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Any Tricks To Help Save Soft Plastics From Blowing Out The Tip On Texas Rigged Hooks?

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Hey all, just looking for some tips on keeping soft plastic baits, mainly Texas rigged stuff, from exploding the tip when catching fish. I saw that trick that Glenn did, when he put the piece of large diameter line through the plastic and the eye of the hook. Are there any other ways to help with this? also, is braid helping to cause this? I usually just tie directly to braid. would using a leader of fluoro, copoly, or mono help them last longer?  I figure I can use Mend It to bring some life back to these baits that I have now and just use them again or use them with Jigs or something else, instead of throwing them out.

 

Here's a pretty well used bait, but it happens to new baits a lot too.

 

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Put the bait on like you normally would, covering the hook eye. Take an extremely stiff line like 30lb flourocarbon, push it into the bait, through the eye, and out the other side, and snip off the excess on both sides. 

 

Holds it in place and really increases the strength where you're having problems. Reinforces exactly what you're looking for.

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When mine get in that condition, I take my scissors and snip about a 1/4" off the head of the worm. Clean head, worm a little shorter, and continue using it.

Hootie

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Check out Mend-It soft plastics glue.

 

Save the "Repairable" baits, glue them up & reuse.

 

It works Wicked Good.

 

:eyebrows:

 

A-Jay

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When mine get in that condition, I take my scissors and snip about a 1/4" off the head of the worm. Clean head, worm a little shorter, and continue using it.

Hootie

I do this too. And fish will still bite it, sometimes better.

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Check this out.

http://www.basspro.com/Mustad-Ultra-Point-Impact-Hook/product/30055/

It tears up the head of the worm even less than a twist lock when it gets pulled out. Then when the body gets chewed up, turn the body of the worm 90 or 180 degrees and re-hook it.

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Skip gap hooks help, as do twistlocks. Otherwise just Mend It and it'll be good as new.

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Put your worm weight on your line, then slide one end of a #8 swivel on the line. Tie on your hook. Slide the head of the worm up the hook. Then take the other hole of the swivel and slide it up the hook. Then finish Texas rigging your worm. The swivel will make the head of the worm stay in place.

Hootie

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I got enough plastics as it is. But I do use mustad grip pins and they do help

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Bite off the tip or super glue

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Top brass rubber Peg-It; tie on the hook to your line then slide the Peg-It through the hook eye until snug, then clip off the ends so 1/8" sticks out each side of the eye. Rig your soft plastic like you normally would, pull the hook eye with the Peg-It ends into the worm nose and it will not tear or pull out when hooking and fighting the bass.

Tom

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Put the bait on like you normally would, covering the hook eye. Take an extremely stiff line like 30lb flourocarbon, push it into the bait, through the eye, and out the other side, and snip off the excess on both sides. 

 

Holds it in place and really increases the strength where you're having problems. Reinforces exactly what you're looking for.

^^This^^  however just use cheap 30lb. mono from WM.

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Try a parasite clip. Been using them for years now. Has saved me countless amount of money on baits.

 

http://www.basspro.com/Parasite-Worm-Weight-Clips/product/93400/

 

i've heard a few people talk about these and i just don't understand exactly how they work, not even from the picture on the BPS website....  may just have to get some and try them out.  Which size do you use the small or medium?

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I go in the opposite direction. Instead of keeping the bait from sliding up and onto the line, I slather the bait with an oil based fish attractant (I like Kickn' Bass).  The bait ends up on the line but the oil lubricates it so it's not damaged at all.  I work the attractant into the holes the hook makes in the bait.  This also prevents a thick bait like a Senko from balling up on the hook and spoiling a good hookset.

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Call me crazy, but I WANT the bait to tear when I set the hook. I'd rather get the fish in the boat than the bait.

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I've used the "thick mono line through the bait and hook eye" trick from Glenn's video and it works, BUT I had a hard time getting the line through the hook eye.  I miss the eye most of the time.  Lately I've been using Owner Twistlock hooks and I'm impressed.  The bait stays on the twistlock and I'm getting great hooksets, no bait balled up on the hook, and the plastics are lasting way longer.

 

I've always been a Gamakatsu guy, but those Owner hooks are sharp and stay sharp!  No plans right now to go away from these Owner Twistlocks.

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I've used parasite clips and they do work.  Unfortunately, they require you to remember to put them on the line before you tie the hook.  Trivial, no?  Not for me.  And when I inevitably forget, I almost always choose not to cut the line, put on the clip and retie.

 

Buzz, take a look at this:

 

But skip to 1:30...it doesn't really take four minutes to put one on :)

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Bite off the tip or super glue

 

 

+1

 

One thing I've found to work well is to use Dermabond, SurgiSeal, etc. (super glue for skin/first aid).  I run the worm up the hook until I'm ready to rotate the hook.  I put a couple of drops of the skin super glue on the hook eyelet then finish running the worm up the eyelet and through the body.

 

You can even glue the weight directly to the worm too if you don't want the sinker moving.  

 

The stuf works great for a few reasons.  If it gets on your skin its not as bad as super glue.  It gives enough strength so your T-rigged worm or weightless Senko stays put (even on phantom hook sets), but breaks free if a bite needs it to break free.  It's also more pliable, so it doesn't dry out plastics as bad as super glue does.  When the tip of a worm does get worn out a couple more drops of dermabond fixes it right back up without hardening the tip. It also doesn't smell as bad as regular super glue.  

 

There's a pond that I fish at least four times a week with nothing but 2-3lbs largemout (very occasional 4-5lb'er).  They only hit a SES5-57 Smokey Shad Strike King Shim E Sticks.  That's it!!!  I've went through every possible color combo on every other kind of lure and worm.  That's all they want to eat, and they hit it like a spinner bait about 3sec after it hits the water.  Needless to say I bought about 20 packs of that one Shim E Stick.  I catch 8-10 fish every 3hr visit.  That normally translates into 1 Shim E Sticks every two visits with the Dermabond/SurgiSeal setup.  They last a lot longer.  The original Senko's don't quite last as long as the Strike King brand but I still get about twice the life out of them than you normally would.

 

On a side note; The SES5-57 Smokey Shad Strike King Shim E Sticks have caught me A LOT of bass in every (every) body of water I've fished in Ohio in the last four months.  It almost seems like the magic combo.  When they don't hit anything else, they hit that; unusually hard too.  Just a heads up if you haven't tried it!

 

God Bless

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Here's your answer.  Cheap, effective, easy.

 

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^^This^^  however just use cheap 30lb. mono from WM.

 

Same idea, except I use a tooth pick and cut the excess off either end.  If a toothpick fits through the eyelet of the hook im using that is. 

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The swivel works exactly like the Parasite clip, and it's a whole lot cheaper.

Hootie

What an ingenious solution that most of us have in our bags already Hootie.  I watched the video and can imagine your solution working the same and for less $$. 

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