FishTank

There is all sorts of stuff I usually pick up that I can't get here or you can't get at a decent price. My list below is from either JLS or Digitaka. I go through each one on occasion. Varivas Seabass X9 Sunline Invisible FC Seaguar R18 LTD Sunline Grand Max and Grand Max FX Ryugi Infini EWG hooks Ryugi Hobbit hooks Ryugi Pierce treble hooks Ryugi Brutal treble hooks BKK Spear 21-SS trebles Hayabusa Hyper Tornado hooks Hayabusa TNS hooks Hayabusa D Striker Swim and Wacky jig heads Jungle Gym Bean Sinkers Ryugi Nail Weight Zappu RPG hook and Grenade weights I always get at least one pack of OSP DoLive Beavers, SAWAMURA One up Shad 3inch, and either some Bellows Gills or Deps Bull Flats when I place a JDM order.

@FloridaFishinFool I am not sure at this point but if my repair guy did add oil or grease to AR mechanism, what could that potentially do to my reel?

Well the hot unfishable weather brought out the Bait Monkey. This is from three orders. I picked up another KastKing reel, the Icon. I'm going to use it for frogs. I got lucky and found it at Sportsmans Warehouse on clearance for $65. I thought why not. I also ordered some stuff from JLS including some braid from Evergreen that claims its for frogs and flipping. It looks like 832.

Funny you should mention grease because that thought crossed my mind. I had this reel completely torn down and cleaned this spring for the first time. My guy told me he uses Lucas Oil Products of which I have used the oil and it's not bad. If he used the grease and if Google is correct, it has a temp rating of 140 degrees but I don't know if that would cause the issue.

I got an odd one for you guys...... Well I caught what I believe is a new personal best largemouth yesterday but just before this occurred, I caught a hard fighting 3-4lb catfish. I noticed when bringing it in that the anti-reverse mechanism was not working properly. All of sudden I could back reel. So the bail was spinning either backwards or forwards depending on which way I turned the handle. Then it started to sort of work again but it would be missing in a spot here and there. I thought it was a fluke and just continued to fish. Two casts later, I hooked into a bass that was 10lbs plus. It was wider than my PA14 and after netting it , it was just banging on my rods so I put it on the front latch. I got a hold of her, she shook hard and I lost her over the side of my kayak before I could take a picture or make an attempt measure and weigh it. I was bummed but it will live in my head forever. Anyway, back to the reel. After my PB going overboard, I spent the next few minutes trying what I could to figure out if my reel was going to work or was totally busted. I kept casting and reeling to see if it would stop but no luck. I checked the drag by loosing it and then tightening it back down. Still no good. I took the spool off and put it back on. Again nothing changed. So I then decided to retire it for rest of the day with hopes of getting it fixed. Fast forward to this morning.... I took it back out again just to test it and give it one more look over before I drop it off to my local repair guy (I gave up on fixing spinning reels 15+ years ago). Oddly, the reel performed fine. I caught four fish with no issues. It was like the oddness of the back reeling never happened. I looked at the reels diagram before I left to fish and the anti-reverse seems to be this piece of round plastic (guessing) with some springs and pins. I thought this has got to be my issue. In my mind if this part breaks, there is no way it can just fix itself. So my question is, has anyone come across something like this? In all my years of fishing, I have not had this happen and haven't seen it happen on any other reel. It's one thing for a reel to have broken parts but something completely different for it to just start working flawlessly again. The only thing I can think of was the heat. It was about 90 degrees but we had a heat index of around 100 and it was probably hotter on the floor of my kayak. I had a few discarded pieces of soft plastic that totally melted. My guess is the reel cooled and then it was fine but how is this possible. I'm stumped on this one. What do you guys think?

Not on that part but I used Gorilla glue on my Daiwa Silver Wolf on the zero adjuster (cast control cap) that would not stay in place and on a stripped line guide cap as well. Both are still holding.

I use Gorilla glue for most things related to my kayak and Loctite Super Glue for most everything else. Not sure which one would be best for this application. Gorilla Glue has a few waterproof versions that might work better but again, I think this might ok as is. Glueing it would seal the crack giving you better peace of mind. My disclaimer.....It would be best to see it in person to know how deep the crack goes. Also, you can always have a professional look it over like @Delaware Valley Tackle .

What I was suggesting is that if he uses glue, the brake can be pushed on the glue, creating surface to surface contact with frame and the brake. This will make for a stronger hold and allow him to push the glue into the crack. Sort of like how the cover of a book is glued to pages (if that makes sense).

If you know, you know.

I have been wearing these guys from Korker's. The soles are removable and you can put new ones on when they wear out. They have three different types based on the type of tread you want. I have tried many other sandals over the years and there is hiking pair from Teva that has a non slip sole. They may have been discontinued but they were the best and most comfortable. Also, once again, I beg you do not wear Crocs. They are a death trap as they have no slip resistance to them. Once they get near a wet surface, you might as well be on an ice skating rink. I have seen so many injuries with them, it's nuts. This year alone I have seen two ambulances called to the boat ramps because of these shoes. I say this and I myself have fallen (twice on the same day) in Crocs about 10 days ago. I got a call from one my buddies that he needed help with getting his boat back in during some high winds and his boat was taking on water. I was close by the lake so I headed over. I had to get in the waters edge to help get the boat on the trailer and I slipped and fell in the Crocs I had on. I hit my head on the trolling motor, fell and fractured my ring finger and sprained my wrist. Then when draining the water out of the boat, I slipped and hit my tail bone. Since it has been about 100 degrees for a week, I haven't fished so I haven't been too upset about it. Today is the first day I have been able to type without pain. I will also add that the DNR had just put chemicals in to kill the blue green algae outbreak. This makes the gunk push up to the bank and boat ramps, making it the worse case scenario.

The Yum is the cheapest but it is not the best made in my opinion. I like the ones from Picasso and Hog Farmers. The most important thing to me with an A-rig is for it to flex so it looks like a school of escaping fish, which means you need to match the wire to the size baits and heads you are using. Too light of baits, on lets say the Yum, and it won't flex. Too heavy on the Mini Flex Rig and it could cause the lures it touch. You also need to bend the wires out of the package correctly (see video). One last thing, there is no magic one that will not bend on a fish. You will need to reset the wires (unless it's a dink) each time. It takes two seconds.

Like what was already said, I don't think it will affect anything. I would glue the crack and the brake against the frame next to the crack that way it will bond to a surface. Of course, you won't be able to use that brake but it should function fine. When I had several of those reels, I don't think I turned more than two brakes on anyway. Also, you said you got it for a good deal. Just curious what you paid for it. You might also find a parts reel on eBay.

Looks similar to the Raid Fishroller.

I have several that I like.... Seaguar Gold Label Seaguar Grand Max and Grand Max FX Daiwa Saltiga Xlink Varivas AAA Absolute Seaguar Tatsu (left over filler spool) For me, the important part is to find a line that pairs well with braid I'm using. Some tend to hold a knot better than others.

I had another thought on this, now that you mention the 844 GLX being a little too light. I recently went through the Expediter service that Loomis has for an 803C GLX and the new rod was lighter and a little softer than the one I had for 15+ years. Not a big deal. It has more of a JDM feel to it which I like but I am not sure how that would translate to a newer version of the 844C. The ones I have, have the older and slightly stiffer blank. Since you already have it, you can just test it out and find out for yourself. Unless the bait monkey is after you, the best rod sometimes is the one you already own. Also, I have looked at the 895 GLX JWR and I ended up buying the NRX+ version. Both rods are pretty stiff and sensitive but they are almost like a broom stick. The NRX+ works great for pulling fish from cover on a jig or punch weight but I didn't care for it for topwater especially with braid. The rod also feels almost two powers heavier than the 844C.

Have you tried fishing the ORC on a slow stop and go retrieve? I found that if fish it quick, fish seem to run away from it.

OSP Daibuzzin Heavy Hitter and Co Buzzin, Megbass ORC, and an old discontinued Lucky Craft bait, I think it's called the LC CB-50 DRS. If you can find one, there is nothing else like it. It has that one knocker sound that drives fish crazy.

844C but I have an older version in the GLX and the IMX. Both work for frogs, jigs, heavier soft plastic, etc. It is a compromise though. There are other rods that will do each individual thing better. It's still a great rod and one of my favorites.

I've caught a few on it. I like to throw it in spots where I am making short casts. Not sure why it makes a difference but if I am going to cover water with long casts, I am using a Jack Hammer and for stuff like docks, brush or lay downs I like the Jigsaw. When fished together they make a good one, two punch. Another one for short casts that I like is the OSP Metal Blade jig. I like it for same reasons as the Jigsaw but it has a weed guard.

@Justbass11 I would say it depends on the taper and what rods they are.

Shimano Calcutta Conquest 100/101....I have yet to find anything that is as bullet proof as this reel and at the JDM price, it's hard to beat. It's small and easy to palm, cast effortlessly, and can handle just about anything you through at it.

If its in your budget, I'd look at the Megabass P5 Daemos. I use it for 4in swimbaits, spinnerbaits, some topwater and bladed jigs. I have also thrown shallow crankbaits on it. Its soft enough in the middle to pin fish on treble hooks but there are better options for deeper diving cranks.

When it comes to skipping I really don't think of line as a primary concern. I will also admit that I am not the best at it but I can hold my own. When it comes to line though, I like 12-16lb Fluorocarbon or 50lb Braid to leader but I also skip crankbaits on 7lb Fluorocarbon and senkos on light PE line with a 10lb leader so I really don't have a set favorite I guess. I think under ideal conditions (perfect boat positioning, low wind, a good flat bait and an easy target), I would go with 12lb Seaguar R18 LTD or 14lb Sunline Invisible.

I use 10lb fluorocarbon, currently R18 LTD. As long as I don't let a topwater bait sit too long, fluorocarbon works fine since it is what I prefer for jerkbaits. If I think the fish need a slower presentation, I go to mono on a different set up.

Each year I become overly irritated at the amount of line I get hung up in. It doesn't matter if I am flipping a jig or running a crankbait, I will at least once or twice get caught in someone else's break off line through out the day. I think I have pulled enough 832 off of stumps and rocks to fill every reel I own. So my question is do you guys cut your line or do you make an attempt to pull it out and what method do you use? I was watching this and thought, if there is a will there is a way. Also, it shows me what it takes to be a pro angler. There is no way I would have the skill or even the nerve to attempt this. It's pretty cool though. Hopefully this starts at 19:24.