13 hours ago, RHuff said:

 

 I did honestly cut the gain back while scanning I just turned it up to show a defined thermocline for the picture I wanted to post... 

I like the gian turned up manually with a little clutter to show details.

Tom

On 8/16/2022 at 12:45 AM, txchaser said:

) you don't have to take the whole leap all at once, just go to some of your best bank areas and ... cast the other direction. You'll start to notice some stuff out there. 

2) I've noticed a heavy worm or c-rig can tell me a lot - in particular in the places I've been fishing recently, I can find little rocky areas often no bigger than 3x3. Those spots will produce multiple fish for me. The comments above about finding what is different are spot on.

This is all that's required in the manmade reservoirs in my neck of the woods. "Offshore" is just a big mud flat in them for the most part. 

When the thermocline is set up, I simply find it, then parallel the bank around that depth in areas that have been productive for me closer to shore. 

 When there's no thermocline, I'll watch my sonar a bit to find the depth the bait is suspending, then fish structure areas at that depth. 

On 8/17/2022 at 3:47 AM, T-Billy said:

This is all that's required in the manmade reservoirs in my neck of the woods. "Offshore" is just a big mud flat in them for the most part. 

When the thermocline is set up, I simply find it, then parallel the bank around that depth in areas that have been productive for me closer to shore. 

 When there's no thermocline, I'll watch my sonar a bit to find the depth the bait is suspending, then fish structure areas at that depth. 

 

I have noticed too that may be the issue on one of my local lakes....It's like everything offshore is just slime and muck stuck on hooks....   So you're saying what you do is identify the thermocline or depth zone (so lets say you've got bait balls in 8-10ft... you'll parallel the bank fishing that depth zone? I'm guessing making long casts with a DT 10 or a deep diving jerkbait, for example? 

On 8/14/2022 at 10:00 PM, RHuff said:

• Identify the life zone or thermocline
• Scan the contour line of the proper depth of the life zone
• Mark the “irregularities” at that depth (hard bottom, brush pile, rock pile) as many as I can find
• Fish the Waypoints in a revolving  order until you find active fish

This is a pretty decent checklist.

What I usually do first is I check the depth chart and look for the deep part or parts of the lake. If there is a deep part in one area, anything between the deep part and shallow water like a point is usually a good spot to target. Is there an arm off of the deep spot? (arms make points).

 

In man-made lakes, look for old creek channels at the bottom of the lake. Usually those are your deep points, and they usually lead somewhere to shallower water (maybe above the thermocline). Remember a bass will not just swim up, they will follow the bottom to move from deeper water to shallow water.

 

Beyond that, when you are marking laydowns, shoals and rockpiles, look for the presence of fish in the area, whether it's bass or baitfish as well. The combination of fish in the area and structure is always a good sign.

2 hours ago, RHuff said:

.   So you're saying what you do is identify the thermocline or depth zone (so lets say you've got bait balls in 8-10ft... you'll parallel the bank fishing that depth zone? I'm guessing making long casts with a DT 10 or a deep diving jerkbait, for example

Yep. Simple as that. I'm certainly no expert, but this works well for me.

On 8/15/2022 at 6:42 AM, PhishLI said:

 

Good video that is easy to understand and watch.

Targeting sharpe or steep breaks is very very basic but a good starting point.

Surveying the marina for depth of the life zone or thermocline is where like to start to eliminate fishing under the bass or too deep.

I have already studied the lakes topography using Navonics  and knowledge. Steep breaks, walls and ledges are easy to find and deep breaks are often better during colder water periods. Warmer water the breaks are often in less then 30’ of water and above the thermocline.

As mention many times I start in the marina to determine life zone or thermocline depth to eliminate fishing under the bass, easy mistake to make off shore.

Tom

Rhuff. I am looking at a 2008 Triton VT17 today. What year is your model and have you had both a 2007 and 2008? How did you fix that crack in your transom after JBWeld?

 

I hear that the 2007 is the most common year for this issue. I will check the 2008 I am looking at though. Do your bunks come all the way to the transom or stop a few inches back?

 

Thanks... If you see this

6 hours ago, jdphipps said:

Rhuff. I am looking at a 2008 Triton VT17 today. What year is your model and have you had both a 2007 and 2008? How did you fix that crack in your transom after JBWeld?

 

I hear that the 2007 is the most common year for this issue. I will check the 2008 I am looking at though. Do your bunks come all the way to the transom or stop a few inches back?

 

Thanks... If you see this

 

 

 I have a 2007 model..   I did have to have both of the seams on the bottom of the hull reinforced and welded...  I figured out the reason was that when the boat was on the trailer the bunks were about 2 or 3 inches short and the transom was overhanging.. Right after I had it repaired I launched it and tied it off at a dock and took the trailer bunks off and turned them around... Now I have an extra two inches of bunks past the transom to fully support it... No issues since.....Check that on yours to see if that is also an issue..... IMO it was a defect from the factory when the trailers were built... Those boats were outsourced by Triton (built by another factory - Crestliner I believe but not 100% sure) and slapped the Triton stickers on the side

2 hours ago, RHuff said:

 

 

 I have a 2007 model..   I did have to have both of the seams on the bottom of the hull reinforced and welded...  I figured out the reason was that when the boat was on the trailer the bunks were about 2 or 3 inches short and the transom was overhanging.. Right after I had it repaired I launched it and tied it off at a dock and took the trailer bunks off and turned them around... Now I have an extra two inches of bunks past the transom to fully support it... No issues since.....Check that on yours to see if that is also an issue..... IMO it was a defect from the factory when the trailers were built... Those boats were outsourced by Triton (built by another factory - Crestliner I believe but not 100% sure) and slapped the Triton stickers on the side

Thanks for the reply. I am going to look at it in about 2 hours. The bunks look like they sit flush with the transom. I asked the guy about the weld crack issue and he said he also knew about this problem when he bought the boat but there are no cracks and the boat takes on no water nor has that area been fixed or welded on. 

 

It has a 60hp Merc 4 stroke. I'm excited to see it as it will be my first boat. If the boat sits truly flush on the bunks do you think that will be an issue? Should I try to get the bunks further out to prevent the hull from cracking?

 

Thanks for your input and your experience. I truly appreciate it. If I buy it and it does crack at some point, at least its aluminum and can be welded and repaired fairly easily. If I buy the boat I may eventually want some picture of your repair weld and reinforcement just incase I ever have to have that done. 

 

Thanks, and tightlines!

8 hours ago, jdphipps said:

Thanks for the reply. I am going to look at it in about 2 hours. The bunks look like they sit flush with the transom. I asked the guy about the weld crack issue and he said he also knew about this problem when he bought the boat but there are no cracks and the boat takes on no water nor has that area been fixed or welded on. 

 

It has a 60hp Merc 4 stroke. I'm excited to see it as it will be my first boat. If the boat sits truly flush on the bunks do you think that will be an issue? Should I try to get the bunks further out to prevent the hull from cracking?

 

Thanks for your input and your experience. I truly appreciate it. If I buy it and it does crack at some point, at least its aluminum and can be welded and repaired fairly easily. If I buy the boat I may eventually want some picture of your repair weld and reinforcement just incase I ever have to have that done. 

 

Thanks, and tightlines!

 

The guys that fixed mine charged me like $120 and did a great job.. if the bunks are aligned correctly then it shouldn’t be an issue.. i love mine.. I can take it in about 2ft of water.. easy to pull and easy on gas… i put the new motorguide tour pro on it with pinpoint it makes all the difference… you’ll run about 32-33mph with that 60 HP on it..