Thanks. I will use the bungee idea. I was also thinking some of the super 3m tape for batt box to floor. I guess it all depends on how hard stop. 

On 5/1/2022 at 6:34 AM, choppertime said:

Has anyone added drain plugs to the rear pontoons,on the lower part of them for easier draining of water,instead of taking everything out to stand the boat on end to drain out of the front drain plugs?

choppertime, look at the video posted by Tuna below.  This is easy to do and makes a huge difference in enjoying this boat...no more bailing.  I followed this same video a couple years ago, and it has held up well.

9 minutes ago, John St said:

choppertime, look at the video posted by Tuna below.  This is easy to do and makes a huge difference in enjoying this boat...no more bailing.  I followed this same video a couple years ago, and it has held up well.

Sorry, the word "below" was a mistake...the video is actually on the prior page....at any rate, in youtube, if you search "scupper drain for bass raider", it is the 11 minute 49 second video with a guy in a blue shirt....sorry I don't know how to attach it.

I've had my 10e for two years now,  I have seen so many cool modifications on this thread, some of them very creative.  I'm curious what everyone's must-have mods are. 

Mine are functional, not creative.  

1.  Scupper drain in back...by far the most important.

2.  Foot switch for trolling motor

3.  Not really a mod, but an accessory.  A retractable line cutter that clips to the seat, so I don't have to open my tackle box every time I have to cut line.

I've only used mine a half dozen times, 1st year with it. I did not do a lot of mods, taking the I'll see what I need as I go idea.

 

So far... anchor rope cleat

Clips for the kayak paddle

Foam for floor

4" Stair tread Anti Slip Tape for the motor mount areas. After getting hung up on a rock I reversed the TM head so I could see where I'm going better. Harder for me to steer but I can see in the water now. If I go from zero to maybe 75% power the motor lifts, sliding up the aluminum.

Little waterproof container attached to the seat and tucked into the seats rear pouch, holds the registration.

Modified a cheap battery box with an accurate state of charge monitor.

That's really it.

 

I would like to come up with a way to stash the rods horizontally on the sides, just haven't done it yet, I'd rather fish then spend my time modifying. Been thinking on a couple Scotty rod holders but I really don't what more crap getting in my way when I'm fishing, so, so far this is just something I'm rolling around in my head.

 

Could also use something to hold my coffee cup, With it on the side in those shallow drink holders I keep knocking it over. Won't be long till I lose it overboard.

 

 

8 hours ago, padlin said:

I've only used mine a half dozen times, 1st year with it. I did not do a lot of mods, taking the I'll see what I need as I go idea.

 

So far... anchor rope cleat

Clips for the kayak paddle

Foam for floor

4" Stair tread Anti Slip Tape for the motor mount areas. After getting hung up on a rock I reversed the TM head so I could see where I'm going better. Harder for me to steer but I can see in the water now. If I go from zero to maybe 75% power the motor lifts, sliding up the aluminum.

Little waterproof container attached to the seat and tucked into the seats rear pouch, holds the registration.

Modified a cheap battery box with an accurate state of charge monitor.

That's really it.

 

I would like to come up with a way to stash the rods horizontally on the sides, just haven't done it yet, I'd rather fish then spend my time modifying. Been thinking on a couple Scotty rod holders but I really don't what more crap getting in my way when I'm fishing, so, so far this is just something I'm rolling around in my head.

 

Could also use something to hold my coffee cup, With it on the side in those shallow drink holders I keep knocking it over. Won't be long till I lose it overboard.

 

 

For the cupholder issue, I bought a metal plate that I screwed into the face of the factory vertical rod holder, then bought a plastic cupholder with magnetic strips on Amazon.  The magnets are very strong and it works well.  It has survived a midwest winter with no issues.   I might be able to find the product if you're interested.

8 hours ago, John St said:

For the cupholder issue, I bought a metal plate that I screwed into the face of the factory vertical rod holder, then bought a plastic cupholder with magnetic strips on Amazon.  The magnets are very strong and it works well.  It has survived a midwest winter with no issues.   I might be able to find the product if you're interested.

Something like these? Cup Holder

Two years in now and I'm in love with this little boat, this pic is from memorial day weekend 2022 and I've added more modifications since then including a scotty anchor and transducer mount in the front. I also added navigational lights upfront that are connected to a small lawn mower battery I have up front. 

 

I've also added a milk crate under my seat to store gear and extra tackle, if anyone is a big guy like myself the crate also helps the aluminum bars from bending down over time. 

On 7/18/2022 at 7:02 AM, padlin said:

Something like these? Cup Holder

Yes, very similar.  Mine is black but same basic design.

Greetings, I am putting a manual trolling motor on the front of my 10e that I will manually operate from the front seat.  What length shaft do I want to put the extended handle at a comfortable height?  36”?

 

thanks?

23 hours ago, johnkn said:

Greetings, I am putting a manual trolling motor on the front of my 10e that I will manually operate from the front seat.  What length shaft do I want to put the extended handle at a comfortable height?  36”?

 

thanks?

I use the endura max 55 with the 36” shaft it’s perfect for sitting and fishing.

2 minutes ago, Born 2 fish said:

I use the endura max 55 with the 36” shaft it’s perfect for sitting and fishing.

The perfect choice for the 10e. Imo

That’s what I have too, the extendable throttle is nice. With the motor down to just clear the pontoons the control head is about 12” up from the motor mount. If I were to do it again I’d probably get the 45 or 50, I don’t use the motor much, mostly anchor to fish.

Thanks all.....

 

.

On 4/30/2023 at 6:55 PM, johnkn said:

Greetings, I am putting a manual trolling motor on the front of my 10e that I will manually operate from the front seat.  What length shaft do I want to put the extended handle at a comfortable height?  36”?

 

thanks?

If you're going to install the trolling motor up front and connect it to the boat via the port in the front make sure you put your battery in a minn kota battery box. I didn't and my fuse blew inside the boat because it couldn't handle the 55lb thrust so now my motor is in the back, i personally like it better that way. I also have an endura max 55lb with 36inch shaft and love it. 

On a different note,  I tried the 55lb on the front, worked okay just putzing around but if I gave it a lot of power it'd lift up at the mount, tried stair tread but still no gobso I moved it back to the rear. Hard to steer with it on the front too, even with a rudder. Anyone have a better way?

1 hour ago, padlin said:

On a different note,  I tried the 55lb on the front, worked okay just putzing around but if I gave it a lot of power it'd lift up at the mount, tried stair tread but still no gobso I moved it back to the rear. Hard to steer with it on the front too, even with a rudder. Anyone have a better way?

I gotta ask, you did rotate the head for bow mount ?

If you give to much thrust while turning sharp, one side will lift up at the mount otherwise I've not had any issues.

I also have the battery, tackle and cooler all in the stern to balance the weight.

 

Yes, the head was rotated. It may well have been while turning sharp, didn't click if it was.

16 hours ago, TriStateBassin106 said:

If you're going to install the trolling motor up front and connect it to the boat via the port in the front make sure you put your battery in a minn kota battery box. I didn't and my fuse blew inside the boat because it couldn't handle the 55lb thrust so now my motor is in the back, i personally like it better that way. I also have an endura max 55lb with 36inch shaft and love it. 

 

Hi, I actually had one of these boats 25 years ago.  There’s a fuse inside the hull that can’t be replaced?  On my last boat I had a pair of Group 27 batteries mounted under the rear seat run in parallel to a fuse at the battery boxes, to the internal wiring to the front.  If there’s a non-replaceable fuse in the hull I need a smaller fuse mounted at the battery.  Any idea what size the fuse on your box is?  If the stock fuse can’t handle the 55, I’ll just drop to the 45 version.  Anyone else have that problem?

 

I’ll be fishing alone 99% of the time and like to sit in the front.

 

Also, what’s the difference in the 10E and your NXT?

 

thank you

 

.

10 hours ago, johnkn said:

 

Hi, I actually had one of these boats 25 years ago.  There’s a fuse inside the hull that can’t be replaced?  On my last boat I had a pair of Group 27 batteries mounted under the rear seat run in parallel to a fuse at the battery boxes, to the internal wiring to the front.  If there’s a non-replaceable fuse in the hull I need a smaller fuse mounted at the battery.  Any idea what size the fuse on your box is?  If the stock fuse can’t handle the 55, I’ll just drop to the 45 version.  Anyone else have that problem?

 

I’ll be fishing alone 99% of the time and like to sit in the front.

 

Also, what’s the difference in the 10E and your NXT?

 

thank you

 

.

The big difference between the 10e and the nxt is really just the color of the boat and the seats. NXT comes with padded seats instead of the hard plastic that the normal 10e comes with. But in regards to the wiring inside the boat the fuse is only 40amps and the inside wiring is 8AWG. My fuse popped after 10 minutes with the 55lb thrust. Here is another thread about the issue. My two cents though is If you want to use the inside wiring you're probably gonna want to use a trolling motor below or at 40lb thrust. 

 

Ah, ok, so no factory fuse buried in the hull, your experience was the overloaded factory wiring/circuit.

 

Thank you Sir...

 

@Bazoo Here’s your Pond Prowler/Bass Raider thread!

@VolFan Wow, thanks. It'll take me a while to read through this one!

I'm working on the thread and am 15 pages in, but I have some anchoring questions.

 

I've been using a mushroom anchors when fishing shallow to hold my spot and I'm wondering: How much line should I use for water in the 3'-6' range? 

 

When using 2 anchors, my buddy and I have tried different amounts and it seems that about 3' extra line is about right. Is that about what everyone else has found to be right?

 

What about when using 1 anchor? Should I use a bit more line?

 

When anchored with 1 line, we spin pretty good with mild wind, would a fixed rudder stop this or just make the spin slower?

Well, I'm up to page 32 now.

 

I decided to work on adding some anchor locks to my Buster boat. I think I'll have to add some metal plates for them to attach to, which might become handy for other things as well.

 

Here's what she looked like a few weeks ago.

 

I use a set of these zig zag cleats off Amazon, if that’s what you mean by anchor locks. They have a fairly big base which allowed me to attach them with some 3m 2 sided VHB tape.