J Francho

Are you saying you have a 14 inch, 11 pitch prop? That sounds way too shallow, even for a pontoon. You need to do a prop slip calculation, do a google search, and report the numbers. My guess, you need something more like a 20 or 22 pitch prop. My 115 ELPTO pushes my 1400 lb. bass boat to over 50. I think I have a 23P Lazer on it.

Good work!

I used to do that, but the chunks are more durable, so I went back to carrying both. There are cases where the chunks aren't available in the same color as the craw, so for that I'm chewing coffee scented plastic.

Those are good points. Something I think I take for granted. Probably something I forget sometimes too. Slowing down is tough when your not getting bit. A lighter jig forces you to slow down. Good stuff.

SUP = Stand Up Paddleboard

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Yanks, Knicks, Cowboys, Irish, Orange.

I generally will not pay over 65% of retail. Most of my rods and reels were around a $150 - $250.

Pike fisherman have solved this issue years ago. There are plenty of ways to rig a trailer hook into a plastic bait added to a jig. Look up "quick strike rigs" for ideas. Personally, I think you should only try it out if your actually having issues. Don't fix a problem that isn't there! Usually a color change, retrieve speed, or weight/profile change will convert short bites into inhales.

Fluorocarbon Leader material (not reel fill line) and braid will be you're lowest stretch option, if you want to use fluoro.

I have a Dragonfly, and it would suit you well. It's pretty easy to use. It has a dial and a joystick instead of 30 buttons. Menus are similar to Humminbird.

I set brakes to 0 and use extra spool tension on my Daiwas for skipping.

Shimano increments the letter as models are updated. The first number is a general size classification. A trailing "1" means it's a lefty. The last number is retrieve speed. As far as features go, you really have to just compare specs. As far as what series letter is better, that's all debatable, price is certainly a consideration. Is a Citica E better than a Curado G at the same price? Not always an easy question.

What is that you think you're missing using braid over fluoro in weeds?

3/16 oz.? From the back of the boat? That's not enough to take the bow out of fluoro, and keep the bait pinned in place, especially if you're not in control of the boat. I start at 1/2 oz. The tag can be as short as 6", or as long as 3'. Usually around 12-18".

I think you need to fish more!

Here's my new frog rod. Loving it! http://www.bassresource.com/fishing_lures/primmus-reel-dhc-7-rod-review.html

I'm not sure why there's so much venom directed toward the guys that just want the truth. Telling a story is one thing, and I love the embellishment. But doctoring a photo or deliberately misleading someone bugs some people. They don't hate the liars, it just bugs them. But the guys that are dead set against the truth seems a little weird to me. Maybe I'm misunderstanding things. I'm a cut and dry guy. Btw, the largemouth in my avatar went 3.79 lbs on the KTBA's certified scale. I fished with Tim Kelly that day, and he thought it was at least 5. Even the best have a hard knowing. That's why they carry a scale, I suppose.

Higher speed has nothing to do with what happens when you have a bass on the line - you move the bass with the rod, not the reel. A faster reel is nice for getting your bait back in quickly, and fiing another cast off. That's really it. Everything else is preference. It's also important to note that as spool diameters decrease, ratios must increase in order to maintain high IPT targets.

Topwater or a jig.

Paul, you're a good guy, and you're good with me. Happy fathers' day bud.

Done. Tuf-Line SuperCast.

The right rod with just about any reel is better than a screaming reel and the wrong rod, for chucking cranks.

Get some pics and post them up. Jeep Jamborees are crazy fun.

My buddy has been fishing out of Pungo 12 and 14 since before kayak fishing was cool. If you want a sink to fish, that's the one to get.