I have way too much equipment, most of it for saltwater. As far as freshwater bass are concerned I basically use 2 setups and they aren't too much different, fairly light spinning. I have $35 reels performing like new for years and can say the same for $200 ones as well, getting equal enjoyment from both. IMO spending $600 or more to catch 2-3lb LMB for a recreational fisherman is act of lunacy. I love catching bass as much as the next guy, but they really don't tax my equipment, couple jumps and they are done. If one can justify it go for it, I can't.

Commit me to the nut house cause I LOVE catching 2# LMB on my steez spinning combo that cost  $1000. 8-) 8-) 8-)

Always, quality over quantity.

Here ya go:

Maybe this will help:

http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1141187546

Specifically:

Technique specific rods are for "enthusiasts".

Almost all your fishing can be done with just

one rod. Beyond that, you only "need" three rods:

Spinning: 6 1/2' or 7', M or MH, Fast Action

(soft plastics and light lures)

Baitcasting: MH or H, Fast Action

(jigs, spinnerbaits, buzzbaits and all single hooks)

Baitcasting: MH, Moderate Action

(all treble hook lures)

8-)

Quality is the best way to go... if you choose quantity what happens is that junk that worked fine when you first got it wont make through a year or two of fishing... it also depends on what you define a quality. to me i like both quality and quantity!!! but im a tackle junkie and having 25 setups in my boat suits my style cause im on the water so much i need equipment that will take the abuse i put mine through so quality to me is a reel that is at least a minimum of $250 and a rod that is a minimum of $200 but if you dont fish like that then you might not need expensive equipment like that

I do a mix of both.  My primary tactics rod get the quality, my secondaries get somewhat less quality but not garbage.

First string gets Daiwa Certate and Revo Premiers and Elites

Second string gets Revo STX or SX.

Rods would be Evergreen or Megabass for top

Abu or Falcon for seconds.  Abu replaced Daiwa.

Works for me.

Quality. I fish in a kayak, so I don't carry much tackle, but the 3-4 combos that I take with me are the best I can afford (or rather that I am willing to pay for) and they include:

Three Curado e7s and one Quantum Energy PT riding on three AllStar Platimums and one St. Croix C3 Custom.

The rods are all 6'6" because that is how I like to fish in a 'yak, up close and personal.

They are a 6'6" M Fast for topwater, jerkbaits, and Traps,

a 6'6" M XFast for spinnerbaits, a MH XFast for frogs, and a MH Fast for worms/creature baits. That's how I fish.

If budget is an issue, there are ways to still get expensive nice setups, and save some money. Crankbaits, Spinnerbaits, Frogs, and other baits you don't necessarily need all the sensitivity for, you can skimp on these rods and then spend the extra on bottom bait rods.

I personally think after experiencing both ways, that it's better to slowly buy expensive setups than buy a bunch of crappy ones.

Quality over quantity.....My advice to you is always buy the best you can afford.

It's all about what you deem acceptable.

For me, I have two price points for reels:

$100 on most name brand baitcasters.

$50 on most name brand spinning reels.

I don't go under those retail price points because over the years I've found that's about where the line between acceptable performance and cost cutting tends to lie. I'll tend to pay more for performance from a baitcaster than a spinning reel as well, simply because casting performance is more affected by the reel on a baitcaster than a spinning reel, and spinning reels at about that price point are generally well made by the more prominent manufacturers. Also, never forget (especially with baitcasters) that many reels in this price range tend to be well constructed, but have relatively poor bearings. That's an easy replacement part that can greatly aid in the performance of reels at this price point, and you can upgrade that as your budget allows. Manufacturers have more modification choices than ever before, especially for things like bearings and drags, so you're not always limited to buying the high end to get a lot of features you won't use, such as the next superlight frame material to come around. If you just want a well made reel with good components, much of the cost of a reel whose principle selling point is its weight is wasted on you.

For rods, BPS house rods are good, but I personally feel they aren't worth the retail price. However, they put most of their lines on sale several times a year, and have great closeout sales when the product lines turn over. For most applications, they can suit one well, and money can be therefore spent on more specialty applications that fall out of the relatively limited range of a house brand rod.

I feel one of the advantages we're currently enjoying in manufacturing processes is that the mid grade stuff is extremely good and has really narrowed the performance gap between itself and the far more expensive high end. For each small performance upgrade from the mid grade to high grade lines, the cost is very much disproportional to the benefit. Low grade is low grade, that that likely will never change, but we're no longer forced to the high grade lines simply to feel like we have an effective tool.

An end around to the question, but the question is a false dichotomy. You can have quality AND quantity without breaking the bank. Plus, this is fishing, and any man that says he has everything he needs is either a liar, or talking to his wife. ;D

Expensive does not aways = quality

Quality does not have to be expensive.

Bravo