fishraptor

I ordered a Daiwa Ballistic LT5000D-CXH from Khoder Laden (Germany). The only reason I ordered it from them was because it was a 6.2 ratio that I could not find in the states, only the 5.2 speed. I have no idea why but it took over 6 weeks to get ????? when looking for reels overseas are their any big companies I should consider that have a big selection and good reputation ? Like our Tackle Warehouse here.

Friend has a "like new" St. Croix Legend Extreme, 7' MF he is selling. The ONLY reason he is getting rid of it is because he is constantly having issued with the braid to Floro leader knot catching in the tiny micro guides. He ties the larger modified Albright not the smaller FG. So I did some research comparing the Legend Extreme to the Legend Elite. Differences listed below: supposidely same blank on both Extreme has the Fugi SK2 reel seat vs the Elites TVS. Have never used or seen either. Opinions ... The both have St. Croix's TET, IPC, Art technologies so rods "supposidely at the same. Extreme has the "extreme skin" plastic type different shaped modern rear handle vs full high end cork on the Elite Extreme has Fugi K-R concept tangle free titanium guides with SIC rings VS Elites Fugi tangle free titanium w/Torzite rings. I have yet to handle the Legend Extreme to see how the real handle and seat feel and ditto for the Elite. I would have given the "value edge" to the Elite as I was under the impression that the Torzite guides were the best money could buy, I KNOW their the most expensive. I love cork handles but like I said, I did not pick up the Extreme so I do not to rule it out. Suprisingly the Elite is a tad cheaper from what I can see which to me doesn't make sense as it has the big dollar Torzite guides. Does anyone know if the micro guides on the Elite are the same size as the Extreme ? Since I do tie a really small FG I might not have an issue with the Extremes tiny micro guides catching the knot, but I still would like to know if the Elites are the same size or bigger. I was thinking of calling St. Croix regarding guide size for the two rods. It's the LXS70MF he is selling. would like opinions on the two being compared. I know both the Legend rods are very highly regarded and the St. Croix blanks are second to none (for customs) and I am sure either would be a nice addition to my collection and it will be nice to see where they stand as I have been reading for years on how great they are. I highlighted with coments my true favorites of my arsenal. Loomis Conquest 842S SJR (SWEET). (Certate) Megabass Destroyer Addermine (x 3) (AWESOME). (Stella) (AWESOME) or (Shimano Exsence) (very nice) Phenix MBX-S Classic 706M (VERY NICE). (Tatula Sterling Silver limited edition) (AWESOME x 2) Megabass Orochi XX F4. 1/2-68xx (jerkbait) (Metanium) Jackall Poisen Adrena PAD173MHA (Jig) (AWESOME). (Steez SV TWS) (AWESOME) Shimano Expride EX172MHA (crank) (VERY NICE). (Ballistic 2500) (very nice) Daiwa Tatula Elite flippin TAEL761HFB-AGS (Tatula Elite F/P) Daiwa Steez STZ 741XHFBA-XBD (frog) (Steez SV TWS) (AWESOME) Daiwa Tatula Elite TAEL761MLMFS-AGS (Ned) (Sweet). (Tatula Sterling Silver limited edition) (AWESOME x 2) Kistler Zbone LEXF-4MH-73 (VERY NICE). (Daiwa Zillion) Dobyns Champion XP DC 736C SH (frog) AWESOME. (Daiwa SV TWS) (AWESOME) Dobyns Champion XP CD 806 CD (BIG DEEP CRANKS). (Abu Garcia Revo Winch) Saltwater St. Croix Avid inshore 7' MF. (Penn Spinfisher 4500) St. Croix Avid inshore 7' MH F. (Shimano Saragosa 6000) Very nice Century 11' Surf casting (Stella 10000) AWESOME Shimano Terez 7'. (x2) for trolling Stripers. (Shimano Talica 16II) AWESOME Temple Fork 8.5' Albie rod. (Stradic CI4 4000) Black Widow casting rod for Tuna. (someday I'll try it if I ever put that puzzle together)

7'3" Medium Heavy paired with a Steez SV TW 7.3 It's my dedicated jig rod.... She's awesome...... It's one of those rods that is hard to put down......

Why would you choose to run a 6# leader to 40# braid ? or even 8 or 10. You didn't say what rod or reel types you were using (spinning/baitcasting) so not sure if your trying to get a knot through the tiny micro guides. If you wish to drop to a 6# leader drop the braid size down too. I would try not to go below 30#braid on a baitcaster for fear of having the line "dig in" causing further casting issues and also issues with wind knots. The best thing for you to do is learn the FG knot as it is the strongest and smallest. Once you master the FG you will never look back. I would not worry about line diameters regarding tying that FG. The FG is so strong is rarely breaks at the FG knot but instead breaks at the lure knot, which is what you want. Just retie a lure and away ya go.

I agree totally. Just fill the spool up to max..... use it for a good while and when you feel that that your line "might" be compromised (that last 50 yards that you have been using), just flip the line and put the "fresh" end on the outside of the spool and put the "used" section at the base. If push comes to shove and your total line length is a tad short just add a short section of new line (anything left over) at the bast and tie a uni to uni knot to the beginning piece of the "old section" that your beginning to spool first. The chance of that uni to uni knot ever hitting your guides is slim to none and even if it does, it's very small and will travel through the guides easily. This way swapping your line end to end gives you double duty on that line and you get 100% use out of that line. Just keep a record, maybe on a spreadsheet or something as to when you started or swapped ends so you know which reels have what and when to remove everything completely and put on new. I'll get "years" out of braid doing this procedure.

I called Rule pump and they advised for me to send them the pic that I have above of my pump. They emailed back and said, easy, just cut/disconnect the electrical line then grab ahold of the pump with one hand and the ball valve with the other and unscrew it counterclockwise from the top of the ball valve. Once out, screw the new unit it which is and upgraded unit (401FC Tournament 500GPH) that has the exact same specs, reconnect the wires and .... go fish.

thanks guys......

My boat is a 2011 Mako. I noticed that last year at the Cape the live well pump became erratic, shutting off, turning on, shutting off and so forth. Since it was the last time for that season I let it go until late fall when I had time to look at it. I turned it on and it rattled terribly then shut off and I new it was worn out so it needs to be replaced which I would like to do. It is in the lower bilge of the boat and I began by cutting off each hose on each side since there was more than enough hose to reconnect. There is a ball valve down there which one can shut off in the event of a hose failure so that the boat does not fill with water. I am not sure how it removes however. It's kinda tuff looking in there but from what I can see it appears to possibly just be threaded into a pvc type connection which goes out through the bottom of the boat. I tried to unthread it but it will not budge and I did not wish to break it. I can see Rule 1500 written on the side of the pump. By looking at the picture can anyone advised as to how it comes out ? I know they sell like a "repair" kit but I think getting a complete new one is best especially since in in the ocean. I don't know how they come apart ?

Rubber mallet and 2x4... ha ha it's funny you should say this as someone stated that in some instances straightening with large pieces of wood are sometimes all that is needed and can be successful. But since I don't really don't know how "they" would fix this. I can only imagine that some heat would be involved but there is that rubber gasket that does keep that gear oil in so some discretion would be involved. Still working on it. will advise outcome in the end and post so that others can reference in case they run across same issue.

Hi Txchaser..... thanks for the info... The magnetic mount from that company looks like it would be a great choice IF my hull is not too thick. I emailed that company and asked if he has used such mount on my canoe. If it works .... thank transducer mount looks to fit the bill. As far as the mounting the fish finder (maybe a Helix 7 or 8) I'm not sure getting the mount that incorporates the battery beneath it would be a good choice because it seems like you would be adding quite a bit of weight to one side of the boat (Helix and batters & mount).... that would concern me. So thinking of just putting a battery in the narrow bow of the boat, low in the boat, in a completely foamed in base the shape of the nose. This way no chance of tipping and such. I need weight up there anyway to keep nose down when gunning the 6 Yami 4 stroke. Then just run battery wires back to just the Helix on some sort of mount. This way I don't have to add the battery to the side of the boat. Kill two birds with one stone. Add weight to front, take weight away from side. To me, that battery box and Helix seems like it would be a lot of weight sitting on one side of the canoe.

Hey Bass Junke, thanks for the Tip. I really do like the idea of not having to drill holes, long arms and such. If this thing works as good as it did in the video it looks like it might be a solid consideration. Thanks for the great tip. This is why this forum is so great. By the way I see everyone has two names (Bass Junke / Dink) ( txchaser/short fish) .... what's up with that ? Good suggestion.... save some serious bucks for sure .... but probably because the smallest I have is a Helix 10 and thinking that might be a little big for the canoe, but then again .... maybe not. Food for thought for sure. Thanks.

Hey WRG, not positive but I believe the trim tab you are referring to above the prop to neutralize prop torque is not on either of my 2 boats. 2011 Opti 200 and 2014 250 Pro XS. It's that small triangular shape tab that hangs down above the prop. Not sure why some engines have them and some don't. I think you can actually change the angle of that tab if im not mistaken, maybe not ?? Anyway, I have a few more "feelers" out there and once I get back all of their opinions and suggestions will decide which way to go. At this point I leaning on a re-repair. (is there such a word) ?? Thanks to all for you help.

I recently purchase this used canoe. It is an Old Town 17' Discovery Sport in absolute MINT condition. It had only been used just a few times. The inside bottom of the boat does not look like anyone stepped into it. Not a scratch anywhere. $700 bucks. New this sold for well over twice that. This titanic has a load capacity rated at 1000 pounds. I also got a nice very long aluminum trailer to make launch time a breeze. Anyway I have never owned a canoe before but purchased it for back Adirondack lakes and pond fishing and bodies of water in which motors are not allowed. I am getting a 6hp Yami 4 stoke for it for the lakes that do allow motors. I purchased two stealth rod holders for it which I have not installed yet but probably get two more for a 2nd fisherman. I also got some really high quality oars made of fir, pretty expensive but very light. I would like to put some electonics on it but not sure which one. I have Helix 10's & 12's on both my Mako and Basscast so leaning toward a Humminbird unit, just not sure which size/model. I really don't want anything too small but would like to set it up so that it is as versatile as possible. Mega, SI... It's a big boat w/lots of room so size should not be an issue. Any suggestions on what you would you fit her with ? Also, I don't know best option for where or how to mount/use transducer. From what I see I'm guessing a transducer on some sort of rigging to lower/raise as apposed to a permanent fixture but that is just a guess so far. So looking for suggestions on unit, Transducer mount and maybe even Battery type ? (maybe lithium for lightness) ? Hoping some canoe/kayak owners can give me some advice....

You state "last pic looks normal"...... The pic below was taken immediately after the last pic above that shows skeg bent to left. You just can't see piece taken out of front of skeg as it is hidden as pic is taken from directly inline. These last two pics were taken seconds apart.

I hear ya WRB but what my though was to get possibly some good sound advise from boaters that have experienced such a problem and people with expertise in the field...... that way when I do end up going back and trying to work with the repair shop I can say that I had some or lots of advise stating that the skeg would in fact present a problem and it was not fixed and should be reworked again. I am sending another pic of the damaged skeg PRIOR to being fixed and noticed that in fact the skeg was originally bent in the opposite direction, making the repair process bend the skeg to the other side (passing vertical) which I find odd. I would have assumed that they would have stopped at the 90 degree vertical position, unless it was done intentionally? Hence in inquiry here on this blog. I also sent all the pics of the bent skeg (the before and after) to Mark Croxten as he was suggested in my "spare prop" question on this blog. Possibly he might be able to give some insight on where I stand and possible suggestions.

Does anyone have his number ? Is he on this site ? if so, what's his alias....

I currently only have a Fury 3 25p for my 2014 Cougar FTD. Getting it reworked to try to get a "little" more hole shot out of it. I wish to get a spare prop to have in the boat in case a rock or shoal should jump out in front of my boat. Question: When it comes to getting another prop does it make any sense in looking used or is it best to just go new? Any rules of thumb that one should follow? The reason I ask is because I see a lot of chatter on some blogs about boaters having multiple props, getting rid of, looking to swap and so forth. I just dont know if buying used can be dangerous (like buying a used engine). Are their any outfits that specilize in used props. Was possibly thinking of trying a Fury 4 but not sure of what pitch.

Last summer I lightly tagged a submerged log and took a kennedy half size piece out of the skeg and bent it slightly. I took it in for repair. They removed the lower unit so repair man could pick up at shop, fix and return a week later. The kennedy half damaged piece was filled in and not noticeable however even though the skeg was straightened somewhat as you can see it is still bent somewhat. When I picked it up it was much harder to see with prop on.... but once I returned home and later in the fall I removed the prop to do a lower unit oil change it was much more obvious since you had the prop shaft sticking out to go by. I also took a picture of my 21' Mako 200 Opti (left side) and you can see that one is as straight as an arrow and perfectly in line with prop shaft. The right side is a pic of the Basscat Cougar with 250 XS with the silver (Torque Master lower unit) So, the million dollar question. How much is this going to affect everything ? I have drove it just a few times since it was fixed and since there is always "Torque" on the steering wheel it is hard to say if there is any noticeable difference, but I am on the beginning side of learning how to deal and overcome chine walk and not sure if this condition will effect .... anything. I personally myself think it needs to go back but I wish to hear opinions from more experienced owners. Please note: I have heard that some repair facilities cut off old and weld on new but this one I will assume was "heated" then tried to straighten. Not sure what is the best policy for repairing a skeg with a bend. I would guess the original bend was and inch or so. Look forward to your opinions and advise or anyone I should contact to get advise or resolve.

What exactly does the RCS 1012sv do that makes is cast better than the stock spool ? You didn't mention whether also changed the stock bearings out to a superior set, either steel or Ceramics ? Why did you change out the spool (and bearings if you did) if you just mostly use it for pitching ? I thought the main reason guys replace their spools to a high grade was to get more distance... Please elaborate.... By the way, how much did the RCS 1012sv cost and assume the swap was pretty straight forward....

I happen to be very fond the the Steez SV TW baitcasters. I have a few plus the Zillion, it's baby brother. Subject reel is on my Dolbyns CD 736 frog rod and it's an absolutely beautiful combo. It is unbelievably forgiving and casts quite far..... however I am hardly every satisfied so I was wondering if anyone had any "tips/trick" to get the Steez to cast any farther. Even w/40# braid I can get out to between 40 & 50 yards w/a plastic frog. Even though she casts quit far my free spool is not that impressive at only like 4 seconds ?? Not sure if this is hurting me at all as far as distance. I have stock bearings and don't know if changing them with ceramics would help ? Of all the information gathering I did I see that some people have shaved a smidgen off the magnetic brake hub/cup... I have head scuttlebut about changing the spring on the Magnetic brake hub/cup might influence distance... Don't know if they back a superior replacement spool for that reel that would help ? I was hoping that with the popularity of that expensive reel that their is someway to tweek/modify it for increase casting distance. I did buy some TSI 321.... should I be using that on the spool bearings ? Not sure what it has for lubricant on the spool from the factory ? I can only assume that one of the high end DC models out there should easily be able to outcast it but I have never owned a DC reel yet. If I had to I would sell the Steez and just buy a DC to get the extra distance but not sure what model to choose. Obviously it would have to hold a lot of 40# braid. Some might ask why would you need a frog rod setup to cast over 50 yards and there are times when your in a swampy area with pockets wwwwayyy back that you would like to reach without taking boat back there.....

A LOT of Merc tech's are VERY reluctant to give you much info regarding fixing you engine, especially in the "slow" time of the year. They would just prefer you bring it to them to diagnose and fix. I actually would be the two Merc tech's I spoke to didn't give me a "warm & fuzzy" as to what they thought it might be. If it were something as simple as checking and replacing temp sensors (which I think would be a breeze for them) then they should say as such, but when they roll their eyes and start talking it could be 4 to 6 hours and I'm really don't have a clue as to what it might be standing here, that scares me. Hence, if I can change the sensors myself and prob goes away I am out the price of a few sensors and my time and i/we can remove that part of the puzzle if and when I do bring it to the dealer. I don't have a problem bringing it to a dealer I just don't want to be charge a half days labor for a bad sensor and a 3" piece of gas hose that just didn't seem right.

I have a 2011 200HP Opti with 300 hours. Runs like a raped ape in summer. No skip, no pop, just instant throttle response. Has new plugs, new fuel, new filters, etc. Problem: when temp gets below say 50 or 45 she just cranks, and cranks and cranks. I have 2 brand new batteries in her (850 & 1150 cca for total of 2000 cold cranking amps). All electrical connections are super clean and she cranks fine. Was told maybe a temp sensors has failed which determines the choke amount. I would like to change whatever sensors I need to see if that fixes the problem before shelling out a bunch of money at the Merc dealer. Can anyone tell me which (how many) sensors I would need to change or how to test. I would assume there must be an "air" temperature sensor and a "water/block" temperature sensor but don't now how many, where they are or how to test or change. I do have electrical friends with good ohms meters that will help. Is there a PDF service bulletin manual that would describe testing/replacing. Was told my the merc mechanic that Opti's should start o.k. in cold weather. If there is something else that might be causing this issue please advise what and possibly how to check. thank you in advance.

I've done a little research in the last few day and I agree with you "CroakHunter"...... I think the 806 will work just fine with a line change. Thanks,

I am fairly new to the boat Bass fishing with just a few years experience. A presentation I have not used/tried would be the A-rig, umbrella. I did get some suggestions on A-rig baits with Yum Flash Mob Jr. w/silver willow and Yums matching trailers & jig heads in both 1/8 & 1/4 oz. Bought 2 complete sets of those. The other brand recommended was Shane so probably get a pair of those also, staying on the 5 bait small side. I have 3 poles which are in the "neighborhood" of possibly getting the job done but need to hear back if they are appropriate. A fishing buddy advised he was told that a rod needs to be more of the medium/heavy , long 7'er as a heavy or ext/heavy would be to stiff and possibly pull hooks out. The three rods I have and their current "jobs" are listed but need to know if any of them will "double up" as an A-rig rod so I don't have to purchase another. Dobyns DC 736 SH 7'3", 15-30lb, 3/8-2oz., Hvy / Ex Fast Action (This is my dedicated froggin rod and I absolutely LOVE IT) Match w/Daiwa SVTW/Steez 7.1 Ratio w/40# Suffix 832 braid) Daiwa Steez STZ/741xHFBA-XDB 7'4", 1/2-2oz, 55-80braid, Extra Heavy (This was purchased as my "back up" frog rod but the Dobyns 736 listed above cannot be improved upon, that combo is beyond perfect. So this Steez rod became my flippin/pitchin as it is a tad stiffer anyway so makes a more appropriate for that job in the thick mats. (Paired with Daiwa SV TW/Steez 7.1 reel w/40# Suffix 832 braid) Dobyns DC 806 CB 8', 10-20lb, 1/2-2oz., Heavy, Mod/Fast Action "Mag Cranker" (This is my dedicated big cranking rod w/30# Suffix 832 braid) w/Abu Garcia Revo Winch 5.4 ratio. I was guessing that the last rod above (806 CB) 8'er might get the job done as doubling up for an A-rig umbrella rod as it has the mod/fast action which would be a tad more forgiving regarding "pulling hooks" that my friend cautioned me about, plus the large handle Revo winch 5.4 ratio would make cranking that A-rig in much easier. Plus the long 8 footer might help lob that A-rig out. The only problem I see is it currently has 30# Suffix 832 braid on it as you need thinner line to get those big deep divers down as that is it's current job, but for throwing A-rigs I am guessing the 30# might be too light, but not sure on this ?? Any opinions would be appreciated. If, by some reason none of the 3 rods listed above will fit the bill for umbrella rigging please feel free to suggest any really nice rods.

Hi J Francho, I was considering your idea but I may end of going quit a distance (few miles) and an electric would most likely die. Now having both would be a tremendous asset. Wonder what model electric would be best for this large heavy Canoe. (thrust)