J Francho

Did someone's wife start this thread?

Salmon Crazy. Lots of spin and pinners there.

Trolling is usually done at .5 to 1.25 mph. That's a really slow paddle. No effort paddling usually gets me to almost 3 mph. For that reason, trolling is something I do on a particular place, not something I do going from place to place. Make sense?

Call me crazy, but I WANT the bait to tear when I set the hook. I'd rather get the fish in the boat than the bait.

Sometimes I think it would be cheaper to throw a few rolls of quarters into the lake than any of my lures.

There was a lot of trial and error getting the height right on my boat. No way I'm changing it now, lol.

Best time is when you need it.

Oh, and ditch the MH, and get a H/F. That with braid and a high speed reel and you'll be jackin' the big mouths.

Statistically, dinks have the worst hookup ratio with frogs hence the bad rap on hookup. Otherwise, I hardly ever miss good fish on a frog. You sure you weren't getting nailed by dinks?

Set back doesn't automatically give you performance. It depends on the hull, which you haven't indicated.

If I'm gonna quit trying to fish, then I'm gonna use the legitimate senko, lol.

ATAK, if you control the new prop pod with your toes, lol. Your probably looking for a pond prowler or something similar for bass boat like control. Or you can fish a kayak like a kayak, like you said. It's every bit as efficient, if you have the right tools: drag chain, stakeout pole, steering with your bait, etc.

A $3 lure that doesn't work properly is more expensive than a $20 lure that catches over and over. Most lures are more like $8 to $16 though. The ones that are pricey are plastics, with hooks and weights you buy separately, that are only good for a few fish. I have topwaters and cranks that have lira rely caught hundreds of fish each.

Long shaft Maxxum works for me.

There's a spot I stick them with topwaters at dusk that's 90+ feet deep. I assume they're on a ledge, and attacking the bait in open water.

You might want to look into the hull weights of the boats you're looking at, if you have lifting issues. The Old Town is over 100 lbs. the NuCanoe is pretty heavy too, as is the Lure. A Hobie is out of the question. I'm not sure a TM is straight forward for the Lure. You might consider a Wilderness Systems Commander. The 140 is only 65 lbs. Hookup for a TM is straight forward, and two seating positions, plus a stable platform that even a big guy can stand in makes it ideal.

I like big fish water.

You can add gear track to any boat. Yakattack sells everything you need in both light and heavy duty.

Power poles usually are attached to the jack plate…

I have saved way points, settings, snapshots, etc. Mine is from a sealed box. The only thing I've done other than change a few settings is add a Lakemaster chip. I guess since it works fine, it doesn't matter.

Sorry Wayne, that's wrong. I fire my unit up without a TD connected, and it goes strait to demo mode, with a prompt asking to use sim mode by pressing any button. Just tried it on my unit. Maybe there is another setting? You want a picture of it?

Yes Wayne, that's what I meant. I think by default it goes to demo mode without a transducer connected, if you don't choose anything on startup. If you're in demo mode, pressing any button takes you to sim mode, so it's not a big distinction. I think it actually goes back to demo if you leave it for a time.

^ Especially with moving baits. I love it when you almost get a rod yanked outta your hands.

I'm fishing with Paul tomorrow night. I'll get a pic of it, since we need to do some boat trading.

You need some sort of crossbar and some padding. An old roof rack and a pool noodle worked. I use the cheap DSL lock straps. The ratcheting style tend to be over tightened too easily, goofing up your hull. You want the straps smug, not tight.