J Francho

You remove the two larger screws on the cranking side to remove the gearbox, thus exposing the spool for removal. According to TT, the reels are shipped with three brakes on, so really, I think this comes down to technique. There's no diference between a lowpro centrifugal brake reel and a round reel, casting wise. So, if you can cast a Chronarch or Citica fine, then you should be able to cast the Calcuta. My guess is that your technique needs practice when throwing heavier baits.

It's not the reel. Set four brakes to "on" in an "X" pattern, and adjust the spool tension so that the bait just slowly drops when you press the thumb bar. All else is user training.

What reel? My round baitcast reels are set up and cast the same as the low pros. Sounds like yours is either something else, like a conventional or boat reel, or isn't set up properly.

Flying Lure? LOL. Seriously though, I like to skip an unweighted plastic, like a fluke, senko, or Fat Ika either right in tight to the outboard/stern drive or tight to where the bow enters the water. Those baits will sometimes drift under(ish) the boat on the fall. Now show me a docked pontoon boat, and I'll skip it way under the middle! Pontoons are where it's at!

LOL, my grandfather is a self made millionaire. Started out with a hot dog cart. Has four successful restaurants now. He'll tell you he was just "lucky" though.

I generally use my heavy cover flipping stick for both - triple duty!

It's a fallfish. Creek chubs have a distinctive mouth and are never all silver. Fallfish: Chub:

If it's not chipped, you can temporarily fix it by gluing it back in with super glue. The proper fix is having the whole guide replaced. It's not too pricey. I have a local guy (his wife, actually) that rewraps new guides for the few I break every season.

Hold on to the rods - resale value of rods isn't that strong, and add in the shipping, it becomes a no win. They are expensive to replace as well. Reels, on the other hand, if well maintained and in good condition can command upwards of 80% of their purchase price. Like anything, some have better resale value than others. I suggest doing an advanced search on eBay of "completed" auctions for the exact reel models you intend to sell. This will give you an idea of what people are paying for used gear, not what is being offered.

I'd pretty much echo what Dwight said.

For froggin', I prefer a faster reel with an aluminum frame, and a strong drag.

For braid, it helps prevent fading.

I used the 20# Tatsu for spinnerbaiting, spooled on an Alphas 103 reel saddled to a Saint Croix Avid AVC68MXF. Since I generally spinnerbait in heavy cover - laydowns, rip rap, other abrasive nasty stuff - I like a large diameter line. I tried the new (at that tme) 17# AbrasX. It worked fine, but the 20# Tatsu was much more manageable, and featured that "measured stretch" that I've come to love about Tatsu. Yes, it stretches at first, but then it locks down, and there's a broad range of strength before it deforms and breaks, unlike other lines that aren't quite right after being pushed to the edge of their breaking point. It's had to explain, and something that must be felt first hand. It's not a line I'd recommend to anyone for everything, but for certain things, it's definitely worth the money.

I pretreat filler spools. Then I simply spray each spool after every trip. It needs to dry in order to work to it's fullest potential.

The XR6 is a good motor. Carbed, so cold starts are a pain.

Sponsorship is not all it's cracked up to be...it turns your hobby into a job. Unless you are prepared to make that step, and have the skills necessary to lend credibility to your sales pitch, then I recommend waiting until a company notices you rather than pursuing them. To become a better fisherman, read, fish, talk to other anglers, read posts on these forums, watch videos, etc. - all good stuff. The most important thing is time on the water. Don't try to do it all at once. Try a few bait types, and a limit your gear to a few combos that suit what you are doing. Last of all, try to find a club or tournament series that is a team format. You'll learn the most in this format.

That little guy? Don't worry about that little guy.

$75 for a 11.1v battery? LOL, I'd just get a 12v 7ah battery from Radio Shack for $20.

I'd get a sit on top kayak over a canoe, if stability was my main concern.

With a moving bait, I prefer to have my rod 60 to 90* to the line, in order to get the best feel of the bait, and maximize the rod as a shock absorber during the strike.

If you reel in moving baits with pressure on the same side of the reel, you'll get stacking. Happens with every make and model reel I have ever owned. The larger the diameter line, the more pronounced it can be.

Never had plastics "dry out." Gulp baits dry out, but they have their own juice in the bucket to bring them back. Got any pics of dried out plastics?

The south end of the lake has needed some cover for a long time. I'll be drop shotting it this weekend.

You could also try no pest strips. Less drastic than flea bombs.