I installed a Gomexus handle on my Bantam, and it started fine but loosened up and would have play when I had the spool locked down. The feeling is like when the drag is loose, and has about 5mm of play back and forth before it hits the anti reverse. Am I missing a washer somewhere? I tried putting the stock handle back on and this issue stayed. The threads also feel like they are bottoming out when I use the washers supplied from Gomexus. It would get tight, but when I tightened it more, it would loosen. Does anyone have any insight? Thanks!

If you tighten it down and then it loosens that sounds like stripped threads.

Your drag star is not seated properly, and prevents your handle from seating on the mainshaft shoulder - you won't be able to tighten the handle nut completely.

The drag star is keyed to M8 nut (4700) on mainshaft with a spring (4699) that keeps the drag star pushed to max height.

You need to get star aligned on nut and pushed all the way down, and hold it there against the spring while you install the handle and handle nut.

Bantam schematic - this is your reel, and this is the correct answer.

Different reel, but this is mainshaft shoulder.

With the drag star properly aligned and seated on the square nut, mainshaft shoulder will stick above top of drag star.

On some reels, not all, but on some reels it is necessary to crank down the drag star tightening the drag close to maximum in order to get the handle to seat properly.

If the drag is backed off when trying to install some handles, it may not seat well because drag star is in the way and that is what the handle may be tightening down on, not the shaft's handle seat.

If you tighten the handle against the drag star, as soon as you try and tighten down the drag, now the handle will be loose.

So on some reels, tighten down the drag star beyond halfway and make sure it is out of the way of a good handle seating on the shaft. Then tighten down the handle nut, and now when you back off the drag star it will stop once it contacts the backside of a well seated handle.

I actually started writing either threaded drag star or sprung-keyed drag star, but I looked up his schematic and cut to the chase. Keyed drag star is where most will find this exact trouble.

Since he's not building an Ambassadeur from scratch, no need to confuse him.

Going to take a guess at this but I think it's one of two things, having a few of these Gomexus handles myself and also one on a Bantam......

First guess, maybe the wrong size was purchased or shipped. The Shimano handle for that reel is a 7x4mm. If OP installed a 8x5mm, it will be fine at first and then as the cap settles in, it will loosen up.

Second guess, these handles come with a few washers/shims to add to the handle. It's not like the regular Shimano handle that has a 10mm nut with a cap over it. There is actually a cap that you can only tighten down so far. If you do not install the correct amount of washers, it's easy to over tighten and strip the cap (ask me how I know). Also, if the cap is installed ok without the extra washers, and you have the drag loose, there is enough pressure to hold the handle in place. If you tighten the drag down, it loosens up.

There is also a left and right hand version for the nut.

5 hours ago, bulldog1935 said:

Your drag star is not seated properly, and prevents your handle from seating on the mainshaft shoulder - you won't be able to tighten the handle nut completely.

The drag star is keyed to M8 nut (4700) on mainshaft with a spring (4699) that keeps the drag star pushed to max height.

You need to get star aligned on nut and pushed all the way down, and hold it there against the spring while you install the handle and handle nut.

Bantam schematic - this is your reel, and this is the correct answer.

Different reel, but this is mainshaft shoulder.

With the drag star properly aligned and seated on the square nut, mainshaft shoulder will stick above top of drag star.

Yup, Shimano drag stars are tricky like that. When being installed, they must be lined up perfectly.

@newapti5

Recent Daiwa also - Zillion, Steez, Ryoga all use like square-nut and keyed drag star

4 minutes ago, bulldog1935 said:

@newapti5

Recent Daiwa also - Zillion, Steez, Ryoga all use like square-nut and keyed drag star

Ah right, I almost forget about that, after dealing mostly old Daiwa reels recently.

@newapti5 - the same set-up is widespread on Revo, Lew's, Doyo and Banax derivatives. When I was shedding offset weight recently on Ali Express Sabre JH100 in salt finesse niche,

was happy to find the original drag star from my ZPI Alcance fit right in place of the heavy alloy + steel part, and looked right, too, with the carbon handle swap. It even matched the drag-adjust-detente clicker. Sabre copied Daiwa drive and Revo drag clicker.

Alcance with original part, and with ZPI upgrades, pentagram star drag, and magnesium braid spool.

They don't get a lot of love, but these are the two fastest spools I own.

18 hours ago, FishTank said:

Going to take a guess at this but I think it's one of two things, having a few of these Gomexus handles myself and also one on a Bantam......

First guess, maybe the wrong size was purchased or shipped. The Shimano handle for that reel is a 7x4mm. If OP installed a 8x5mm, it will be fine at first and then as the cap settles in, it will loosen up.

Second guess, these handles come with a few washers/shims to add to the handle. It's not like the regular Shimano handle that has a 10mm nut with a cap over it. There is actually a cap that you can only tighten down so far. If you do not install the correct amount of washers, it's easy to over tighten and strip the cap (ask me how I know). Also, if the cap is installed ok without the extra washers, and you have the drag loose, there is enough pressure to hold the handle in place. If you tighten the drag down, it loosens up.

There is also a left and right hand version for the nut.

this sounds like exactly my issue. I will go check if mine is 8x5 as I know bantam uses 7x5. What happens if my nut is stripped? Are the L and R nuts different threads? How many washers did you use? I think mine was tight with the medium sized washer.

I am curious about the size differences between handles and if maybe the nut is not enough, and some washers or spacers may be needed?

What are the handles thickness differences? Is this a factor?

24 minutes ago, alphv said:

this sounds like exactly my issue. I will go check if mine is 8x5 as I know bantam uses 7x5. What happens if my nut is stripped? Are the L and R nuts different threads? How many washers did you use? I think mine was tight with the medium sized washer.

When I over cranked the nut on my first one, I contacted Gomexus and they kindly sent me another one. I don't know if they will do the same.

I think I used one or two. I would have to take it apart to see for sure.

The left and right nut are different threads.

here's the shim washer Amazon sells to fit 8x5-mm Daiwa/Abu/Lew's handle on 7x4-mm Shimano mainshaft.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCK9DFC

LH wind uses LH thread, RH uses RH. Shimano thread is M7

If you can’t tell putting a 8x4 on a crank designed for 7x4 then you certainly have a problem. The Gomexus handles generally come with an adapter like @bulldog1935 recommended. In fact, he’s covered every scenario on this thread to help you. Btw, if your nut is stripped, you’ll need a new nut. I know, hard to phantom. 💯

Ill give you a like Scotty. Nice about alloy nuts, they strip instead of stripping mainshaft threads.

Try hand fit up of nut without the handle to determine if it's stripped. You can always use the old M7 nut while you replace the color nut you want.

Also, handle nuts are too easy to cross thread. Make sure they're turning freely by hand before you tighten with a wrench, or you'll strip them for sure.

________________

Show and tell for @F14A-B - Zzeta Abu handle on 7x4-mm mainshaft with Amazon shim, but couldn't use Zzeta socket-head M8 nut.

So I used a Shimano M7 spindle end tension cap, and 9x1.5 mm square o-ring to tension the joint- works great.

Yes they’re incredibly soft and I have several extra for that reason, both for Daiwa & Shimano, plus shims for both. Definitely easy to strip. Also with Gomexus handle kits you get shims, nuts, adapters for about every size main shaft. Nuts for lefty & for righty. I have one setting in a drawer that became annoying, the carbon knobs spin forever when retrieving. So I ordered a Studio Composite based on Ron’s recommendation.

33 minutes ago, bulldog1935 said:

Ill give you a like Scotty. Nice about alloy nuts, they strip instead of stripping mainshaft threads.

Try hand fit up of nut without the handle to determine if it's stripped. You can always use the old M7 nut while you replace the color nut you want.

Also, handle nuts are too easy to cross thread. Make sure they'll turning freely by hand before you tighten with a wrench, or you'll strip them for sure.

________________

Show and tell for @F14A-B - Zzeta Abu handle on 7x4-mm mainshaft with Amazon shim, but couldn't use Zzeta socket-head M8 nut.

So I used a Shimano M7 spindle end tension cap, and 8x1mm square o-ring to tension the joint- works great.

Square O rings, that’s a great solution..

On 2/10/2026 at 3:22 PM, bulldog1935 said:

Your drag star is not seated properly, and prevents your handle from seating on the mainshaft shoulder - you won't be able to tighten the handle nut completely.

The drag star is keyed to M8 nut (4700) on mainshaft with a spring (4699) that keeps the drag star pushed to max height.

You need to get star aligned on nut and pushed all the way down, and hold it there against the spring while you install the handle and handle nut.

Bantam schematic - this is your reel, and this is the correct answer.

Different reel, but this is mainshaft shoulder.

With the drag star properly aligned and seated on the square nut, mainshaft shoulder will stick above top of drag star.

I did this with the stock handle, where the plastic washer sat on the 2nd row of thread, but there is still play.

Video of what it looks like:https://youtube.com/shorts/fFrpc5YjE7U?feature=share

Did you verify the handle was sitting on the mainshaft shoulder and hold it there while you install the handle nut?

If handle is seated on the mainshaft shoulder and you have the handle nut threads aligned on the mainshaft, you should be able to finger-turn the nut about 6 full turns until it bottoms out, and the handle will be square and snug. Then you should only need a wrench to tighten about a quarter-turn (or less).

You're either cross-threading the handle nut, or tightening the drag star misaligned on top of the square nut (4700) instead of aligned and seated.

This is the right aftermarket star drag, has the adjustment-clicker boss on the top face.

The square nut 4700 must sit recessed in the square key in order for you to push against the spring and expose the mainshaft shoulder above the top washer. If the square nut is sitting on the star-drag internal shoulder, the handle isn't sitting on the mainshaft shoulder.

If you have that part right, then the only other explanation is you have the handle nut cross-threaded, and only think it's tight.

_____________________

OK, went digging and found one. Mainshaft shoulder above drag star face. If you can't see this, you can't install a handle.

Only on your reel, you have to push the aligned drag star down against the spring to see this, and hold it here while you install the handle.

1 hour ago, bulldog1935 said:

Did you verify the handle was sitting on the mainshaft shoulder and hold it there while you install the handle nut?

If handle is seated on the mainshaft shoulder and you have the handle nut threads aligned on the mainshaft, you should be able to finger-turn the nut about 6 full turns until it bottoms out, and the handle will be square and snug. Then you should only need a wrench to tighten about a quarter-turn (or less).

You're either cross-threading the handle nut, or tightening the drag star misaligned on top of the square nut (4700) instead of aligned and seated.

This is the right aftermarket star drag, has the adjustment-clicker boss on the top face.

The square nut 4700 must sit recessed in the square key in order for you to push against the spring and expose the mainshaft shoulder above the top washer. If the square nut is sitting on the star-drag internal shoulder, the handle isn't sitting on the mainshaft shoulder.

If you have that part right, then the only other explanation is you have the handle nut cross-threaded, and only think it's tight.

_____________________

OK, went digging and found one. Mainshaft shoulder above drag star face. If you can't see this, you can't install a handle.

Only on your reel, you have to push the aligned drag star down against the spring to see this, and hold it here while you install the handle.

yes, that is what I see. How can I tell if my nut is cross threaded? I only took this nut off once, and the threads look good to me

1 hour ago, bulldog1935 said:

If handle is seated on the mainshaft shoulder and you have the handle nut threads aligned on the mainshaft, you should be able to finger-turn the nut about 6 full turns until it bottoms out, and the handle will be square and snug. Then you should only need a wrench to tighten about a quarter-turn (or less).

6 full turns by finger to tight and the handle is square and snug. If the nut binds up with the handle loose, you're cross threaded.

Try turning the nut backwards until it finds the right thread start, then tighten it by hand.

6 full turns by hand.

Varies a bit by handle style, but round recesses in alloy and especially carbon handles should be filled with these keyed stainless washers that match the mainshaft end.

This way, you're tightening on stainless steel rather than carbon/resin or soft alloy.

Adding ps - tightening the socket head nut (torx) on Gomexus handle will meet resistance from the rubber o-ring. It will require using the tool for final 3 turns to tight. Before that, you should still be able to free turn enough by hand to recognize the threads are aligned.

Do me a favor. Don't swap gears or drive bearings in your reel.

20 hours ago, F14A-B said:

If you can’t tell putting a 8x4 on a crank designed for 7x4 then you certainly have a problem. The Gomexus handles generally come with an adapter like @bulldog1935 recommended. In fact, he’s covered every scenario on this thread to help you. Btw, if your nut is stripped, you’ll need a new nut. I know, hard to phantom. 💯

Ouch!

I just took a look at the video of the reel in question and as I was watching it I went and grabbed a couple of my own similar Curado HG reels and observed the exact same handle movement play as shown in his video.

At this time based on available information I can conclude there is nothing wrong with this reel and the movement or play in his reel is normal play from the reel itself dealing with tolerances and allowances within, such as the AR bearing clutch sleeve movement added to the AR movement, added to the gears play movement all adding up to some back and forth play in his handle that is NOT related to the handle to shaft issue.

In the video it appears to me the reel has the factory handle on it and appears to me to be all stock. If so, then based on other similar reels I am copying his motion movements, from what I can tell there is absolutely NOTHING wrong with his reel. Just normal play.

Now if the OP puts an aftermarket handle on it and has some other type of movement or play to it, then maybe that will need to be addressed, but for now the video shows me a stock reel and normal play. My own reels do it and nothing wrong with any of them.

Just my opinion at this time based on new video from the OP.

To the OP, you can copy and paste into a comment here on this forum the URL link to your video so all the members here can see it as well. I think it would greatly help us all dial it in.

Just noticed the video. That looks like normal back and forth on most, if not all, Shimano reels. My fishing buddy has a few Curado B's that move back forth twice as far and they operate and bring in fish just fine.

10 minutes ago, FishTank said:

Just noticed the video. That looks like normal back and forth on most, if not all, Shimano reels. My fishing buddy has a few Curado B's that move back forth twice as far and they operate and bring in fish just fine.

I agree.

I pulled out 3 of my own Curado 201HG's today and checked them. 2 have similar play. 1 more than the other. And the 3rd had no play at all and yet all 3 reels work perfectly fine no issues. So I made a similar video to his this morning...

Side note, the rod is amplifying the noise. So in my video the reel on a rod is louder than the reel not on a rod. And I was accidentally hitting something with the rod tip adding in noise not associated to the reel noise. But all completely normal from what I can tell.