J Francho

Explain how a split ring is more sensitive than a snap? Or are you removing the split ring and tying to loop? That would kill the action, depending on bait, line size and type, among other things. I'm just getting the sensitivity deal there. Oh, for the OP, don't use a snap if its a jig, spinnerbait, or a hook. We're talking about baits with split rings that you tie to.

Not if you use the right size, and remove the split rings. #2 Duo Locks work well with most jerkbaits in the 85-120 size. I've gone up to #3 for a Sammy 100 with no issues, though a #2 is preferable.

About as close as I see to anything, beyond those crazy deep water hatchetfish, that has a round caudal fin like that is the "Midshiopman" from the genus Porichthys. But color is way off, though fish can be like chameleons.

I agree, either a juvenile/quiescent color, or maybe even spawning colors. Looks like some kind of goby/blennie/sculpin/bottom hopper. I'm digging around here hoping to get lucky on it: http://www.dfg.ca.gov/marine/fishid.asp

I am right handed, but my left arm is stronger than my right. 20 years of playing drums... Anyway, I use both. Mostly LH for jigs and weighted plastics, and RH for moving baits. I can change up for either, but that is my preference. I don't see why it matters, and anyone that says the switching hands is wasting time hasn't seen me cast. There's no switching.

You should be able to follow that without buoys. Plus, if you're on fish, its just advertisement.

You might be missing out on the fast action, but I doubt you're missing too many bigger fish. I do quite a bit of point fishing during prespawn, and I'll beat up a point with a lipless, sometimes catching fish cast after cast. When that bite slows down to next to nothing, then I'll pick it apart with plastic or a jig. This is where I usually catch my biggest fish. Now, would you be missing something? Hard to tell. But catching those moderate fish cast after cast sure is fun. Just don't abandon what you already know works either.

Yeah.....right. LMAO.

Kind of saw that coming. Its now the way it should have been, before they even hired Wade.

Very nice set. Post 1, #3 and post 2, #2 really grab my attention.

I use all three.

Not really. I fish real lakes. ;D

Depends on which bait you're referring to. The Shad is a TOTAL CLUNKER, and I'm not the only one. The 6" Jr. trout is a winner in both fast and slow sink. What do you mean by clunker? Mine has performed perfectly. Many, many hours spent underwater, not a single fish caught. Its almost uncanny. Many other baits have caught, that one is a dud. I gave my four away.

I watched a man made lake being dug. They would carve out channels, then knock down the walls, leaving "ruts" like Catt describes.

On windy days, deeper beds can be difficult to see. Drop a buoy on the back side of the nest, and move away to cast.

And tinboat guys, use a strip of pipe insulator over the top cap to protect your rods from nicks, and keep things quiet. My man Ronnie shows how perfectly in Jighead 1 on lunkerville: http://www.lunkerville.com/watchshow.html

To me they're just tools, but I'm not made of money, so I use a modicum common sense. Most of my stuff is in pretty good shape. One tip to you shore guys, tuck a small hand towel in your back pocket when you go out. When you need to set the rod down, set it on the towel. Saves a ton of wear and tear.

Actually, how I know it is far from ideal......

Very good points, but I bet I could catch your bird eating bass with a jig.

20# Seaguar CarbonPro will sink a Mattlures hardgill floater. I've used some really heavy fluoro leaders (50-100#) for pike, but the baits were 2x4's with hooks.

I am sure it work with some baits, but will alter the presentation. I am also sure it will actually sink certain baits, as I have observed 1st hand. As a general recommendation, it doesn't make sense. To a great many of us.

Calcutta B is VERY nice, I own a couple. But you gotta scour for $150 and less, or go used. They start at $200.

In other words, not on top? So your not really fishing topwaters anymore. You can try and try and try this one, but I'm sorry, not too many are going to buy this recommendation at all. I could see fluoro workign as a short leader to braid, something I in fact use with BIG topwater baits for northern pike, like 12" of 100# fluoro attached to 50# braid, but as you are describing it, and as a general recommendation for topwaters, mmmmmm no, it doesn't work dude. Sorry iif it seems like we're picking, we're not. I'd hate for some kid in your shoes to spend nearly $20 on a spool of line, only for it to simply not work the way topwaters work for everyone else.

Fluoro only has lower stretch when dry.

LOL, fluoro for topwaters. Fluoro's density is probably its chief attribute, even higher than invisibility, which I think is bunk. It isn't going to drown a big topwater, but its going to dip in the water, especially for slower, slack line retrieves - think poppers and spook type baits. I know from experience, 20# fluoro will take down a Mattlures Hardgill floater, so it will have an effect on smaller baits that sit low, like a Sammy 100. At any rate, I'd like to know EXACTLY how it improves topwater fishing. What baits, what its doing to the baits, what was happening before..... Because this smells like simple pride.