J Francho

The "slow" 5.8:1 retrieve ratio of the Sol isn't the only consideration. It also has Mag Force-V braking system that is designed to work best with lighter baits on lighter line. I own two Sols and an Ito Alphas Ai. 5.8:1 is not noticeably slower than 6.2:1, but not 7+:1. remember, just a few years ago, 5:1 was "high speed." I have one on my light cranking rig (8#), and one for light jigs (10#). The Ito is for finesse plastics (6#). In a general sense, you are on the right track, but I wanted to let you know some more about these reels. Down the road, you may want to try something different.

If you are worried about visibility, just use a similar diameter fluorocarbon leader. I like Gamma Leader and P-Line CFX. Use a Uni to Uni knot connection.

P is for Pucci, the last name of the family that owns the company.

if the water was below 30°, you could walk on it

Thanks man, now i feel even dumberer.... ;D

Shill bids are against the rules. No way to enforce it, though. Shillers are the reason I use a sniper service.

I love every one of my topwaters. Can't Choose a favorite. One thing that's different about me, I sort my baits by what rod and reel I throw them with, not by type, so there are no buzzbaits in my "TW/Jerk/Frog" boxes. My brain doesn't even register a buzzbait as a TW, even though I know it is. Some of my favorite topwaters: Sammy Gunfish Spook Super Spook Spit 'n Image Devil Horse Chug Bug Pop-R Heddon Wooden Basser Heddon Wooden Lucky 13 Mini Slammer Bass Oreno Jitterbug, both solid and broke back

I've been on the receiving end of that type of threat (not here, of course). It ain't fun. Shame on them!

Gulp! Alive 3" minnows on a DS. Location is critical, you want to be where there lots of hungry smallies.

here is some very good info: http://www.rod-crafting.com/resource/articles/balancing.html.

I think part of its universal appeal (to bass, not tackle buyers) is that it contains elements common to forage in just about any waters. Add in the fact that its available in a variety of proven fish catchers (fat cranks, spinnerbaits, lipless, etc.) and you have a winning combination. I don't own a single bait in this color, though maybe I am stupid. I resisted "baby bass" for a decade, and that was a dumb move....

Seriously, man. Stop using it now. You have been lucky.

Dave, DO NOT USE WINDEX ON YOUR AQUARIUMS!!! It contains ammonia, and as it evaporates, ammonia gas, which is highly soluble. Use plain water, and a squeegee, or diluted vinegar and water and a newspaper. If you can use a remote flash, you can do some interesting work by lighting overhead: All Images © 2006, 2007 John J. Franchot

Ignore the question. He's looking for a number to put in his sniper service.

http://www.mudhole.com/Shop-Our-Catalog/Grips/st-croix-handles See Item E.

On our last club outing to the Bass Pro in Auburn, we convinced a salesman to take the hooks off a Live Sammy and cast it in the tank to to see the action. Needless to say, there was a huge pickerel that rocketed from the other side and took it as it hit the water, LOL. We were all like little kids with our noses pressed against the glass watching.

I've used the gut removal technique on a few bass that I caught that had hooks stuck in their gut already. It works well. I can't remember the last time I gut hooked a bass, but I'm sure I did.

The only time anything close to this ever happened to me was when I left an old Daiwa Tournament Ti UL rod in my car on a very hot day. The tip was VERY flexible, and was bent over. To this day there is a permanent bend in the tip. Its such a limber rod though, once you tie a 1/16 oz. jig on, it fishes just fine.

This was explained to me by an old timer. It gets more sunlight that any other part of a lake or pond, and therefore should be warmer. I always took that logic at face value, but this year, as I've been hunting small ponds at ice out for bass, without exception, that corner was the 1st to thaw. I though that was pretty cool.

I'm not sure its so much an added hump on the Avids over the LTB as it is that the full rear cork is thinner than most other brands. At any rate, the "bump" doesn't faze me, but I do sand the thinner section down about a 1/4" to my liking and round the rubberized cork butt. I use Avids for my treble hook baits - I have three now - and having a full cork rear grip is a must for me.

My son sets up challenges in my front yard, while pitch or flip to a coffee can target. Sometimes he puts in "cover" and even lays it on its side, with the opening to the side, or pointing away from me. The object is to get the jig in the can. This is both fun for both of us, and builds the muscle memory so you can concentrate on presentation instead of casting accuracy and mechanics while on the water.

I just use what is right (for me) for the situation at hand. i never really sat and thought about the ratio, or cared. When I analyze my fishing, its about catching vs. not catching.

A good PFD that you'll actually wear is important. Putting the plug in is pretty good advice too, LOL. I used to attach mine to the boat keyring. You'll remember you forgot when you go to start the boat.

If you like a longer, slower action rod for JB, it will be fine. Personally, I prefer a shorter, faster rod. I'm not too tall, so the shorter rod aids in keeping the rod tip out of the water, and I feel the faster action allows for a faster recover after each tip. This means more control of you bait. I use a 6'2" M/XF rod for this.

Concentrate your efforts on the northwest corner of any water. I caught my 1st of '09 yesterday on a Pointer 100.