7 hours ago, SkinnyWaterBasser said:

Candy apple or a shade or two darker is exactly what I'm shooting for. Seems like if I really hope to get exactly what I want with color I really need to buy a bunch of colors I like and wrap / finish till I find what I'm looking for. What has your experience with various reds turned up Mick?

I have used old Gudbrod candy apple and Fuji candy apple,  both with cp + a ProWrap red with cp. They all look good, prefer candy apple. I have used no-cp thread only for light, nonmetallic trim.  I really like candy apple with a thin black trim next to it and thin metallic gold on the outside.

6 hours ago, CrashVector said:

If money is no object, the Abu Garcia Zenon spinning reel and rods....are amazingly light.

 

Just be be prepared to drop about $1,000.

With all the planning that has gone into this project so far, it is unlikely that any factory rod will suffice.  Even one with "Robotically Optimized Casting System" guide train.  

1 hour ago, MickD said:

With all the planning that has gone into this project so far, it is unlikely that any factory rod will suffice.  

Definitely not. For a thousand bucks I will be able to build a few rods EXACTLY how I want them, AND PAY for all of my tools and supplies. My whole venture into customs is because I flat out refuse to pay 1k for any rod on the market. I don't care what fancy nano modulus, professional athlete impregnated blank they use. There's not a decal in the world worth that kind of money to me. There's a diminishing reward with super high end fishing rods. I'll build my own on the best components I can find the way I want them AND have rods that will fish side by side with the pricey name brands. I'm not saying that some of these crazy high end rods aren't using the absolute best components available (some may be using technology not available to rod builders) I am saying that the amount of money it takes to acquire such a rod doesn't justify the cost when I can build something that fishes very close performance wise for a third the cost. My .02

That is a really really nice looking build Mick, what thread color was used? Cp or no cp? Please spill the beans on how you got that amazing red color!!

1 hour ago, SkinnyWaterBasser said:

what thread color was used? Cp or no cp?

That is Fuji Ultra Poly candy apple red #020 with Flex Coat cp. (I use two coats of cp just in case, and make sure to fill the tunnels until capillary action no longer draws cp into the tunnel, then blot off the excess with a paper towel.  Second coat, same process)   Pro Wrap metallic black and Pro Wrap gold metallic (one of their golds, don't remember which). 

 

I like metallics, even in black, for the nail knots I use for the trim rings.  It tends to stay tight better than regular  thread.  I think I got those done with only 3 wraps of the nail knots, but cannot remember for sure.  Might be 4.  Cannot make a nail knot work with 2.  A tip on nail knots, when you pull them tight and work them into position, don't cut the thread tails off immediately.  Apply cp to the junction of the thread, justs a tiny drop, and it will stabilize the knot so that when the cp dries a very sharp exacto knife can be used to cut off the tails.  Of course if you're not using cp, this cannot work.  I really like the sheen of regular thread with cp.  

 

I put the first coat of cp on the wraps as soon as I feel confident the guides are in good alignment to stabilize the guide positions a little; they still can be moved slightly if necessary even though cp is on them, but it will be harder to do it, and they won't move from a casual bump.  

 

Note that if you use white cp it has solids in it, which is how  it works.  The color goes transparent when it dries.  But you should mix the cp every time you use it to be sure the solids are in suspension and not settled at the bottom.  I simply shake the bottle, which yes, makes bubbles, but since I blot it anyway any bubles are burst and don't dry.  

Awesome thank you for those tips!!

5 hours ago, SkinnyWaterBasser said:

Awesome thank you for those tips!!

You're welcome.  You do know that after 6 pages and counting on this project we will expect photos on how it turns out.  Keep asking questions-that is how one learns.  :-)

I plan to share photos throughout the entire process. I aim to show as much as I can so the next guy that reads or follows this thread can take my lack of knowledge and be able to walk through the process step by step.

 

Hoping that North fork composites gets my blank to me soon so I can start taking measurements to buy up all the rest of my components. As much as I'd like to just guess and assume I'd feel like a bonehead if stuff didn't fit so I'm practicing patience and studying as much as I can about the technical stuff like guide placement, guide wrapping, epoxying, etc.... And I will DEFINITELY be asking lots more questions. 

 

This is going to be a long thread. I really appreciate everyone who has been answering questions and helping. 

Skinny,

About 13 years ago their was some information passed to rod builders about a two rod test build, one built New Guide Concept, one built like Pat Vinzant builds a guide system, he is a rod builder who specializes in high performance spinning rods. Same blanks, same grips and reel seat. The Pat Vinzant rod was lighter and better balanced, and performed demonstratively better in the situation you may be using your build in, and at no time performed worse under any situation. The author of the post was Bob McKamey and the builder of the rods was his son Hunter who does the rod building videos for Mudhole and is a longtime tournament angler. I'd be happy to send you a .pdf I made of the information if you like.

I'd like to read it. Shoot it over. Thanks in advance!!

Any kind of tools that you guys consider must haves when it comes to building rods? I'm seeing a wide range of prices on reamers? Are they a " you get what you pay for" item or can I make due just as well with a cheaper set? I have basic tools, I'm interested in the specialty stuff that . makes life easier. 

The reamer sets that can be chucked into a drill are useful if you are limited to preshaped grips.

53 minutes ago, SkinnyWaterBasser said:

Any kind of tools that you guys consider must haves when it comes to building rods? 

I think a turning motor for letting the epoxy dry is a great tool.

Other things that are nice: Some kind of burnishing tool...I have used a BiC lighter.

A caliper. Tip Top and guides sizing gauge.

 

Though you can use a white china marker for marking the guide positions...I have fallen in love with a Gelly Roll 08 white pen by Sakura.

 

There are just a few things...

I think doing things in Metric also simplifies sizes and measuring.

1 hour ago, Chris Catignani said:

fallen in love with a Gelly Roll 08 white pen by Sakura.

Why?  Details?

Don't buy crappy reamers, you'll regret it. I like Batson dream reamers, mudhole ones are probably similar.

2 hours ago, MickD said:

Why?  Details?

I'm also curious why?

13 hours ago, MickD said:

Why?  Details?

10 hours ago, SkinnyWaterBasser said:

I'm also curious why?

 

What is the width of the point?  Can you epoxy over it directly or do you have to use CP first?

 

I saw some at Hobby Lobby this morning , but only in black exc for 3-pen packages, which I didn't want to go with.  

 

thanks

Skinny,

Can't send a .pdf via message function on site, guess I need to email you.

1 minute ago, spoonplugger1 said:

Skinny,

Can't send a .pdf via message function on site, guess I need to email you.

I think you can copy the pfd then paste into the message function.   Yes, just did it, then cut it out.  You have to have PFD software that will allow you to edit PFD files.  You select the text, copy it, then go to the message function here and paste it.  

6 hours ago, MickD said:

What is the width of the point?  Can you epoxy over it directly or do you have to use CP first?

The 08 on the pen means its .08mm. They also have 1mm, .06mm and .05mm.

Yes you can epoxy over it.

Size 16 reel seat on a spinning rod is standard isnt it? I think I'm ordering a seat and grips tonight

A 16 mm reel seat on a spinning rod is to small and will cramp your hand over a day's fishing. I personally use a 20, or 22 mm Fuji NPS, or pipe seat on my rods this makes them at least semi-ergonomical. As men's hands go I have short fingers. I like the shape of the NPS when down locking and the length means I need very little extra grips, if at all on a split grip rod.

Many steelheaders have made NFC SH 1002 HM blanks into 4.2 - 4.5 oz rods, a 4.2 was built by Gary himself with a NPS reel seat, you should get a sweet stick. They come in 16, 18, 20, and 22 mm I believe still.

How does duragloss differ from permagloss? Is it more of a medium build type coating?

50 minutes ago, SkinnyWaterBasser said:

How does duragloss differ from permagloss? Is it more of a medium build type coating?

Duragloss is for washing cars...permagloss is for finishing a rod blank. Now ...you can use permagloss as a finish. But epoxy is pretty much the standard today. In the old days BFC (before Flex Coat) people use varnish...and it took about 5 coats to make it look like one coat of FC. If your intent on using the lightest finish humanly possible...then just a coat of something like Carters Crystal Clear Color Preserver and call it done.

 U-40 the same company that makes permagloss sells a 2 part finish called duragloss. I did see the car stuff in my web search. Lol I'm not against a thin coat of epoxy. I'm not against permagloss. I'm just spending time while I wait for NFC to get my blank to me to educate myself.