J Francho

Bassyaks probably has the best conversions for the $$$. http://www.bassyaks.com/ There is also Torqeedo, a higher end product: http://www.torqeedo.com/us/hn/products/ultralight/product-description.html

Anyone can test this without actually braking your rod...just run the line through all but the tip top. Pull string. Note slower action.

I understand actions, and I actually don't like that diagram. It looks like the same fast action rod, just with more pressure applied to it. I've got four broken spinning rods in my attic that disputes the faster claim. They are slower. The geometry of the rod is completely altered when removing the tip. More of the rod flexes when the tip is broken off. This diagram is MUCH better at illustrating actions:

Because, now more of the rod flexes, and by definition that is "slower." You associating the amount of force it takes to flex the rod with taper, and that isn't what taper is. A faster taper gets progressively smaller at the tip. Break the tip off, and the taper is slower than it was. Previously, the top 12" or so of the rod flexed on an X-Fast taper. Remove the tip, and more of the rod will flex, because the flexible tip is gone. Believe me, I've broken many tips, and I've never had a faster, more powerful rod as a result.

They all say the same thing, pretty much useless. What are you wondering about that you can't figure out yourself?

I figured I'd report back on this. I sent the email out about 10 minutes ago. I just got off the phone with Greg. He called to verify that it was a right hand retrieve reel - something I hadn't thought of, since there would be a difference in what side the slot that receives the clutch cam is on. The part will be in the mail tomorrow. Dayum. 8-)

You're all assuming that the taper is constant, and that just isn't the case. In any rod that I've broken the tip off, the rod became slower. I have no idea how making a rod shorter would add stiffness or power, though the sensation may translate to that. The only way to add power is increase the blank material's strength. That doesn't happen when you remove the tip.

Wouldn't know about the Bass Pro Shops reels, they bear a striking resemblence, internally speaking, to Pure Fishing reels. I do know that some of the Gander Mtn. branded reels are exactly the same as corresponding Pinnacles. Not surprising in this global economy...platform sharing has been part of the auto industry for over 50 years, why not the tackle industry?

Twist the side plate counter clockwise, I think its just an interference fit, IIRC. Remove the side plate, and the spool. The screw is behind the spool. I have to warn you, if your having trouble at this point, it might be worth the $15 to have Pinnacle do the maintenance for you, or have it serviced by a pro. It might save you the headache in the long run.

There is a screw behind the spool, Part# 25. http://www.southeastexporodandreel.com/web/attachments/006_isp10%20diagram.pdf

It is nice to have just the right rig. I guess it also comes down to how often we fish, and how much $ we're willing to put in. I think it also comes down to how long you've been fishing. I see many n00b posts asking for what shaky head rod, what dropshot rod, what tube rod, etc. when all they really need for all three is a 7' M/mod-fast rod. I just can't see how a young person just getting into the sport would need to specialize so early, when they haven't experienced enough fishing to know why a certain rod may be better. On the flip side of that, I se many offer their opinions about rod selection based on the fact that's all they've ever used. Try doing things on something differently, sometimes it ends up being better. Everybody wants a soft, XXXX-Fast tip on a frog rod. Makes it nice to throw those things a mile. Ever try to haul a six pounder from the slop with a rod like that? Not fun.

Getting back to the original question... This wasn't meant as a smarta$$ dig or anything, but an honest question. I've had several Pinnacle products come through for normal maintenance, some older, some newer, and while they are fine reels, they simply lack some of the refinement found in the "Big Four" reel makers' offerings. Now, that all said, if they are going to actively pursue angler support via schematics, replacement parts, and regular maintenance and service, then for the guy without an unlimited budget, it seems like a no brainer. Some guys would rather buy a brand new reel with a warranty, than a used higher end reel at a discount.

Sweet. Thanks, I'll verify that part when i get home tonight.

I need Part# 24 for a LP100. How much?

4" to 6" baits. I like them to be skinny, and they must float.

Its got bed fishing written all over it.

I used a Uni to Uni for years, until a friend suggested the Alberto knot. The issue I had with the Uni connection was when the diameters were geratly different, such as 15# braid, and a 10# leader. I would use a Spider Hitch knot to double the main line, but every once in a while, the knot would fail, with the braid slipping through the leader. Since switching to an Alberto knot, this issue disappeared. I wouldn't discourage anyone from using the Uni connection, though, since many have not had any issues with it. If you do, the Alberto is a good alternative.

You can get it at Wally Land: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Pinnacle-Vision-Slyder-Baitcast-Reel/10982933

I use a Daiwa 1500 series reel on my Kistler Drop Shot rod for this very reason. I generally run 15# braid, but have a backup spool with 4# Silverthread AN40. The real risk is in the drag system. Most reels below that 2500 size have a single metal and felt or fiber washer drag system. The bigger spools can accommodate a seven washer or more stack. Ironic?

Most typical bass fishing can be done with a 7' MH/F rod. I run a few dupes of this setup. However, as my fishing style has become specialized, so too has my equipment. I would not want to drop shot 40 FOW with a 7' MH/F rod. Nor would I want to toss light cranks with it. Time on the water and experience using certain baits and presentations has allowed me to develop a preference of what will work better. If I use that particular bait or technique a lot, I'm going to get the tools that work best for me. There are times when one of these "specialized" is used exclusively for weeks on end. Other times, something else. On tournament days, redundancy can mean a few more casts, which means a few more opportunities.

LMAO....that's funny.

I don't think so. I don't just fish ponds either. I'm weighing the pros and cons of adding either SI or an Aquaview to my rig. I have far more in tackle, electronics, and other gear than my boat is worth.... Point well taken. I was just considering resale value. If you add $4000 worth of electronics to a $6000 boat, the package will not be worth $10000. So, from an investment point of view, if the electronics are worth more than the boat, you may not do as well on resale. From a 'cool toys' point of view, heck, the more the merrier. I base my fishing related purchases on USEFULNESS, not RESALE.

Looks pretty good for a pond boat. I would be careful in "high seas." I have about $2500 into my boat, though it weighs only 80 lbs. so I can carry it on my roof. Fish to the strengths of such a boat, don't try to be a miniature bass boat, but a well equipped pond/creek/back water master. You can fish comfortably where guys with a big boat are restricted to shore because they can't launch. I'm thinking you won't need the 5 hp much. Leaving it behind will simplify a whole lot.

100s, 2 in Aurora Black, 2 in MS Am. Shad.

The finale is great. What a tool.