Paul Roberts

Wishing that the fish will come to you, meet you most of the way, is a false hope most of the time. Or at least no way to beat the random odds with any consistency. The flip-side is going TO the fish -meeting THEM most of the way. The latter takes an education, which takes time reading, observing, fishing, experimenting. Can't think of a better way to spend a life.

That's a myth, and a fishing habit, you can properly dispose of, for many reasons.

There's more to these breakages than the line. The lines you mention are all OK. But you have to know them and work within their limitations. Same is true with any line. FC in general does not handle as well as copoly's. Expect it to be more wiry. But it does not weaken in the sun like Copoly's do, so it can potentially last longer. Probably the least costly way to go, if you can't stomach the FC's or Copoly's is to go to braid, and then afix a leader to it of Copoly or FC.

Glad there are at least a few of us left. Rich Zaleski is a back-reeler too. Yes, the line twist thing is very true. Since I've always back-reeled I guess I don't know how much of an issue that could be in bass fishing. But with chinook salmon, it can be a real headache. After having your reel nearly spooled several times during a single fight, all those rpm's leave you with line that acts like a loaded spring.

I kinda like a heavy bass at the other end. That balances things out perfectly.

Why do you think they are "sinker bites". I can't see bluegills carrying off a 3/4oz weight. They are probably pecking the bait.

I've... never had, or seen, such a problem. I can't really imagine how it could happen, to the point of a "mess". Maybe it's this –controlling the rotor. That’s what the handle does, but it’s not the only way to do that, and instantly. In back-reeling the rod hand is also used to control the rotor. This is no great adjustment since we already use the rod hand to pick up the line to cast, and to assist in proper line tension at the beginning of the retrieve. (Originally spinning reels didn't even have a bail, the line brought into the line pickup with the rod hand finger.) One's rod hand is always an easy touch away from the line and rotor. It could stop a "runaway" rotor in a heartbeat. Also, the cranking hand can catch the rotor instantly, if need be. The only adjustment I could see one needing would be in educating the rod hand to control the rotor. But if anyone spent even an hour back-reeling they'd be using the rod hand to control the rotor anyway, since the anti-reverse is clicked off when fishing. I use the last three fingers (middle to pinky) to control the rotor. The index finger picks up the line to cast. Grab a spinning rig and try it -drop your last three fingers onto the rotor. Problem solved.

Ditto. But I'll assume you know you've got fish in front of you... Trying to get a single bait to work is fun, trying to figure out how to get them to bite. Often there is a particular way they want it, and you just have to ferret that out. Taking a bunch of new baits along, sounds like plumming for some magic lure -hoping the fish will come to you, do most of the work. You'll most likely be disappointed if that's what's in the back of your mind. Much of the time the onus is on you, you have to go to the fish, and make it happen. So choosing a single or just a few lures, or better, lure types, I think makes a lot more sense.

In my mind, the focus is what the fish are doing and the conditions the environment is dishing out at the time, not lures all by themselves. Sure there are lots of "fish-catchers" in your boxes, but which one's are applicable in the moment? And which one's do you know how to apply with confidence? And which one's might you want to add by experimentation to your GoTo list in those conditions?

FC is generally courser and more wiry than Copoly's. Diameter is the important thing. FCs over 10# need a wide spool and even then it can "jump", and develop loops. I am careful to maintain proper tension on initial wind-up and am always checking for loops. This is even more important than with FC compared to Copoly's. BPS tends to handle reasonably well for me. But again, diameter is the important factor. I have used FC up to 12lb on my spinning rigs. I did try 14lb FC on a BG15 (~3000 size) reel and it worked but was very course and even noisy going out the guides. If you are having trouble, BPS in 6 or 8lb would probably work fine; You did say light spinning anyway. Vanish appears "softer' but doesn't seem to handle all that much diff for me. Berkley 100% has a higher diameter per rated break so if you go that route and want "8lb" you'll need to buy it in "6lb". In fact, bc of "the rating game" I purchase lines for various applications by diameter not rated break strength. Hope this helps some.

Very nice. Beautiful chunk smallies. Looked like a really great time for those guys.

Here's my take -and it is merely an educated guess: Its a Texas/Gulf Coast thing, originally, stemming from the Red Swamp Crayfish Procambarus clarkii a very prolific breeder and aggressive crayfish that tends to dominate other species. Pretty much a dead ringer: But there is more... It appears that the two "red" species are on the move -apparently in bait buckets. I found this: "P. clarkii is ... listed as an invasive species in California, Maryland, Nevada, New York, North Carolina, Ohio, Pennsylvania and Virginia." As to red lures in spring: Crayfish "migrate" to deeper water for winter. In some reservoirs ice anglers have video'd basin bottoms "carpeted" with wintering crays. They then come shallower in spring to occupy summer habitat -crevices, vegetation, and esp with this species, shallow burrows. Crayfish also migrate in trout streams, from riffles to deepest pools and eddies and I've made good use of this in very early spring with crayfish patterns. March/April browns can be packed with crayfish then. More by far than any other time of year. But P. clarkii is "red" pretty much year round. My take is that crays are esp available/vulnerable in spring (and presumably fall?) and much less so when they find summer hides. As to Oneida specifically, clarkii is not (yet) known to be there. But C. rusticus is, a (somewhat red species, esp in clear water), and is a recent invasive being officially recorded in Oneida in 2005, but assumed to have been there for some unknown period prior. C. rusticus is also an aggressive domineering crayfish.

Bass seasons are maintained in the north bc there is evidence that fishing to bedded fish can affect nest success due to harsher weather, intense egg predation, and most recently "parental investment" research. This is less an issue in the south apparently. There is also a vulnerability factor in the north with temperature differentials consolidating fish, making larger segments of a given population vulnerable. With widespread C&R now, vulnerability to harvest period is less an issue now. I remember a guy catching bass early on a lake I lived on in NY when I was young and our local CO watching the guy with binocs waiting for him to come in. He then found a cooler in the guy's boathouse full of bass, and busted him. I now live in Colorado and we don't have a closed season. And fishing being what it is, you can always add "challenge" if you wish. Your older buddy, about my age, probably is sensitive to these issues.

Good point. I should re-word that... If you ever expect a fish to take you down to your backing, the backing should be up to the challenge.

Well at least you know your suit will hold water in!

It helps to have the appropriate tackle. It will save you heartache. A suggestion, if you happen to hook a big one near brush on light tackle: As Sam advised, walking is very good thing to know about. It exerts very even pressure and often the fish will tow along nicely, and for quite a distance. First, before you get to casting, look around and identify the trouble spots. If you hook a good one, immediately walk (or move the boat), tow that fish away from the snag to more open water. Pumping the rod won't work, as the fish will feel it and react. Paniced bass are notorious for purposely diving into cover. I even had one bolt into a muskrat hole at pond-side! Look for trouble before you start casting. And...one more plug for back-reeling. It's easy. Once you get used to it, you'll never go back. Complete control is what it gives you.

The backing is there just to take up space as most reels hold more (expensive) braid than you'll actually fish with. A 150yrd spool of braid will fill two bass reels, with backing. I use kite string. It's cheap and fills the space quickly. I then roll a spool-width piece of electricians tape over it. Then...on goes the braid. Caveats: -If you do any saltwater fishing don't use kite string as it'll soak up saltwater and can't be washed out easily. Then use any cheap mono backing. -If you have big stripers in your bass lake and you might hook one, might be best to use mono backing in case a big one decides to run.

I've had no trouble with the Uni's, but may have to check out some others. I've used the Albright for fly-fishing, and don't think of it as a small knot. But I suppose with braid it could be. Will try it. I like the looks of the Stren Knot too. Thanks, guys.

Good answers above. I guess I find the FCs I've used to have a frosted look, and is more wiry and has more memory so it looks kinked and curled. Mono tends to be shinier and its memory shows up as wider coils. If mono's not shiny, if it's "frosted", it's gone bad. I always thought I'd remember which line was on what spool. Not so anymore. I now make sure to use those little stickers that come with line spools. With spinning reels I stick them on the inside of the reel spools.

If you are bass fishing you don't need to fill the spool with braid. Just put it over some mono, or kite string covered with elec tape. 75 to 100 yards will do you. Wind it on firmly, or, just not loosely. Don't over-fill. For leaders the connecting knot I use is back-to-back Uni-Knots -a Uni in both the braid and leader. Braid is slick and will slip through most other knots. I use 3 to 4 ft of mono or FC, but the nice thing is you can add more if you want to fish straight mono or FC for some applications. Leader size depends on what you are doing with it. It should at least stay within the range designated on your rod. As you fish, watch for loops forming as tangles with braid can be difficult to impossible to pick out, resulting in knotted loops. I love braid on spinning tackle. But it does take a little getting used to.

Ah! Silly me.

Awesome! Love the play by play. Now that's a fishing report.

Beautiful fish!

So... what adjustments did you make?

Awesome fish. Congrats to your wife. Those are healthy fish there. Fun to see.