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What Size Lc Sammy And Gunfish Do You Prefer?

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What sizes are your favorites and why?

Which ones walk the easiest?

I bought a few Gunfish 95's and they are a pain in the butt to walk. Especially on those super long casts where you can't see or hear it as well. After a pause the 95's are hard to get back going, they try to dive on me.

  • Super User

Bigger is a little easier to walk, but more importantly is cadence - small = fast, while big = slow. Not that you can't walk a small bait slow or a big bait fast, just that they are more suited that.

  • Author

I thought that might be the case. Bigger bait requires more energy to walk so a smaller bait would take more of a finesse approach. Maybe I need a little softer rod for the smaller ones.

  • Super User

Less than 100mm, I go with a spinning rod, an old 6' M/F Shimano. Same thing I use for poppers.

  • Author

Walking baits, spinning gear, and I are about as compatible as hot lead and water. Can't get the amount of line being retrieved perfected like I can with BC gear for some reason.

  • Super User

LOL, it is different. When I started throwing jerkbaits, all we had were Rogues and floating Rapalas, neither casted on BC gear nicely, so I got used to it.

  • Super User

I actually had problems with a small dog walker. Same thing, you stopped cadence and it was hard to get going. I took off the split ring at the line tie attachment and it was like I rediscovered my dog walking abilities.

Line is also a factor, thicker line line 15-17 lbs is ideal (for me anyway) for dog walking. 10 lbs test tends to sink too much for me and will make the bait sink like a seal.

Maybe try the above and let us know how you make out.

Hope this helps.

  • Author

John- If I tried it more than once a year with the right action rod it would probably help alot. Who knows, it may become a favorite tool. I hated Senkos two months ago until I followed the generous advice of a post RW made back in 08...now I don't go fishing without a Senko rod. I also took some advice from one of our heated arguments and have taken up drop-shotting...another must have in boat. I'm about to buy a drop-shot rod and would really like to hear your input about my choices if you don't mind.

Jigfishin10- I started to mention that after each pause and the more the line sunk it got worse. I am using small diameter 10-12# so that's probably it. Thanks

  • Super User

The lure I was having problems with was a 3" spit'n image. It's an older one when excalibur produced them back in the very early part off the 2000's. I had a lot of trouble walking that as mentioned above. I use a Medium Heavy Power - Medium Fast Action BC rod. I have 15lbs spooled up and in order to get longer casts I drop the lure about a foot or so below the rod tip. The softer tip allows the bait to whip out at the cast and provides a nice shock absorber during the strike. Because the bait is light any additional hardware on the line tie - split ring or snap - pulled the nose down just enough to make the bait harder to walk. So now I tie direct.

I wouldn't say that this bait walks a lot faster, because JF is right, smaller baits do walk faster. It does have a tighter side to side action than longer dog walkers I've used.

Good luck, I hope you find your mojo with the ones you're trying to fish with. :)

  • Author

Ight, I'll go get some 14# or 15# and remove all **** rings...I mean split rings. Thanks for the tips guys.

A whole page of posts and not the first mention of what the topic asked... :lol:

  • Super User

I really like the Sammy in 100 and 128, but prefer the Wood 100 to all. The only size I have Gunfish in are the 115, I think.

  • Author

Jig- LOL yes it did. Glad you were inspired...nothing gets my heart pounding like the old blow-up. They destroyed a char. shad Kelly J for me yesterday.

Hooligan- That's another issue I've been wondering about. Wood or plastic? LC makes really good stuff but the plastics get hook rash somethin fierce.

  • Super User

I prefer the 5"... Super Spook. :D

  • Super User

Jig- LOL yes it did. Glad you were inspired...nothing gets my heart pounding like the old blow-up. They destroyed a char. shad Kelly J for me yesterday.

Hooligan- That's another issue I've been wondering about. Wood or plastic? LC makes really good stuff but the plastics get hook rash somethin fierce.

Thanks philsoreel, 4 bass and crappie on a spook jr today. I'll take that for my first topwater outing of the season.

I'm just like you, man, I gotta retrain myself every year, I see the blow-up and my heart pounds all the time. After about 3 or 4 outings I get used to it again. :lol:

  • Super User

Wood is silent, plastic has rattles. I like the wood for calm, clear waters. My only wood Sammy is a 100 size in MS Am. Shad. That color seems to suffer the least from hook rash, though I have other baits that are almost clear that still catch well.

  • Super User

What size Lc Sammy and Gunfish Do You Prefer?

As John stated, the size of the walker should really depend on the cadence you want.

As for ease of walking, the Gunfish was designed to be more versatile than the Sammy,

so it doesn't zigzag quite as well. Frankly, I prefer the Heddon Super Spook Jr. to both the others.

Zigzag walkers are usually retrieved nonstop, but there are times when I like to pause the plug.

When the Sammy is paused, the tail-section sinks and the lure resembles a bobber,

Many anglers like this nose--up posture, but getting it "out of the hole" suppresses the initial zigzag.

On gin-clear lakes with a slick surface my favorite is still the Rapala 4¼" Original Floater ("twitch & pause").

For short-stroke walking though, I'm an age-old addict of the Heddon 3.5" x 1/2oz Super Spook Jr.

.

RoLo

  • Author

As John stated, the size of the walker should really depend on the cadence you want.

As for ease of walking, the Gunfish was designed to be more versatile than the Sammy,

so it doesn't zigzag quite as well. Frankly, I prefer the Heddon Super Spook Jr. to both the others.

Zigzag walkers are usually retrieved nonstop, but there are times when I like to pause the plug.

When the Sammy is paused, the tail-section sinks and the lure resembles a bobber,

Many anglers like this nose--up posture, but getting it "out of the hole" suppresses the initial zigzag.

On gin-clear lakes with a slick surface my favorite is still the Rapala 4¼" Original Floater ("twitch & pause").

For short-stroke walking though, I'm an age-old addict of the Heddon 3.5" x 1/2oz Super Spook Jr.

.

RoLo

Made a line diameter change and canned the split-ring on my Gunfish...it helped tremendously.

I started a thread last summer asking what kind of cadence people where using with walkers. To pause or not to pause , if you will. About 80-85% said they use a stop and go. I remember one saying (may have been you JF) that they would use a non-stop retrieve when the bite was slow to provoke a strike just by annoying them.

Not saying one is right or wrong. I try to keep it as erratic as possible.

  • Author

Oh yeah, the Spook is one of my favs as well. Does anyone know if they still make the Original Heddon Zara Spook with no rattles. I can find them but they all have rattles now. My supply of old ones without rattles is dwindling fast. Lost my next to last one yesterday.

  • Super User

Lurenet.com is distributing the Zara Spooks for Heddon.

I use a constant retrieve.

If you want to make the lure veer off to one side, try a half step instead of bending the line tie and fatiguing the metal. 1 full pull followed by a half pull. Basically, the full pull will bring the bait to one side and the half starightens it out, next full pull brings the bait to the side more causing the lure veer to one side.

I know you didn't ask that question so this one's on me...LOL

EDIT: After fighting a fish, check your line tie. Sometimes it slides up towards the top making it harder to walk again. Reposition and your good to go.

  • Author

Lurenet.com is distributing the Zara Spooks for Heddon.

I use a constant retrieve.

If you want to make the lure veer off to one side, try a half step instead of bending the line tie and fatiguing the metal. 1 full pull followed by a half pull. Basically, the full pull will bring the bait to one side and the half starightens it out, next full pull brings the bait to the side more causing the lure veer to one side.

I know you didn't ask that question so this one's on me...LOL

EDIT: After fighting a fish, check your line tie. Sometimes it slides up towards the top making it harder to walk again. Reposition and your good to go.

Yeah sir, you can also walk that baby down a lay down hugging the trunk tight...deadly...we should hush now

  • Super User

Yeah sir, you can also walk that baby down a lay down hugging the trunk tight...deadly...we should hush now

Gotcha...:)

Good luck topwater fishing this year! ;)

  • Super User

When you buy a Lucky Craft bait you're paying a premium price for a very finely detailed finish. They do make beautiful looking hard baits.

I do not believe this is at all important for a topwater bait. I have several Sammys and a couple of gunfish, and I regret spending that much for topwater baits. Spooks and jr spooks put more fish in the boat than the LC baits, are easier on the bank account, and are easier to walk.

Save your money for where it matters more. Like jerkbaits. That excellent finish and balance are just what the doctor ordered when fishing clear cool water, where the fish have time to get a good look at the bait.

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