J Francho

Braid is LESS abrasion resistant than mono. If you're worried about abrading the mono too much then use flouro, but since this is topwater you'll probably be better served with a copoly. Yep, braid + zebes = breakoffs.

LOL, you failed English as well ;D Just poking fun - no harm meant

Laugh it up Dan, you failed 4th grade math as well, LOL The key to the answer is "seconds per postcard." In other words, "seconds/postcards." 1800/100 = 18 18 seconds/postcard.

Why would you go through all this? Take it back - its defective! The new Citicas and Curados I've tried in the store are smooth, silent, and effortless. Is your purpose to simply bash Shimano? Because I'm a Daiwa fan, and love to pick on the Shimano users, but come on man, you got a dud. It happens all the time. Just last week, I picked up a Sol - the last one the store had - and I didn't follow my own advice of checking the reel before paying for it. The thing made a scraping sound out of the box. Took it back, found another. That Shimano reel is head and shoulders a better reel than ANYTHING made by Zebco or Pure Fishing.

Well, I generally use braid in 50, 65, and 80# size. For the most part, 12# Leader works fine, when I use a leader. When I am fishing in spring, in areas where there are LARGE Northern Pike, I up the leader to 40#, to prevent big (10 lb. +) Pike from stealing my baits. In a general sense, you want to keep the diameter of your mainline and leader similar - makes for a strong Uni to Uni connection. If you are going to use lines with more than "three hops" in line size, say like 12# FC leader on 20# braid, then an improved Allbright knot will work, or you can use a Spider Hitch to double the smaller line. For your 30/8 line, I'd get a spool of 10# CFX, and just fish it. As I said before, if all you're doing is throwing into weeds, skip the leader, unless you are having trouble getting lighter baits down with just the braid - Fluoro sinks.

Try P-Line CFX Fluorocarbon Leader Material. Something in 8 to 12# will match well with the 30/8 braid. If you are fishing heavy weed cover, tie direct.

It depends on where you're from. Up here, we have Northern Pike, two species of Pickerel, Muskies, and hybrid Tiger Muskies. This is a Northern Pike: This is a Musky: This is a Chain Pickerel: This is a Tiger Musky (Northern x Musky):

My buddies and fish for Salmon starting around mid August through October, and then browns and winter steelhead through about now. Its tough to decide whether to go catch a dozen salmon in the river, or go out for giant smallies in the fall.

Can't go with two. Big: Berkley Power Shaky Worm, Zoom Trick Worm Small: Gambler Giggy Stick and Snake, Berkley Hand Pour Finesse Worm, Roboworm Straight Tail and Zipper.

If its indeed three years old, you'll want to verify that it is actually a TD Advantage HSTA, and not an HST. If its the latter, offer $50, otherwise $70 is fair, if in A+ mechanical condition.

Paul, I can only relay less technical results from my experience. I agree with Tommy, in that waypoint is best if used to get you to the spot, and antennae location may be a factor. My antennae and transducer are only about a foot apart (shoot thru hull puck). The spot on the spot, however is better located with the graph, and be using a feel bait. You can test this out using marker buoys in calm water, as noted. You'd be surprised that accuracy varies day by day, hour by hour. One thing that might help that I do is drop a waypoint for the "spot" and one or more for boat location to cats to the spot. This also works well for drifts out in Lake O., where its simply water everywhere. You mark your structure, and mark a couple of points for your start and endpoints of the drift.

You guys using catfish or trotline hooks: is the eye large enough to fit over the main hook? that's always been the issue with simply usintg any old hook for this.

Apparently, I thought I was doing it "wrong" but its actually right? I remember reading about the do nothing rig and Carolina rig in In-Fisherman, wayyyy back, and they said to basically chuck it, and reel it in slowly. After learning how to worm with a T-rig, I always thought I was doing it wrong. I haven't C-rigged in a long time, but I think it will be on my list of top 5 things to work on.

I'll have to check this out myself. My suspicion is that the bait will "roll" and not fish properly. I could be wrong... :-?

All plastics. 8-) What attractant to you like to use? For flukes and hollow belly swimbaits, rub the hook shank and belly of the lure with Magastrike. Helps with easier hooksets, and is a good scent.

Its P-Line CFX. Very good stuff.

Now that is funny!Seriously though, I don't think Megastrike had anything to do with the line breaking.

http://www.***.com/descpage-GTH.html. 1/0 or 2/0 serves most purposes just fine. For buzzbaits, I use 1/4" surgical or airline tubing (the latter you can get at a pet shop - its clear vinyl), and slide a 1/4" section over the eye. I then pierce the tubing with the bait's main hook, threading the trailer on to the hook bend. This keeps the hook riding upright. For spinnerbaits, I use smaller silicone tubing that I simply thread on after the trailer hook. it just keeps it from flying off, as I prefer the trailer to dangle free on a spinnerbait.

Its always about power with me. I need help....thank goodness for drags. ;D

Just reel down and set the hook with a vertical set. If you don't try to set the hook, you'll never catch the fish.

Been pricing out Bassarts and I'ze's already! Gotta clean a few more reels for those though

Huh? How has it saved your butt? A fishes "strength' is variable, and can't be predicted. Your line, rod and reel's limits are fixed, with the line usually being the weakest point. Set your drag appropriately, and rely on it.

Sorry to hear that....just kidding, there's some great fisherman in that club. You'll definitely want to ask the boater before meeting up at the ramp.

Thanks, and you answered my next question like you were reading my mind

My Sols have brass main gears and drive shaft, but my Alphas Ito has aluminum. Does anyone know what materials are used in the Type F, Type R, and vanilla Alphas? I thought the Type F and vanilla were brass as well, but its been a while since I've had one open.