Congrats on the find, Nimbus. If you are talking about the round end being the" pad", and you still have the threaded portion, I would think a piece of scrap wood maybe 1" thick or so should cover you there. Not familiar with the sun dolphin but imagine it has an aluminum section for mounting. Just pinch you a section of wood there.

Thanks for the info Bozz that worked perfectly. Can't wait to get on the water hopfully gonna take it out this weekend. Pictures will soon follow everyone's ideas on here are awesome glad I found this forum before I started tinkering.

Just went through this whole topic,  I just bought a 2014 Nissan Frontier so now I can get one of these boats.  My friend has a 10 foot one that I plan on buying and modifying it this winter.  You guys gave me so many ideas to think about now.  Thanks everyone.

This starts with PAD (Pelican Acquisition Disorder) and quickly develops into PMS (Pelican Modification Syndrome).

This particular long on-going thread contributes to the disease. Read at your own risk.

Oh, it's a disease I can handle LOL

FF and Transducer Mod to my 8Ft Sundolphin

 

PVC vertical rod holders and my small casting deck with in laid battery box.  Might remove this and just secure battery to the floor need the extra room for when my 6 yr old comes out with me. Please give me your opinion.

 

Switches and Lightening gonna add a spot light down the road

As I believe it was Minnow I used some hose I had laying around on my chair bracket rails to both quiet them and keep them from sliding.

 

 I'd like to add a cooler on the bow but I think I have to figure out battery placement to to that anyone have any thoughts on that?

I did that same thing to my seat rails.  

I stand up in mine and fly fish all of the time. It's awesome!

I made a cooler rack out of grown man's Lego's (PVC) that fit in the seat rail grooves. I made it just tall enough so that the Minn Kota battery power case I use would just clear underneath it. I wanted to save as much space as possible & decided to go this route rather than just sit it on the floor. It gets occasional use for those times I'm going to be on the water for extended time. After making it, I realized it was also the perfect place for several vertical PVC rod holders to be included as well as a "shelf" for my Stan Sloan black light. (I do some night fishing in my lil boat too). With a little ingenuity, lots of things can be mounted on this rack. I made a PVC mount for my video camera that simply drops into one of the PVC rod holders and is a snug fit that keeps it secure. Like I said, I don't always take the rack but have it as an option when I want it.

 

One thing to consider here is the height of the rack. I have a rudder on the back of my boat that needs to be tilted when I put in or take out and access to that rudder is more difficult with the cooler rack there. My rudder is made with a Minn Kota trolling motor mount and the trigger is harder to access if you go too high with the cooler rack...and obviously cooler size figures in as well.

 

You can kinda see my PVC cooler rack in the background of this photo below. It's not in the boat in the pic...sitting on a table with the blue cooler in it (it's got a net standing vertical in one of the rod holders). I'll have to look see if I have a pic of the rack & if not I'll snap one when I get by the boat. But you get the idea. If you are using it on the bow of the boat and your battery is mounted up front, trolling motor on the back...I don't see a conflict. Just keep it low as possible to clear that battery and keep weight lower. PVC rack weighs nothing but your cooler might get a little weighty according to how good you are at coercing the fish into taking a chance on your bait/lures...or how many cold drinks you bring along.

 

I guess I need to get busy painting some of my add-ons...I got a pink milk crate, a blue cooler and white PVC cooler rack.

 

Thanks for info on the cooler rack. I think I might abandin the platform so I can drop that battery lower. Its removable so ill take alook and post som pics of the finished product thanks again everyone

Well took the boat out today for the first time everything was going great till we ran into some wind blew us into shallow weeds and we got stuck had be pulled out. Onna upgrade to a bigger motor thinking about a 55. However steering from the rear till that point np. Boat handled like a dream even with me and my son sat plenty high in the water very little roll if any eveb in the higher swells. All in all LOVE IT few small tweeks be perfect.

I need to replace the in line fuse for my Bass raide 10 E. I can not find the 50 amp replacement fuse anywhere. Any suggestions?

Thanks.

What an awesome thread!  I have spent considerable time looking for the answer to my questions, but forgive me if it's been answered here previously.  

 

1) I want to add a fishfinder to my father-in-law's Bass Raider 10E but I don't want to drill anything for the setup since it's not my boat.  I want to be able to remove the fishfinder if I get my own boat one day and leave no trace that it was ever installed.  Is my best best going with a "portable" fishfinder like the Fishin buddy series for this application, or would I be able to install something like the Humminbird 398CI SI Combo (intrigued by the side imaging since my primary lake is an average of 6-10 feet deep) without drilling into the boat?  I've read mention of a suction cup mount for the fishfinder, but due to the smaller screen size of most portable fishfinders or the 398CE SI model, I love what others have done with the PVC "shelf" for mounting the fishfinder to because of the screen at near eye level (plus tackle storage).  

 

2) If installing something like the 398 CI SI is reasonable without drilling, can anyone point me in the direction of step by steps instructions on how to do it so I know the scope of the job before I buy the fishfinder?

 

3) Pardon my ignorance, by I've seen many people recommend mounting the battery in the back, and trolling motor in front.  If it's mounted in the front, do you have to operate the motor in reverse to go forward?  Just trying to wrap my brain around it.  

 

Thanks in advance!

Chris,

I can only answer your third question. Where the control head meets the shaft of your T motor, look for a screw. Loosen or remove that screw and you should be able to turn the head 180 degrees. Then tighten the screw back up and then you will be able to mount it on the bow transom and run it as normal for forward and reverse. Think about mounting a rudder in the rear to help it track better without constantly making directional adjustments.

Hope this helps you.

http://www.basspro.com/Humminbird-110-Fishin-Buddy-Ultimate-Portable-Fishfinder/product/97460/

 

This one should work with your father-in-law's boat.

guys   I have problems with my trolling motor "walking" up the  mounting plate when I use higher power. motor is a motorguide T34. I am going to put a 1" wood board on it today and see if that makes any difference. I haven't been able to put motor down into the last notch on the tilt so it is a few degrees off from perpendicular. the problem there is interference at outside of boat. I may try putting one on inside AND outside to gain the clearance I need.

     if the board/s doesn't fix problem has anybody drilled  through mounting plates for a fix with a mounting plate concoction? I can't help but wonder if the tilt has something to do with the walking problem. thanks in advance and I am off with 250 waxworms on my vacation to terrorize bluegills and maybe some perch.

guys   I have problems with my trolling motor "walking" up the  mounting plate when I use higher power. motor is a motorguide T34. I am going to put a 1" wood board on it today and see if that makes any difference. I haven't been able to put motor down into the last notch on the tilt so it is a few degrees off from perpendicular. the problem there is interference at outside of boat. I may try putting one on inside AND outside to gain the clearance I need.

     if the board/s doesn't fix problem has anybody drilled  through mounting plates for a fix with a mounting plate concoction? I can't help but wonder if the tilt has something to do with the walking problem. thanks in advance and I am off with 250 waxworms on my vacation to terrorize bluegills and maybe some perch.

It happened to me too but only if it was turned to the side, then 1 end kicks up and the motor leans a bit. I cut out some rubber from an old inner tube and glued it onto the end of the screw holder thingamajigs and it sticks nice now, before it was metal on metal.

guys   I have problems with my trolling motor "walking" up the  mounting plate when I use higher power.

It happened to me too but only if it was turned to the side, then 1 end kicks up and the motor leans a bit. I cut out some rubber from an old inner tube and glued it onto the end of the screw holder thingamajigs and it sticks nice now, before it was metal on metal.

 

thanks for rubber tip. I did make one change that helped but didn't solve problem completely. I put the motor on while boat was in bed of truck and get it level as I could then tightened rigorously. didn't move for a long time but gradually loosened and have to be retightened. I will see about getting some rubber pads put on it. I

    I didn't have room to put an 1" piece of wood to allow motor to seat perpendicular to boat. I am thinking that will make a difference as well. looking for a thinner piece of wood.

 

Woody,

I have two suggestions. 1) Tighten the clamps down as tight as you possibly can. 2) I have a 45 thrust TM and I found out the hard way that you should go from stop or slow to full speed slowly (gradually). Going straight to top speed will cause the clamp to walk up on one side or completely come off of the transom at full speed. Not fun!

When I first began considering a small boat, I found this thread in a google search.  What a great source of information & ideas.  Last month, I ended up buying a 10 ft. Pond Prowler and have done a few of the modifications mentioned, with more on the to-do list.  Unfortunately, fishing keeps getting in the way of working on the boat

 

I chose the 10 ft. model over an 8 for space, even though most of my fishing is done alone.  I had been using a small paddleboat previously & while I could fit the 6 rods, 2 tackle boxes & 2 worm bags in it, I really tired of being cramped.  IMO, the extra 2 feet make a world of difference and allow a 2nd person to come along without being on top of each other.

 

I already had a 45lb thrust Motorguide TM, I just switched the head & mounted it on the bow (the PP was prewired for stern battery & bow motor).  The back of the boat did indeed swing a bit, but when I added the rudder as suggested, it completely changed.  If you are maneuvering the boat & casting to targets (as opposed to still fishing or trolling), bow mounted with a rudder will give you the most precise control & most stealthy movement.  For the rudder, I used an old trolling motor with the head removed & motor cut off and added a plexiglass rudder (I don't have any welding experience).  I convinced myself that the clear plexiglass gives the fish one less thing to see poking into the water .  The mount attaches easily to the stern & can be lifted up in shallow water.

 

I also already had a Hummingbird Fishing Buddy 120 depth finder, which I also bow mounted to the left of the TM.  The Pond Prowlers have a more square front than the Bass Raiders, so the portable mount attached simply.  I put it to the left to keep it out of the way because I am right handed and prefer to cast from the starboard (right) side of the boat when moving along a shoreline.  I find it a more natural motion when side arm casting ahead of the boat or skipping under docks.

 

In the back with the Voyager deep cycle battery is a collapsible oar & small anchor.  I will most likely mount it the oar like others have, but not sure if I want it outside of the boat.  Up front I added a Big Foot switch for the TM.  I have used both switches & foot controls in the past & for a small boat while sitting, the Big Foot is actually easier to use.  A foot control is a necessity for a full size bass boat, but a bit cumbersome these smaller ones.  Since the boat is docked at my brothers house, there was no need for a trailer, but I did get a cover from BPS.  Works well so far, & will stretch over the raised TM & depth finder mount.

 

Y'all have convinced me to do the floor modification.  The plastic does get hot & in the summer, I prefer to be barefoot in the boat.  For now I just placed a towel down near the Big Foot, but a boat full of either marine carpet or that other stuff someone posted 40 pages back will be much better.  Although the raised casting decks look real cool, I think I am going to stick with the current rail system & seats (padded & folding).  One of the benefits of these little boats is the stealth and sitting a few inches lower helps in clear water situations. 

 

Now the best part of this never-ending first post.  After the initial modifications, I took the boat out for the first time 3 weeks ago.  In the first 30 minutes, I caught 7 bass, including five in six casts.  A few minutes later, I had another soft peck on my Roboworm, set the hook & watched 20 yards of line get peeled off the reel.  At first I thought it was a catfish, for we have a bunch of big ones here that love grabbing our plastics & crankbaits.  Instead, a big green head & gapping mouth broke the surface and I realized I had hooked a pig.  After I landed her, I quickly went back to my brothers house, woke him out of a deep sleep & made him take a picture of me with her.  She was 8lbs even and a beautiful fish, perfect coloring with no marks on her.  She seemed no worse for the wear as she swam away & I realized what a great way to christen a boat!!

 

The next 2 times I took the boat out, I had 50 fish days.  I really believe the boat had a lot to do with it, for it truly allowed me to position myself as I needed easily without alerting the fish.  Remember, I was using a paddleboat before that, which served its purpose but in no way was designed for stalking largemouths.  The right tools for the job make a huge difference.

 

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread, it really made a difference for me.

 

 

 

Oh yeah, here is a picture of my rudder.  It isn't as trick as the one that came from the Hobie cat, but it was simple to make and does a good job.

 

 

Very nice, my buddy and I are going t get his boat out sometime soon so I can get a look at it.  We are going to go together, but I will mostly be fishing by myself since he has a 16 foot Lund.

 

I am already designing modifications already on how I want the boat to look.