I could use some advice.  I fish mostly from the bank and almost always bring two rods - a baitcaster (Curado 150 MGL) and spinning (Stradic 3500) setup.  I’ve been running straight fluorocarbon on both for a while now just because it’s easy.  During this summer I’ve been going through fluorocarbon like crazy, usually from backlashes due to weird angled casts from the bank and lack of experience (I’m new to a baitcaster) and snags on the spinning rod.  Some folks have recommended stringing up with a cheap mono and then do a 50-60 yard fluorocarbon bit at the end, others have recommended a braid backing followed by fluorocarbon, while others have suggested both (mono, then braid, and then fluorocarbon).

 

Any advice / recommendations for someone fairly new?  If you have opinions, I’d especially love to hear about which brands you like and the line weights you’d recommend for the backing.  I generally run 8 lb fluoro on the spinning and 10 or 12 lb fluoro on the baitcaster.  I’m mostly casting to structure up and down the bank.  Lots of bottom contact fishing, occasional small swimbaits and chatterbaits.

 

Thank you!

For spinning cheap mono backing (big game or whatever you have laying around) to 20lb braid mainline (any brand is good jbraid, smackdown, etc.) to 8lb fluoro leader. 

 

Cheap mono backing (big game or whatever you have laying around) to fluoro mainline on the baitcaster.

I back with 12lb mono on all of my setups, no use letting that extra mainline go to waste. I get about two spools out of a 150yd spool of braid, a lot better than one + 30-40 yards of line too awkwardly short to do anything with.

31 minutes ago, garroyo130 said:

For spinning cheap mono backing (big game or whatever you have laying around) to 20lb braid mainline (any brand is good jbraid, smackdown, etc.) to 8lb fluoro leader. 

 

Cheap mono backing (big game or whatever you have laying around) to fluoro mainline on the baitcaster.

For the spinning setup, why do braid at all?  Visibility?

I use braid backing…20lb on spinning and whatever I have (usually 50lb) on baitcasters.  I don’t care about the brand of the braid for backing.  Also, you don’t need to put a lot of fluoro over the backing.  I’ve never measured but I would guess I add around 60-70 yards.  The difference in cost between braid and mono is small when you consider how long backing will last.  You can use either…I just prefer braid.

15 pound Berkley Big Game for backing. 

Straight 50 lb Sufix 832 braid tied to spool holes no backing no leaders. Braid backlashes less and is easier to get a backlash out of and does get damaged .

I've gone back and forth.  My first use for braid was backing, especially using old 4x braids on salt reels with working fluoro on top. 

e.g. trolling reel with 350 yds 40-lb braid backing and 30 yds 30-lb leader on top. 

 

When braid caught up to fishing, I went the other way, keeping spool mass low with 20-yds 20-lb mono backing and topping with 20-lb 832 - this casts like a rocket. 

I recommend not using braid for working line on baitcaster until backlash is a distant memory, which our OP has described is not the case. 

 

This was working fluoro backed with YoZuri braid, and got a very good line lay result. 

Braid working line has a lot of advantages on spinning tackle, and like the baitcaster caveat, you need to use manual bail technique to dodge wind knots with braid. 

A problem you run into stacking lines on deeper spinning spools, stacking too deep and finishing too small results in hour-glass line lay, which also promotes wind knots. 

That said, here's the line capacity calculator for stacking lines of two different diameters on fishing reels. 

 

I'll recommend Sufix 832 braid for most working-line braid applications, especially if you're stacking lines on spools made for mono. 

The best way to fish braid on either spin or baitcast is using shallow spools made for braid. 

 

13 minutes ago, bulldog1935 said:

recommend not using braid on baitcaster until backlash is a distant memory. 

Why ? It's way less prone to backlash and easier to get out and backlash doesn't damage it.

I always set up brakes on braid-specific reels I'm building, using cheap, disposable, YoZuri hybrid from a bulk spool - backlash is no worry.  When I have it were I want, I load with the real purpose, e.g., PE#0.8 X-braid.  (it will never backlash again, I built it that way)

Braid is so limp, and can be so fine, it makes sharp 180-degree backlash folds you can't even find without probing with a plastic toothpick.  You don't have that problem with mono. 

The line has nothing to do with backlash tendency.  Back to credulity. 

The OP has described frequent backlash as a concern, and likely doesn't want to spend his day on the bank probing with a plastic toothpick. 

He's also asking for a recommendation he can live with 

That's why I don't go below 12 lb diameter. With today's braking systems you should almost never backlash. They are light years ahead of the old stuff. When you do backlash you push your thumb against the line and reel it on. Then you release and pull. Repeat as needed. I have not had to cut a backlash out in years. I learned on braid and I'm glad I did.

Why use FC line fishing from shore? 

FC line sinks snagging more, high memory dry line that backlashes more, low knot strength and high cost.

Berkley Big Game 12 lb green for your bait casting reel and BG 8 lb clear for the 3500 spinning reel. Cost $7 for 600 yard spools.

When respooling line just use a 75 yd top shot.

Also use Tangle Free line conditioner.

Tom

This is amazing - thank you so much to everyone who responded. I really appreciate all the info.  I’ve learned a lot. 

Anglers have been catching bass with mono fishing line for over 60 years.   All of a sudden you aren't with the program unless you use braid or fluorocarbon?  Braid and flouro have their place.  Braid is tough as nails, which makes fishing in heavy cover workable.  It's also like fishing with rope. It digs into itself and creates tangles that even Alexander the Great (Google it) couldn't untangle.  You can tie leaders onto braid.  That's trading one problem for another.  Fluorocarbon line sinks and is nearly invisible.  It's also kinky as heck. If you want a really bad day, spool up your spinning reel with straight flouro. You'll be "Pickin but not Grinnin". 

 

I use mono on a spinning reel when bass fishing.  It's flexible, forgiving, easy to use, doesn't dig into itself, doesn't wrap around the rod guides and it's cheap.  Most spinning reel line tangles are caused by not flipping the bail over by hand.  Lazy anglers reel the loops onto the spool and wonder why they have a bird's nest on the next cast.  Buy some Berkley Big Game mono, spool it on your reel in the right direction  and stop worrying.  

Shimano doesn’t have a 3500 Stradic reel, probably a 2500. If that is right then suggest using Sunline Super Natural 10 lb. to keep the line diameter .010 max.

Tom