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alabamabassmaster

When to use Fluorocarbon line

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We use it for soft jerk baits because it sinks which helps get the bait to run a little deeper.

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I use it for jigs and soft plastics for the added sensitivity and hook setting power. Also, it is less visible than mono, which can help you get more bites in clear water.

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I use it for everything now, except topwater, frogs, and flipping heavy weeds.

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The only time I use mono now is with top waters. Fluoro, or fluoro + braid is what most of my fishing is done with.

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I use fluoro on all my rods except the topwater rod.  It sinks so well that it will drag your baits under with it.  Fluorocarbon is sensitive and durable but the real reason I use it is the invisibility factor.  If you fish clear water I feel that it is the way to go.  I have no confidence in a bait if it appears that there is rope tied to it.  It may just be in my head but I think I get 3 bites to every 1 when comparing fluro to clear mono.

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Is Fluorocarbon line good on spinnerbaits and crankbaits or is mono best?

What is the main difference in Fluorocarbon other than visibility? Is it stronger than mono, I know it cost more but is it worth it?

If it can be used on crankbaits, spinnerbaits and plastics, what lb test is recommended? (I like bigger line, hate to lose a fish) lol

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alabama I hear guys all the time ask me a question about is the line too big. The only thing you need to worry about in line size is for finesse use no more than 8 pound in fluro 12 pound in braid. Cranks strictly 12 pound fluro. Plastics and jigs any where  from 14 to 25 pound fluro.

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alabama I hear guys all the time ask me a question about is the line too big. The only thing you need to worry about in line size is for finesse use no more than 8 pound in fluro 12 pound in braid. Cranks strictly 12 pound fluro. Plastics and jigs any where from 14 to 25 pound fluro.

My Jig rods I use 50lb braided Spiderwire, is the fluro tougher and better?

I'm going to use 12lb on my cranks and spinnerbait rods and see how it works. For my plastics I think I'll start with 12, if I start breaking it I'll go tougher.

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Well, since this Fluorocarbon line is so expensive I can only spool probably one reel with it. I got the 12lb Clear, 200yd for $20. (errr)

Which reel would you choose first to spool? (Need help making the decision,lol)

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Alabamabassmaster,

Please consider using a "filler" line and tie the more expensive line to it on your spool.

You can therefore use the higher price line to fish while the lower price line acts as a filler.

Try to get the lines the same diameter and tie them together with a Uni-Knot.

So how much expensive line do you put on the reel?

Take the set up into your yard and put a bait on it and cast it as far as possible. Then add 10 more yards and you are set.

Works with both baitcasters and spinning reels.

And with 12 pound test, I would suggest spooling your baitcaster first.  :)

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Thanks for the info, that's the way I spool my spiderwire braid reels because that stuff is high too.

I'll probaby spool my t-rigged reels first and see how they fish and go from there.

I'm also thinking about changing my SpiderWire Green 50lb braid to that new Invisi-braid Spiderwire has out. Ever tried it?

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There are only two occasions where I DON'T use fluorocarbon: Fishing jigs, plastics and frogs in heavy weeds (I use braid here) and when throwing any floating topwater, like a spook (I use mono here). Fluorocarbon is nearly invisable underwater, and it sinks vs. Mono, which floats, which is why I use mono for topwaters. However, I find that flourocarbon excels when throwing crankbaits and jerkbaits because it helps them get down a little deeper and stay deeper. It also gets the nod when I am fishing clear water, or useing a general finesse technique, like drop-shotting. However, it is NOT without its flaws. Fluoro frays rather easily, and is notorious for gaining weak points throughout a days fishing, resulting in lost lures or even fish. You should retie often. In conclusion, EXPARIMENT. Throw a crankbait on 12 lb mono, then the same lure on 12 lb fluoro, and see what you like better! TIGHT LINES!

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It took me a while to finally try fluorocarbon for jigs and worms. Even after I decided that I would try it I had a little difficulty deciding which one to use. My initial resistance to using it was due to lack of knowledge about different manufacturers lines abrasion resistance, tensile strength, and knot strength in comparison to the line I was using, P-Line CXX. After reading up on the fluorocarbons available I realized that they had come a long way in just a few years.

I was still a little hesitant because I was concerned about the way it would increase the fall rate of my jigs and worms due to its sinking properties. I thought the increased ROF might be a deterrent to bass during the colder months. Even then I did not know if the increased ROF would be substantial enough. I'm still not completely sure if the the slower ROF of a jig with P-Line CXX results in more bites during the colder months.

What I do like about the fluorocarbon I use is its great sensitivity and less stretch. And because it sinks it helps me stay in contact with my lures much easier. I've also noticed that I don't have to set the hook as hard, especially when fishing deeper.

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