 250 XS with the silver (Torque Master lower unit) 

 

So, the million dollar question.  How much is this going to affect everything ?  I have drove it just a few times since it was fixed and since there is always "Torque" on the steering wheel it is hard to say if there is any noticeable difference, but I am on the beginning side of learning how to deal and overcome chine walk and not sure if this condition will effect .... anything.  I personally myself think it needs to go back but I wish to hear opinions from more experienced owners.   Please note: I have heard that some repair facilities cut off old and weld on new but this one I will assume was "heated" then tried to straighten. Not sure what is the best policy for repairing a skeg with a bend. I would guess the original bend was and inch or so. Look forward to your opinions and advise or anyone I should contact to get advise or resolve.  

There's always a bit of a bend to accommodate for the prop torque.  The skeg is sacrificial and there to protect the prop, however, and shouldn't affect steering performance at all.  If you're dissatisfied with the work, take it back to shop that did the work.

I’d call up the shop that did the work @fishraptor, tell them you noticed the skeg isn’t straight which is what you paid for. And then ask when is the soonest can you bring it by so the repair can be completed...

Are you seeking advice what to do? Send the photos to the repair shop.

Tom

36 minutes ago, WRB said:

Are you seeking advice what to do? Send the photos to the repair shop.

Tom

I hear ya WRB but what my though was to get possibly some good sound advise from boaters that have experienced such a problem and people with expertise in the field...... that way when I do end up going back and trying to work with the repair shop I can say that I had some or lots of advise stating that the skeg would in fact present a problem and it was not fixed and should be reworked again.   I am sending another pic of the damaged skeg PRIOR to being fixed and noticed that in fact the skeg was originally bent in the opposite direction, making the repair process bend the skeg to the other side (passing vertical) which I find odd. I would have assumed that they would have stopped at the 90 degree vertical position, unless it was done intentionally?   Hence in inquiry here on this blog. 

I also sent all the pics of the bent skeg (the before and after) to Mark Croxten as he was suggested in my "spare prop" question on this blog. Possibly he might be able to give some insight on where I stand and possible suggestions. 

Doesn't seem right.  The last pic looks normal.

10 minutes ago, J Francho said:

Doesn't seem right.  The last pic looks normal.

You state "last pic looks normal"...... 

The pic below was taken immediately after the last pic above that shows skeg bent to left. You just can't see piece taken

out of front of skeg as it is hidden as pic is taken from directly inline. These last two pics were taken seconds apart. 

I probably wouldn't have repaired that unless I was selling.

6 minutes ago, J Francho said:

I probably wouldn't have repaired that unless I was selling.

Could have bolted on a skeg guard and been done with it.

The trim tab above the prop neutralize prop torque, the skeg is also a ruder at high speeds and being bent could affect handling. Skegs can get bent by hitting the ramp or trimming down engine in the garage.

Your problem now is time after you picked up the boat who is responsible?

I would try to get the lower unit repair shop via the dealer to straighten it but it means removing the lower unit again to repair it properly.

You have a highend boat and engine it should repaired to your satisfaction. 

Good luck.

Tom

19 hours ago, WRB said:

The trim tab above the prop neutralize prop torque, the skeg is also a ruder at high speeds and being bent could affect handling. Skegs can get bent by hitting the ramp or trimming down engine in the garage.

Your problem now is time after you picked up the boat who is responsible?

I would try to get the lower unit repair shop via the dealer to straighten it but it means removing the lower unit again to repair it properly.

You have a highend boat and engine it should repaired to your satisfaction. 

Good luck.

Tom

Hey WRG,  not positive but I believe the trim tab you are referring to above the prop to neutralize prop torque is not on

either of my 2 boats.   2011 Opti 200 and 2014 250 Pro XS.   It's that small triangular shape tab that hangs down above the prop.  Not sure why some engines have them and some don't.  I think you can actually change the angle of that tab if im not mistaken, maybe not ??

 

Anyway, I have a few more "feelers" out there and once I get back all of their opinions and suggestions will decide which way to go. At this point I leaning on a re-repair.  (is there such a word) ??

 

Thanks to all for you help. 

That part also serves as a sacrificial anode.  There might be two more rectangular metal parts on the sides of the LU that serve this purpose, too.  Chances are, you have one without the fin.  Most of my motors had them, one didn't.  They are adjustable, but I never had to.  I can imagine much of that fin is in the water once on plane, since it's just below the cavitation plate.  Maybe it helps during hole shot.

Just for the sake of this conversation, motor over 150hp don’t have the “upper” trim tab as they aren’t needed and serve no purpose as the bigger motors produce more torque as I understand it. The “plate” serves as another anode a @J Francho mentioned. In my opinion, the shop screwed up and should fix the skeg. Good luck @fishraptor, of course there’s also the rubber mallet 2X4 repair technique ?

1 hour ago, J._Bricker said:

Just for the sake of this conversation, motor over 150hp don’t have the “upper” trim tab as they aren’t needed and serve no purpose as the bigger motors produce more torque as I understand it. The “plate” serves as another anode a @J Francho mentioned. In my opinion, the shop screwed up and should fix the skeg. Good luck @fishraptor, of course there’s also the rubber mallet 2X4 repair technique ?

Rubber mallet and 2x4... ha ha    it's funny you should say this as someone stated that in some instances straightening with large pieces of wood are sometimes all that is needed and can be successful. But since I don't really don't know how "they" would fix this.  I can only imagine that some heat would be involved but there is that rubber gasket that does keep that gear oil in so some discretion would be involved.  Still working on it. will advise outcome in the end and post so that others can reference in case they run across same issue.