Micro

Eagles - Hell Freezes Over

He wouldn't get it. We have lots of big deer.

Take it out. It's not going to hurt it. Take the little black serated thing off that the copper clicker rubs on, too. The spool tension knob on the Revo S doesn't back off without the clicker. The Revo S sideplate is exactly the same as the sideplate on the Revo SX - even to the point of having the holes needed to afix the black serated piece properly.

Deps makes the Basirisky hollow body frog. IMO, its the best hollowbody out there. It's incredibly easy to use and incredibly effective. It floats at a 45 degree angle with just the head sticking out of the water. On a slow retrieve, it waddles across the water leaving a tight trail of bubbles behind it. It doesn't loose much action even when being pulled across heavy matted grass. It makes a very audible and satisfying plop-plop-plop noise as it waddles. The single hook is excellent and hook-ups are as good as with any other hollow body frog. Maybe a bit better. At nearly $20 they aren't cheap. But they do work. http://www.***.com/Deps_Basirisky_Hard_Belly_Frog/descpage-BHBF.html

Right now where I fish the topwater bite is on. I'm catching fish on just about anything I'm throwing. Popping frogs are a great choice. I've been having quite a bit of luck on the Reins Semi-Daddy Frog. It looks like a cicaida, but it's nothing more than a hollow-body popping frog. I throw it out, let it land, and twitch the hell out of it, nonstop. Blowups have been fierce. http://www.tackleexperts.com/reins-semidaddy-frog-p-120482.html?osCsid=5c509da8813f43fc90479e73b30e36e5

Seriously, though, is RW still around? I don't see his name listed one the main forums page.

The bass in my previous avatar was caught on a senko rigged on a weighted Owner spiral lock wide gap hook. Sam can tell you, he took the picture.

I agree with Oneup. Flipping and pitching aren't the same. While you can get away with the same rod for both, pitching and flipping rods have slightly different attributes. Flipping rods are generally long and stiff to the tip. Pitching rods don't need to be as long, in fact shorter is sometimes perferable. Pitching rods usually have softer tips so they load up a bit on the pitch. I have an Allstar American Classic flipping rod and an Allstar American Classic pitching rod. The flipping rod is 7'6" and the pitching rod is 7'. Both are heavy/xtra fast and are rated for the same lure weights. But the pitching rod is shorter and has a softer tip and I can get much better accuracy when pitching. If you want one rod to do both, I'd go with a pitching rod over a flipping rod. IMO, it's easier to flip with a pitching rod than pitch with a flipping rod. As for a flipping or pitching reel, I'd recommend a Shimano reel with the flipping thumb bar, such as the Core 100MgFV or Castaic. The Castaic is a bit dated but it performs exceptionally well and is built like a tank. Or I'd recommend a Diawa baitcaster since most, if not all, of their reels can be reengaged simply by pushing up on the thumb bar after it has been depressed. This is a very handy feature.

Just got my October issue and saw the article on Briery Creek. Wayne is mentioned throughout. Very nice article. And a good picture and description of his special bait.

I've never seen a duck or goose on that lake. However, if you can speak beaver you might be of some use.

http://www.dgif.virginia.gov/fishing/regulations/general.asp

Special Mate Tackle Boxes. You can get them in many sizes to accomodate everything from crank baits to huge saltwater plugs. http://www.lakemichiganangler.com/store/Special_Mate_Tackle_Box.htm

If you are experiencing lots of backlashes and don't know why it helps to perform a lot of casts out in your yard and watch your reel, not your lure, to see when your backlash is developing. Watching your reel while you practice is interesting because you can see the dynamics of the backlash as it develops. A backlash can start developing at the beginning of a cast, or in the middle/end of a cast. At any rate, it happens because the spool is spinning and line isn't coming off fast enough. A backlash that starts at the beginning, right after your thumb comes off the spool, happens because your spool accelerated faster your lure. If you are casting a reel with centrifugal brakes, which work well at keeping acceleration under control, you can try applying more brakes. Or adjusting your spool tension. I have found that a reel with magnetic brakes, that don't apply much force at the beginning of the cast, require more spool tension than more brake. Sometimes these types of backlashes will work themselves out if you watch your reel. You can see the line immediately puff up but settles down because the lure has more momentum than the spool and slows down slower than the spool. So you want to take the steps necessary to control the acceleration of your spool. A backlash that develops in the middle/end of your cast is caused because your lure is decelerating faster than your spool, so line isn't coming out fast enough throughout the flight of your lure. Like when you cast a spinnerbait into the wind, or if your lure hits the dock when you intended to cast past it (not much you can do about the latter). If you watch the spool when this happens the line will begin to puff up around the spool as it spins well after the lure as left the rod tip. Reels with magnetic brakes are good at controlling this since they seem to have the most effect after the spool as already achieved its maximum speed. More brake will probably help. On reel with centrifugal brakes more brake may help, but that can affect the front end of your cast. More spool tension can help. My advice is to practice casting and try to determine when you backlash is developing. The differences are subtle but the steps at correcting them are different enough that I think knowing this makes sense. On most of my reels I've gotten to the point where I have them tuned that I can cast my most basic cast without using my thumb at all after the initial release while still achieving good control and distance. Any variations just require a little thumb input. As previously stated - practice.

I've never seen a dead one. But I've seen several live ones. I saw one 60 miles out of Oregon Inlet, NC. Saw one while fishing a weed line 1 or 2 miles outside Oregon Inlet. I couldn't identify what kind of sea turtles, but definately sea turtles. The only one I ever saw that I would absolutely identify was a giant leatherback I saw swimming out of Oregon Inlet while cobia fishing. In fact I heard it before I saw it. I heard a "foosh" and looked out and saw a huge black head stiking out of the water. I think it was blowing water out of it's nose. It swam under out boat. It was friggin huge, estimating 4-5 feet in length (just the shell).

I went through 4 years of ROTC in college ('84-'88). The vast majority of cadets did not have a scholarship. However, every cadet (3rd and 4th year only) received a monthly stipend of $100 to help defray the costs of uniforms and such. Not much help. And not sure how much it is these days. Back then, I had to go to advanced camp the summer between my 3rd and 4th year at Ft. Bragg for 6 weeks. During your 4th year you will likely serve in some cadet cadre position running the program. If you are in Army ROTC, you will get branched during your 4th year (ie. infantry, armor, aviation, etc). Upon graduation, you will go to Officer Basic Course for whatever you branched for however many weeks you that particular OBC course is. Then you will report to your unit to start your career as an officer. Things may be a bit different now. But ROTC was a college course. Unless you had a scholarship, it didn't help with costs except to the extent of the monthly stipend. You took it if your wanted a commission as an officer after graduation.

Stick with Shimano. It's where you'll end up after you try everything else. I have the Stradic and Symetre. There is very little, if any, discernible difference in smoothness, performance or line management between the Stradic and the Symetre. For the money, the Symetre is about as good as you can get.

in James City County, VA and sees a turtle with a frog-colored Ima Roumba in his mouth, it's mine. Capture it and return my Roumba and you will receive high praise. >

Don't spool your reel with concertina wire. Problem solved.

Fenwick HMG 6'6" MH/MF (GT66MH-MF). HMG blank, Alconite guide, TAC grips. It's a perfect spinnerbait rod. As sensitive as any equivalent St. Croix Avid. $109.95.

I have a Spirex 2500FG on an Allstar American Classic 6'6" M/MF spooled with 8# Trilene XL. I bought as sort of a beater reel I could keep in my truck or take to work or whatever. It was relatively inexpensive - amout $55. It's become one of my favorite reels. It is excellent line management. It lays line evenly and line twist is minimal - less than with Cardinals I've owned. It's smooth. The double crank makes it feel really good for moving baits. The good part about a reel without instant anti-reverse, or some back play, is that it allows you to become more attched to your set up. It gives you extra feel through your reel. As much as people lament the back play in some Shimano baitcasters, that was always an advantage to me. I can feel my bait better on through Curado better than I can through a Zillion, all else being the same. The Spirex is no exception. The self-centering aspect is no disadvatage. It's just different. I rarely use the trigger, but rather hand-open and close the bail. It's a great reel. Give it a whirl.

I saw this photo and caption on CNN. Japanese police have a playboy bunny on their jackets? Stylish!

I had one of the blue JM Elites. It was a big, heavy reel. It cast nicely but after a few months the bearings started to screech badly. Cleaning and lubing wouldn't help. I returned it to the store.

I have two kids, a 12 year old and a 15 year old. My 12 year old is well mannered, well behaved, and has produced a bumper-full of honor-roll stickers. He's in advanced classes, has a working command of spanish, and started teaching himself german over the summer, and now can speak in most basic terms in german. He aspires to be a Navy Seal. My 15 year old is exactly the opposite. He doesn't like school and never has. He's a chronic skipper. He's in 9th grade for the second year. He's currently suspended for cussing his teacher. He's gotten in trouble for stealing a bike and throwing a home for-sale sign in a creek. He's gone into rages and smashed things in our home. He's now 6'2' and nearly 200 lbs. He's gotten a lifetime of *** whippings, had most of his personal property taken away by me, including his bedroom door. He's been in therapy and medicated. Still, he shows no respect for his parents or adults. I've even had police officers tell me that if I beat him to withn an inch of his life they wouldn't do anything to me about it. That's how rotten he can be. These boys grew up in the same house, with the same parents, rules and discipline. One responded, one didn't. One day I'll be attending one of my son's graduations from a military academy, I'll be visiting the other in prison. Sometimes a kid's brain is wired differntly. All the *** whoopins in the world, all the demand for respect, all the parenting just doesn't work. Ultimately they are their own animal. One day they will pay their own price for their selfishness and the parent will wash their hands of them.

For lots of Bowfin, and big Bowfin, I recommned yoiu drive a few hours south to Chickahominy Lake. Rent a boat with a 6hp motor at Ed Allens, go a few hundred yards down the lake and park it at the dam. Drop shot live minnows near the ends of the dam. You will catch bowfin after bowfin after bowfin. They are absolutely destructive. They will test your bass gear and give you a great workout. Chickahominy Lake is the single best lake in Virginia for Bowfin.

Go on YouTube and search for Rabies or Hydrophobia. See videos of some people with advanced Rabies. Absolutely pitiful and all now dead.