J Francho

Chatter <> deep water fishing, but that's just me. I use them as a change up to a spinnerbait for shallow prespawn, and late fall fishing.

A drop shot is terminal rigging, a Senko is a plastic bait that can be rigged any number of ways, including drop shot. Which would I use? Depends on how deep, the cover, weather, and the activity level of the fish. Might be neither, or might be both.

Here's your best bet: http://www.chatillon.com/Our%20Products/Chatillon%20Weighing%20Scales/fish%26game_product/IN_fishscale.html

Gotcha, see the resolutions posted above....since this is BassResource, I think it's safe to assume that unless otherwise stated, we're talking about bass fishing.

It gets tough sometimes when they aren't locked on, but starting to nest. I remember a biologist saying that 60-75% of the bass do not spawn.....that means somewhere there are feeding fish.

Ouch?

"Smoke" is a good color to intentionally bleed with other baits. You can make some really subtle browns and greens with it.

Lighter is always better than too tight. You can always add by feathering or thumbing the spool, but you can't go back once the line broke.

Step on their heads, LOL. (just kidding)

I use a scale, especially when using lighter lines, like 6# fluorocarbon, that actually breaks at 6#. After a few times measuring this way, you can often go by feel, but it helps to check once in a while. For anyone looking to set a line class record, the devil can be in the details.... In more than 30 years of bass fishing, I never met anyone that bass fishes like that.

No sweat, thought it might grab a few more views here.

What would make you think a square bill crank was a largemouth only lure? I mean, LMB vs. SMB is usually about location, not lures. If they're shallow, a shallow crank will work.

Fishing a Carolina Rig. Never catch using it. Why? Because I'd rather watch paint dry than fish it, LOL. That's not entirely true, I'll use it when I have to.

There is no hard fast rule for how fast bass grow. It depends on too many variables to predict.

Rods will usually throw baits in the top end of their stated range better than the bottom.

They still do, some worse than others.

It isn't a virus, just a link to http://www.jjsmagic.com/. There's probably some minor scripting to track the number of click throughs, but nothing malicious at all. Not sure what's going on with the Cabela's and BassPro. I'll have Glenn take a look.

Keep your tip up, and keep reeling, even if it jumps. You want to get that fish up and over the weed line ASAP. Once it's on a shorter leash, you can let it dig in a bit.

If you are actually targeting them, then get some titanium leaders. They outlast everything, and well worth the money.

Pushing brakes in would mean they are all off. Start with four "out" or on, in an "X" pattern, and see how that works.

http://fish.shimano.com/publish/content/global_fish/en/us/index/customer_service0/reel_maintenance_instructions.download.-mainParsys-0001-downloadFile.html/Maintenance%20Tips-%20Baitcasting%20Reels%20(2%20pages).pdf http://fish.shimano.com/publish/content/global_fish/en/us/index/customer_service0/reel_maintenance_instructions.download.-mainParsys-000100-downloadFile.html/Maintenance%20Tips-%20Spinning%20Reels%20(1%20page).pdf http://fish.shimano.com/publish/content/global_fish/en/us/index/customer_service0/reel_maintenance_instructions.download.-mainParsys-000110-downloadFile.html/Maintenance%20Tips-%20Round%20Baitcasting%20Reels%20(2%20pages).pdf

A-Jay, get some Cortland Toothy Critter in 10# size. Tie your jigs and even your t-rigs up with it. Bass don't care about, and still bite. Use a Uni to Uni if using mono, or a Alberto for braid. Its 100% perfect, but you at least give yourself a fishing chance.

This happens while bass fishing? Not sure I even understand the "levelwind 180° off to the line" issue. As stated previously, some reels it is as simple as loosening the drag, holding the spool with your thumb, and turning the handle until they are in alignment. On others, either pay out a cast's worth of line and reel it in, or clip the line and turn the spool until its aligned and feed the line back through the line guide. It'll then be in alignment. I can't see the point in removing a level wind in any reel meant for bass fishing.

I use non disengaging levelwind reels for large swimbaits, pike, and musky lures with no issues. After all the ABU's I've serviced, I'd think that the plastic idler gear issue would show up, but never has. Pawls and worm gears, yes, but never an idler.

There's no other way, that I know of. Additionally, the lakes bottom changes as time wears on, so older maps may not be as reliable.