Micro

I can't imagine there is a problem with Pfluegers. When it comes down to it, they're built pretty much the same as every other reel.

I can't speak to the Energy, but I have a JM Elite reel and I love it. First of all, it's extremely attractive. It's finished very nicely - inside and out. Second, it has a very effective centrifugal and magnetic brake. Third, it will cast very light baits very effectively. Last, it has a good drag rated for a max of 14 pounds - more than you will need for bass fishing. I am thoroughly impressed with this reel.

Just to be clear, Boett, the problem you described ISN'T the problem others were having and the one Reelmech is describing. The problems other were having was that they were clicking the brake OFF (all the way down), but the brake was popping back ON during the cast. What you described is that you click the brake ON and it slides up and down the shaft. That's not a problem - that's the way it's supposed to be. The brake on the Revo S is either OFF (locked down), or ON (slides up and down the shaft). The brake is a CENTRIFUGAL. The brake weights will slide to the ends of the shafts when the spool is spinning. Othewise, they are loose on the their shafts. The reason they don't lock in the ON position is because they ride up the shaft due to centrifical force and rub against the drum which they ride inside of (that brass ring on the inside of the sideplate). That friction is what gives the braking action. If they locked, they either wouldn't contact the drum (thus no braking action), or you wouldn't be able to get the sideplate back on with any of the brakes in the ON position. From what you describe, you don't have a problem. Your Revo is working as it should.

The only differences between the C3, C4, C5 are bearing counts (colors and other "bling" notwithstanding). C3 as three bearings - two in spool, and an anti-reverse. C4 has four bearings - same as C3 + one in level wind. C5 has five bearings - same as C3 + two in level wind So the wiffle spool from the 5600 WS (which is a C4 reel) should fit the C3 or C5 5600 reels. The Record has the same bearings as C5 + bearings in each sideplate that support the shaft ends. But Records use a different numbers scheme to differentiate size, and the parts numbers for the shafts are different than for the other C models. I'm not sure that a spool assembly out of a record would fit a C3/4/5. The best thing to do is call Abu's service department. They are very accessible and can answer your questions.

I have 8 Revos right now. I've noticed there are some differences in design and finishes depending on the lot numbers (or whatever that number is on the foot of the reel). If you've noticed, the first Revos had solid reel foots, while later reels has reel foots that has been recessed in areas underneath - presumably to save weight (?). The earliest reels with the solid reel foots do not seem to me to be finished as well as the later reels with the recessed reel foots. I've noticed that the round part of the frame that houses the main gear aren't machined as nicely as later reels. They aren't bad, they just aren't as good. When I shop for a Revo, I always take it out of the box and look att he reel foot to make sure its one of the reels with recessed foot and not one of the older Revos with the solid foot. I'm going to try and take some pictures because I don't know if anything I just wrote makes sense.

If the bearing pack is stainless steel, and the side plate is aluminum, that describes 99.9% of all LP reels out there. Seems to me they live happily together in almost all reels. Galvanic corrosion shouldn't occur unless there was an electrolyte introduced, such as saltwater. So it's unlikley corrosion exists simply becasue of the use of dissimilar metals, and more likely because of lack of proper care?

A couple of people have made that complaint on this board that the weight was sliding up during a cast after having been pushed down and "locked" into place - the little tab had worn off. I've seen it on another forum, too, and AFAIK Abu has been advised of that problem. On my Revo Ss, I have 2 brakes on and 4 off. They came with 3 on and 3 off. I was surprised as just how much force was required to snap the brakes on and off.

I read "somewhere" that Pflueger reels (namely the President) have internal corrosion problems (probably ) due to the dissimilar metals in and around the bearings. I've never heard of this. Don't all reels use dissimilar metals in and around bearings? Has anyone (Reelmech?) ever heard of this phenomenon with Pflueger reels?

I used Abu round reels for years. Then I bought my first low profile - a Shimano Curado B. Loved the size. Got more low profiles when the Revos came out. Generally, they outperformed by Abu round reels. Thought I'd never go back. Then I bought an Abu 5600 EXT Pro round reel. It outperforms my Revos with respect to casting light baits. There are junk reels in both catergories, and stellar reels in both categories. Just comes down to what you want and how much you are willing to pay.

I voted Revo, but also own Johnny Morris in the same price range.

I think lizards are supposed to superficially resemble salamanders/mud puppies which are found in just about any lake with bass. They just call them lizards out of convenience - since it's a well established term. Even if you didn't have these critters in your lake, IMO all the lizard does is elicit a strike against a nest raider or an irritant.

I use Stren Original and Trilene XL in fluorescent blue. As far as I can tell, it's no more visible underwater than clear line.

The top-end BPS baitcaster I have seen are marked made in Korea. My JM Elite is made in Korea. JT, where is your newest Patriarch made?

If you see one that is yawning at you, don't kiss him goodnight.

Sweet looking reel. I really like that titanium finish. If it's as good as my JM Elite, it's an awesome reel.

Looks like Jarden has consolidated Shakespeare and Pure Fishing. All fishing related stuff now comes under Pure Fishing.

Just got back from Green Top Sporting Goods. They exchanged it - no questions asked. I went with a 6'6" this time. The tip is a little stiffer than the 7' and I think it will work with plastics a bit better.

How are you supposed to set the hook with these? Do you let the fish do it like ow with octopus hooks, or actually set them yourself?

There will be no wake, and no viewing. I expect it to arise from the dead tomorrow morning in Richmond, Virginia when I do the "Wah, I broke my rod" incantation at the fishing counter at Green Top Sporting Goods. Luckily, that store has great customer service. I hope that trend continues. I don't know why it broke. I'm surprised it didn't break while I was using it. I didn't catch any fish on it, and it has suffered no trauma. All I can characterize it as is a crack in the graphite under the lacquer. The lacquer that was over the mark was perfectly smooth, but when I flexed it a little, it just folded. It broke very cleanly.

Yeah, it's not so bad compared to your accident.

I fished my 7' MH baitcaster today. Tonight when I was putting stuff away I noticed a black ring around the blank about 1/3 of the way from the tip. Looked sort of like a crack under the laquer. I flexed it a little with my hand to see if it was anything to worry about the the rod folded. (I figured if it's gonna break, do it now and not while fishing.) The rod has a lifetime warrenty, but the store I bought it from warrants it for 6 months. I bought it on 10/13/07. Tomorrow is 1 day shy of 6 months. So tomorrow I'm taking it back to the store and seeing if they will honor their warranty. d**n shame, I really liked that rod.

Sort of like circle hooks...

I've heard that, too. But no one can verify it, because their land is off-limits to outsiders.

Detecting the hit isn't really the problem, it's that I'm yanking the bait out of the fishes mouth that stumps me. I'm going to give wacky rigging another go in a few days.

I've tried them before, wacky rigged on a Gammy finesse hook, but I have trouble setting the hook. I haven't a clue what I'm doing wrong.