J Francho

Do not do this. A tiny bit of oil, to protect the rollers is all that is necessary. Grease will eventually deteriorate, and gum up, causing the AR to slip.

Use a narrow angle beam, like 200mHz. I think its like a 10* beam, or something close.

The variable is you. Take it apart, and see what you did wrong. It really is going to be that simple. Whether its lube, or assembly, or what ever, you've got to figure that out yourself. Or send it to a pro.

So, the reels are doing something new? I mean they didn't feel like this before you took them apart?

I fish directly under my boat all the time. So do many, many others. I watched the fish in my avatar come up to my bait, and take it, all on the graph. Its called "fishing in the cone." Other times, you move in a search grid pattern to define a section of the bottom, and possibly locate fish. Here's a shot of my graph as I checkout a deep basin area:

Here's how DVT showed me: You need: Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler in Golden Oak Magic Eraser U-40 Cork Sealer Clean the cork with the Magic Eraser. Remove any loose cork or old filler with a pick. Apply the wood filler to any holes or imperfections in the cork. It usually takes two coats of filler, more for deep holes. Sand lightly, 1st with 120 grit, then 220 grit. Mask off the blank and reel seat. Apply U-40 cork sealer with a small art brush. One coat will do. Figure an hour for each rod, including dry time. They come out better than new.

Uh oh....that opens up the spawn on the Great Lakes..... 8-)

That conversation was a train wreck.

Some of those are actually funny! ;D

I'll wait for the jerk bait line.

It depends on what I'm throwing, what I'm doing, and/or what the fish are doing. If I'm throwing a jig to an important, prominent cover item, I'll throw a dozen or more times. If I'm in search mode, learning a new lake, I'll make a couple and keep moving. Especially true immediate post spawn. If the bite is on, and its a good spot, that I think holds more than one fish, then I'll keep hitting, changing angle a bit each time. And sight fishing....if its a monster, and its locked on, I might be there for days, LOL.

In a sense that's true. But if the reels are valuable at all, its worth sending them to a pro.

Alberto: http://www.stripersonline.com/Pages/Articles/article_arby_albertos_knot.shtml

I was there Sat. and Sunday, LOL. $392 and $147, respectively.

Abrasion Visibility Shock resistance Easier to break off Toothy fish Sink/Floating bait Lure action

This is how it goes down. The professor will come to a public hearing, and present a lop sided dataset, and show a bunch of dead loons. He'll be backed by the Audubon Society, and possibly other "environmental" groups. Everyone is so sad for the loons, common sense takes a long nap. Laws are passed. http://www.tufts.edu/vet/loons/index.html The question to ask is, "How many loons die per year in places where you've been able to ban lead?" Not, "How many loons died from lead poisoning?" The answer will be, the same as before the ban.

Yep, I've cracked reel seats and even had a reel go flying. The leader knot was another story, probably so pressed for time, had more faith in the durability in the knot than he should have. That fish was an INCREDIBLE save, though.

Palomar, Uni, and snell work well with fluoro.

The upgrades are around another $100 or so.

Probably eBay. They go for around $80. I don't know anything about a Jerry Foran, never heard of him.

I reel those things in so fast, I'm not even sure the fish sees anything but a streak through the water, LOL.

Not unless they're deeply discounted.

And BBC, my baits are like that from fishing it in rip rap and rock piles.

I have three of the same bait, same color, and three more in blue/silver. They all look like yours, but it took a couple weeks to get there. They are pretty much clear. The Baby bass was less durable of the two colors.

A couple of days of fishing rip rap, and over 100 bass.