J Francho

I've been waiting for reel makers to start using wide, shallow spools, combined with high gear ratios to maintain a near constant IPT through out the retrieve. So far, haven't seen anything of the sort. So, you'd have a spool that is maybe 1/3 the diameter m, but twice as wide. Even though it might be a 7.1 reel, it would only pickup 25 IPT. Would be cool for cranking.

There's more variables to "cranking power" - or a better term: leverage - than just ratio. Actual gear size, weight, material, tooth size, and geometry each contribute. Want to know the difference between a $100 reel and a $400? Chances are it's in one of things I listed above.

I also work on reel. As long as you don't crank your drag down so hard the spool will never slip, you can use pretty much whatever line you want. Does that mean use 200# braid? Well, no. It also doesn't mean 2# braid is appropriate either. I use 40-80# braid on low profile baitcasters. There's no issue with premature wear. What does wear reels out prematurely is heavy use without simple maintenance, and a yearly cleaning by a pro like MIke @ DVT.

He's persona non grata in MANY kayak circles now.

You could have stopped there. The rest is irrelevant.

Typical shill for a sponsor. He's better off just telling the truth, instead of spreading marketing nonsense.

My friend Tim Kelly from England pronounces it "FILL-it."

I don't really notice a difference. Alberto knots are all about practice and checking your work. And lots of spit!

It reads surface temps, which can vary dramatically, from spot to spot, and day to day. Can even change as the sun rises and warms a calm cove or bay.

I'd say the biggest problem is locating NOS parts, or even scavenging off old, broken motors for parts should something go wrong.

Cool.

Less about position, and more about stroke. You should only be using core muscles to move the boat, not your arms. Your arms should only bear the force of guiding the paddle. Your core handles propulsion. Whatever position locks your butt and feet into the boat, with your knees bent, back slightly arched, and paddle over your lap should be fine.

I will say this, I like to turn any fish ID settings off. For regular sonar, I remove surface clutter, turn sensitivity up until it starts to paint the whole screen, and then dial it back so there is just enough detail. If I'm cruising around, mixed 83/200. Shallow, 83, deep 200. 200 whenever I'm looking for the smallest detail. I usually run SI on the side that the shoreline is, unless I suspect something off shore. I use DI in split screen with regular sonar for detail on smaller spots. I always like the RTS window at the wide setting. Those are just generic settings I like. YMMV. Any specific settings, are water specific, sometimes they change day to day.

That depends on your specific situation, and the water you're fishing. I suggest you put it in simulator mode, and work through each of the features, so you're familiar with all the settings, and what they do. It took me a few hours to lean the Helix 5/7 models with SI and GPS. My settings might not necessarily translate for you, though.

I would use straight fluoro or a strong coply for those baits. I like Seaguar Tatsu, in 12 and 15 for spinnerbaits, and 10 for deep cranks, or 10# P-line CXX for all of those.

Depends on what you're fishing. Bait? Depth? Cover?

No, it won't change a senko's action. I don't know what difference memory would have to tying knots. Practice makes tying knots easy.

Anything less than 1/2 oz. or 100mm, I like a spinner. The rest, casting gear. In both cases, I like 6' to 6'6", medium power, x-fast taper. The fast action offers the bast control for slight twitches.

To each their own. I was a chef in a former life, and learned to use the right knife for the job. I suppose you can use a filet knife to cut through bones, but you're gonna have to sharpen more frequently. A more rigid blade works better, though that Cutco knife I have can probably cut through bones. It isn't the best at filleting, though. Not as flexible.

Not sure why you'd cut through bones with a fillet knife, lol. If I have to cut through bone, I use a sharp kitchen knife. I'll do this on large fish, like king salmon, where filleting a 24" + steak off the bone just isn't feasible. For panfish, that isn't necessary.

I have two boats. In one boat the carpet is light gray, the other is black. When it's hot, it's hot. Carpet color doesn't make it any better or worse. Black alumininum or gel coat? That will burn your hand. Both boats have that.

First, keep a topwater on hand, and a senko rod ready. Get a few suspending baits you like. Staysee and DD Pointers have a limited use window, though they are killer when they are chasing baits from the depths (they usually will chase them). Always drop senkos at missed bites. If they're really aggressive, just throw a walking popper (Popmax) or a spook type (Sammy, or other), and sit back and enjoy the show. That lake is beautiful, btw.

I'd say I'm pretty hard pressed to whip a 1/16 oz. hair jig (wet, it's probably just shy of a 1/4 oz.) much more than 40 feet with the right rod. I wouldn't even bother tying it anything more than 4# line. Anything over 6# is too high for a light bait like that.

I heard it has that erratic action that fish just can't stand. Anyway, I have a Cutco Fisherman's friend fillet knife, as well as a couple old, wood handle Rapalas. Hands down, the best one is some Asian thing My Laos friend gave me. Not sure what it is, but was well used, and works great. I imagine you talk to a sushi chef, and they'll lead you in the right direction.

I prefer leader mat'l, especially in light line applications. If you're going to use a reel fill line, then at least use a premium brand. No reason to skimp out here, and use crap like Vanish.