islandbass

Man, sorry to hear that. I can feel that pain all the way over here. I think more of my losses of fish occur with treble lures that for one reason or another, with which I don’t manage to get a good hookset. At least you were on the dance floor twice.

I think you need to buy a slurpee or big gulp enroute to your fishing grounds. That might increase your odds in landing an 8-10 lb. bass, lol.

Thanks. Some of the rivers in my area and saltwater require barbless hooks so I have a little experience with them and it has been positive. The challenge it seems for me is finding bass hooks that a barbless which I prefer if possible than crimping the barb down. I will start crimping those barbs next trip.

Alright guys and gals. If you’re willing to admit it, whether it’s embarrassing or not, tell us what you have yet to do in fishing. This excludes lures so saying something like, “I’ve never caught a bass on a jig,” has already been done. So none of these examples of never ever or yet to accomplish. This is mine... I have yet to catch a fish, any species, in winter. I’ve caught fish in December, but dad gummit, most of December is technically still autumn. ?

Thanks for reporting your findings. A longer rod would definitely help. See if you can find an 8’6” or 9’6” medium powered rod, spinning or casting, your choice. In my neck of the woods both lengths are quite common. You would probably meet that same distance with much less effort and exceed it with the same. The downside is a longer rod does weight more but nothing is perfect. And don’t forget to swap those silly trebles for a single hook. Siwash hooks are a great choice. The neat thing with them is they come open eyed so you won’t need split ring pliers. Just simply put the spoon’s split ring in the open eye and close the eye shut with pliers. I realize braids traits are pretty decent, ie thinner diameter for more strength, near zero stretch, fishing in the think grass and pads, but then I realized I hardly ever face that condition. Braid compared to mono and Fluoro for more has also caught the fewest fish for me. Fluro is awesome but so dang pricey. Can I afford it? Yes. It’s refractive index is impressive, but how much farther off is mono from it? As for mono, it’s economical and works fairly well and is reliable and although it has memory, which can be unsightly, I have not noticed any loss in fish catching. Mono is my line of choice now and for the past near decade. Those anglers of yesteryear who are still alive today and forgotten more than we know about fishing only had mono and they kicked phanny. Please note I am not knocking braid or fc. I like those lines but I choose mono for its cost effectiveness (bottom line for me) and results. I might still use 6# fc line. particularly Seaguar invisx if I feel like splurging on line but $22 for 200 yards is a tough pill to swallow. Why? Because the environment I use it in is primarily is drop shotting in rip rap from the shore. Forced break offs happen often and in one outing I could lose 15 yards easy. 2 sessions later with the an average loss of line and now my reel is no longer at optimum operating capacity. I know I told JFrancho I’d try tatsu but when I saw the price, WOW!! It costs more than a Berkeley cherrywood rod, lol. Maybe I’ll treat myself to it soon.

I did once but that is a story for another day, lol. I can loan you a tape measure, fins and a life preserver, lol.

Do you currently have trebles on your spoons? One thing that would help and this is from my personal experience is to switch them out for a single hook, like a siwash hook. Also, how far is way out there for you? The farther your cast is and the shorter your rod, the less control you will have over your line, including on the hookset. The advice given to you by the flyfisher is spot on. There is a reason people who target salmon and steelhead use 8'6 and up. Line control and the better chances of setting the hook from, as in your own words, "wayyyy out there." lol. Lastly, one other thing to keep in mind is to maintain tension in the line when you have a fish on. Any slack you give them gives them a chance to jump. Having the rod being "up" or "down" needs to be clarified. If you are holding your rod "up" in such a way that your rod is practically perpendicular to the earth is a no-no when you're fighting a fish OR setting the hook. 45 degrees is the ideal for the most power in the hook set and in the controlling the fish. You see, 45 degrees is "up" from the rod pointing down, but it is "down" relative to 90 degrees. Using your rod in this manner greatly increases your chances of landing the fish and is a sign you are using your tool effectively and efficiently.

There is pic floating out there with a huge treble in a guy’s eye. Hearing these stories is making me consider going barbless. I pricking myself lately but fortunately it hasn’t gone past the barb.

If you’re going to fishing spinnerbaits that last thing you want is to use a “weak leader” so to speak. Glad and to see your are going to go direct tie. I don’t fish too heavy a cover but for spinnerbaits, I personally won’t us any line less than 10# mono equivalent, use 10# in a pinch if no other choice, and at least 12# mono equivalent diameter. You going with 15# braid doesn’t meet my personal preferences but don’t let that stop you. Sometimes thinner and limper lines can get “caught up” on the lure tied on. It’s not a show stopper as much as it’s an irritant because you make a beautiful cast only to realize the line gets caught up on the lure thereby ruining that cast. Yeah it’s anal and peevish but sometimes my fishing outings are like barely 20 minutes and in these cases, I don’t like to have “wasted” casts, lol.

If the lip broke or split, more often than not it’s user screw up. Rapalas are quality out the gate. DTs have excellent castibilty and can be thrown a country mile.

The only time it will matter is if you are going to drop shot AND use the palomar knot. Hold the hook with the point facing skyward and feed the line through the hook eye from sky to ground. Its converse is also true, so you could hold the hook facing toward the earth and feed the line through the eye from ground to sky. If not, your hook will be pointing downward.

I agree. However, IMHO, it is higher compensate for the loss made at the knot. Some really “over do” it. This is an arbitrary example. Take 10# mono and tie it to a hook with a palomar knot. Let’s say that the palomar retains 90% of the line’s strength. Well, you’re effectively fishing with 9# test now, not 10#. I think this is why some line makers make the lines break at slightly higher than the rating on the spool or box, to compensate for that loss. To the topic: The creation of the perception to think you need to have the latest and cutting edge gear. Baits, equipment. I’m not against companies marketing as such. I get they got to make their money. I don’t play that game, and I don’t bite hook, line and sinker.

Pacific NW for me. No chance. Thanks for the word, Glenn. ?

I hear you. Most anglers probably leave their rods (particularly casting rods) in what I dub, “intact” mode after fishing, and by that, the lure or hook is still attached to the line and resting on a hook keeper. If you are one who does this, then the chances of this happening to you is zero. If you completely break down your casting rod like I do, and by this I mean you cut off the lure and crank the line all the way back to the spool, this is when it can happen, especially if the first foot or two of line is loose enough to make coils. Btw, I done that too with the guides too, lol. Embarrassingly enough, I’ve been so eager to get fishing that I actually forgot to put the line through the line guide on the reel and went straight to the rod guides. To make it worse I didn’t realize until I notice my line was piling up in one place. ?

Make some loops appear on your spool. Next insert your line through at least one of them and proceed to put the line through the guide and then line the rod. this is what I think the op was trying to describe. I have inadvertently done this as a newby and wondered how it happened and eventually figured it out. One if the best ways to prevent it is to not let the end of your line go completely back through the line guide to the spool.

Guys, he’s saying his line is under a loop. @Decbro21: I think I know what you’re talking about. But to be sure I understand, you are saying that somehow, some way, your line is under a loop of line before it goes out the through the line guide toward the guides. If if this is the case, there is nothing wrong with the reel. It has to do with having loose enough loops on the spool and your line is already under one of those loop(s) BEFORE you insert the line through the line guide. Sometimes, the end of your line on the spool can get under a loose loop or two before you feed your line through the line guide and this can be done unknowingly. The only way to fix this is to bring the line all the way back to the spool. have the drag mildly set. This is to prevent potential overrun loops while you pull line off the reel (not fed through the line guide but free) until you get to the loop that the line is under. Pull the main line out from under the loop and afterward, crank the handle til most of the loose line is back on the spool. Now you can get back to fishing. Whenever I line my casting rods, I always make sure that my line is not under a loose loop. This is can happen if the reel’s drag is completely backed off which is what I do after every outing and as a result, the first bit of line on the spool can be loose enough to make coils and the standing line somehow gets under said loop(s). Lines that have memory can increase this likelihood but it can happen to any line.

The dunking is most likely the culprit. Even seemingly clear water can have particles that we don’t easily see. If any any of my reels get dunked, they get cleaned.

That is a great use of space and an exercise in practicality, that suggest function over form. I store mine without reels horizontally in a section of my garage near the ceiling where they cannot be seen by anyone looking into my garage. Out of sight.

I hate to say this because it reminds me of myself who at times tends to overthink and over analyze to the point of analysis paralysis. In addition, it isn’t winter any longer when thinking too is one way to pass the time. After the cast is made the first thing the thumb needs to do is protect against a possible overrun such that it might need to slow the spool down the spool by “feathering” the spool to slow its speed if and only if necessary. The less aerodynamic the lure the more you have to be mindful of this possibility and guard against it. Spinner and buzz baits when they get caught up in the wind can cause an overrun to start when a lure like a DT6 is less likely. A properly set reel to the lure in good conditions, will hardly ever need a thumb to do this but you should always be prepared. To answer your question you take the thumb off after you stop the spool completely. Since you overthink like I do, we need to look at the possible outcomes from this point: 1) Do I need to dish out line to allow a bait to sink? If yes then dish out the line with your hand not holding the rod and the thumb on your other hand putting only enough pressure to prevent the line on your spool for overrunning. After your bait reaches the depth you turn the handle to engage the reel. This also enables the drag. 2) Is this a technique that I don’t need to have the lure sink like a crank bait? Then turn the crank to engage the reel. You may wish to allow the ripples caused by your lure to settle before starting your retrieve or not. Your choice. If by chance you get a hit during the fall, your thumb can act as your drag so that you can set the hook, but you had better start turning the handle ASAP and engage in the battle we crave ... Basically, you take it off the spool when it isn’t needed.

What a refreshing perspective and it's one I personally subscribe to. High quality gear is great and can make the fishing experience more enjoyable, but is not necessary. I can fit all my effective fish catching stuff into one backpack and tackle bag. My wife's uncle is an avid angler like us and he loves catching bass and other species. He has a simple ugly stick rod and reel and my gear, although modest is "high end" to him. He proceeded to catch 4 bass in the span it took me to line my 3 rigs. It was then I had that revelation and I'm glad for it. I won't knock anyone who insists on high gear. It is their prerogative. It is also hard "to go backward" however, once you've eaten the forbidden fruit.

Where is the line breaking? At the knot? Above the knot? It could help to narrow the culprit. More often than not, and we are all guilty of it, angler error, is the usual reason: 1) Failure to detect the weak spots. Sometimes we don't find them. 2) Poorly tied knot, as unlikely as that is. 3) Worn out knot, eg, a weight banging on it during the retrieve. 4) Line that has lost its integrity. 5) The fish had scissors.

This is an excellent attitude to subscribe to. I agree with you 100%.

Sorry! I was looking at it backwards. Casts to the right would be early and not late. I was just ribbing you on the overhand cast because a late release overhand can lead to the lure landing right in front of you. An early release could lead to a “rainbow” cast that goes far upward and not so far forward. The culprit may very well be in the set up of the reel’s brakes. You also don’t want to see my learning curve with a bc reel. Downright embarrassing.

Assuming the reel is properly set and the lure can load the rod correctly, the only thing that can make your cast go to the right is an error in your timing of the cast. Simply put, you’re letting go late. It’s a good thing you didn’t make an overhand cast, lol.

Not a problem, but it happened once. A brute of a chum salmon spooled my curado 201DHG I tipped my hat to the fish and felt bad he got stuck with the hook and all that line. He was going to die anyway, but still felt bad.