Connecting lighter mono (or braid) to much heavier fluoro leader

[voxborealis]

I mostly bank fish, and where I'm located there are a LOT of northern pike. If I throw any topwater or horizontal presentation (inline spinner, spinner bait, chatter bait, etc) and depending on the time of year, I am as likely to catch a toothy critter as a bass. In the past I used wire leaders to protect against bite offs, but I find even the smaller gauge leaders can foul up the lure action--especially prop baits--since the wire leaders virtually all have a swivel (to connect to main line) and a snap (to connect to the lure).

 

I got a spool of 50# fluorocarbon leader on sale and have been using that instead of wire. I like that I can tie direct, which is great for spinner baits and prop baits. However, the fluoro is very thick and stiff, which makes tying knots a bit challenging. I am also not sure the best knot to use to connect the leader to my main line, which is usually 15# or 20# mono or 20# braid, depending on my combo. (I am using more mono these days than braid for some reason.) The difference in diameter between even 20# mono and 50# fluoro is significant. 

 

I've experimented with using a swivel to connect main to leader, which is ok, but I would prefer to use a line-to-line knot. I usually use an alberto knot to connect braid (main) to lighter fluoro (leader). I am not sure this would work with mono (main) and much thicker leader. Also, I don't know if an albert knot is recommended at all for use with a mono main line. 

 

Any suggestions for knot to connect lines of very different size, when the lines are mono and fluoro? I suppose with 50# leader, no matter what knot I use it's going to be big and clunk around the line guides, so I'll need to keep the leader short.

 

 

[Reel]

I fish the same waters you do and I have found over the years that using a heavy leader or a metal leader is not the solution.  These types of heavy line take away a lot of natural lure action and you end up catching less because you want to save lures.  

When there are a lot of pikes, I use longer surface lures with mono and that helps.  The same with lures like spinnerbaits and chatterbaits.  Using a trailer with a trailer hook helps entice the fish to strike further back.  

The problem is with small pike that have teeth that are close together.  When the line lodges between those razor sharp teeth, the line diameter does not help much.  For larger pike, there is more room between the teeth and you are better off with regular diameter line.  

You can always use a short piece of metal leader line, without snap and swivel, that is knotable, but you will loose some lure action and it sinks.  This is available in Fly Shops. 

I have learned to put up with it.

[A-Jay]

I say ditch the heavy mono and go back to wire.

But use this.

It's made to be tied directly to your mainline.

Uni to uni knot and you're good to go. 

No need for a swivel.

You could add a clip to the working end if you wanted,

I do not.

As for using it on topwater, works with a constantly moving bait but 

I do not use it for poppers. 

Been using this successfully for 10 years plus, and it's a regular part of my standard operation procedure

everywhere there are pike. 

And we have plenty here also.

I talk about the wire at the end of this short clip where it helps account for a fairly repectable pike this past May.

Good Luck 

A-Jay

[voxborealis]

27 minutes ago, Reel said:

I fish the same waters you do and I have found over the years that using a heavy leader or a metal leader is not the solution.  These types of heavy line take away a lot of natural lure action and you end up catching less because you want to save lures.  

When there are a lot of pikes, I use longer surface lures with mono and that helps.  The same with lures like spinnerbaits and chatterbaits.  Using a trailer with a trailer hook helps entice the fish to strike further back.  

The problem is with small pike that have teeth that are close together.  When the line lodges between those razor sharp teeth, the line diameter does not help much.  For larger pike, there is more room between the teeth and you are better off with regular diameter line.  

You can always use a short piece of metal leader line, without snap and swivel, that is knotable, but you will loose some lure action and it sinks.  This is available in Fly Shops. 

I have learned to put up with it.

Thanks!  In truth. I am not sure if I have ever had more than one or two bite offs ever. Even when a pike grabs a lure when I am using my smaller spinning set up and light line, most of the time the fish grabs the back of the lure and front where it connects to the line is out of its mouth. Especially since I am fishing from the back, where the biggest pike are usually at most 26" or 28" inches, and most are smaller. You're right that I am probably worrying to much about losing the lure and should tie direct.

25 minutes ago, A-Jay said:

I say ditch the heavy mono and go back to wire.

But use this.

It's made to be tied directly to your mainline.

Uni to uni knot and you're good to go. 

No need for a swivel.

You could add a clip to the working end if you wanted,

I do not.

As for using it on topwater, works with a constantly moving bait but 

I do not use it for poppers. 

Been using this successfully for 10 years plus, and it's a regular part of my standard operation procedure

everywhere there are pike. 

And we have plenty here also.

I talk about the wire at the end of this short clip where it helps account for a fairly repectable pike this past May.

Good Luck 

A-Jay

Also thanks!  I sometimes use a very light wire leader (like 12#) and it seems not to interfere with action too much. I have tried cutting off the small swivel and just tying directly to the loop on the wire. I have read about tie-able wire before but never used. This is another good option. Thanks!

[TnRiver46]

If braid is not involved, a triple surgeons knot is my go to for connecting dissimilar diameter lines . Quick and easy to tie as well 

[bulldog1935]

I've been tying dissimilar diameters and MOC for 4 decades using Allbright knot.  

Everything from king mackerel to endemic river bass.  

(PE#1 braid to equivalent PE#3 fluoro leader, 15+5 Improved Allbright knot)

 

 

backing up to fly-rod kings in the '90s, I used the same wire @A-Jay posted, 30-lb leader butt wrapped a 6-turn Allbright, perfection loop made steel leaders I could exchange.  Short leader-butt on the fly line gave me quick loop-to-loop leader swaps.  

Sorry no king photo, but here's a Smack.