Bassin_0502

Keep your head down, and just think about the first hit when you get back on the water. Wish you the best, and big Thank You to you and all who serve.

At least in Delaware there is a distinction between 'registration' and 'title'. Trailers are required to have a title just like motor vehicles and the title defines the owner for legal purposes. When you purchase or sell a trailer, the title is transferred (at which point the new owner will re-title it in their name and pay whatever the state transfer tax is). Registration simply defines whether the trailer can be used on the roads, ie has insurance, passes inspection etc. I don't believe that Titles expire, but registrations do. Buying a trailer without a title can be a real problem, expired registration is not. As far as the home-made, some Motor Vehicle Departments will be more lenient than others. Most would look on the axle (or other frame member) and look for a Vehicle ID number stamped. Technically if there is a Title out there somewhere with that number then 'they' own that trailer, not you. A big bag of worms, that could be a real hassle. Good luck

I have the Pelican brand version of that boat and it is made of Ram-X, like a lot of Coleman canoes etc. I just googled Ram-X repair and got a lot of hits, you might try that. (I admit I didn't spend the time to go through many...) Good luck

Hi, My name is Liam and I live in the Raleigh-Durham area. I haven't really caught anything yet, actually I haven't even been fishing yet, but my grandpa bought me a really cool Shakespeare Spincast setup on the day I was born! Can't wait to go out with him and catch some really big ones! Here's a pic of me and my new setup! It's a Buzz Lightyear model, and it seems very well balanced. Looking forward to learning lots from you guys, my grandpa tells me this is THE place for bass fishing knowledge. Liam (not really a member yet)

Don't bother with the soap and water yet, BUT WEAR GLOVES AND GLASSES during all the cleaning work to come. Battery acid is sulfuric acid and as earlier posted, very corrosive. It is not flammable, but it still needs to be cleaned up carefully. If at all possible, the best way would be if the 'boating corner' was near the garage door; if so, start with the garden hose and flush for a good while. If the corner where the spill occurred is inside and you just can't manage flushing with the garden hose, then work with buckets of water. Dilution of the acid on the floor is your friend. Once you have washed as much as you can manage, start putting down baking soda to neutralize the spill. Wash that away and repeat. Once you no longer see fizzing or bubbling when you spread baking soda on the wet spill, you'll know you have finally neutralized the acid. Water (lots) and baking soda (boxes, not spoonfuls). Even if the area dries out, once it wets again and get s on you, you can get burned. Good luck

Those fasteners would be fine when mounted as WayneP describes They will have essentially the same holding power as a nut/bolt/washer fixture with the washer having the same diameter as the large 'flange' side of the fastener. Failure would only happen if you strip the interior threads or if you pull the whole fixture through the mounting board.

I was enjoying this thread and hoping to really learn something new. Seems to be getting a little rough lately, but hey, what the heck do I know, maybe you guys are best buds and have been discussing this question for some time. In any case, I think it's still an important question (just check how many charging threads come up...). Perhaps a couple (or even 1) references or citations to support your positions would really go a long way. All I know is that I don't have the answer yet.

Just checked and BPS has the Revo SX (alone) for $169.99. So unless there should be a '1' in front of the price you quoted, I guess I'd buy what I could carry and start selling on the sites Flea market!

Don't know why the price difference, but one is listed as the 10E, the second lacks the 'E'. The 10E is pre-wired which means that there is a black/red cable with eyelet connectors sticking out of teh inside of the hull in the rear, and a female trolling motor plug mounted in the bow. So you can hook up your battery in the rear and run the trolling motor in the front with no wires. Only problem is I think you need to buy a male connector for you trolling motor leads from Pelican at a pretty high price point, around 35-40 bucks if memory serves. My 10E also had folding seat backs (which is nice by the way, they don't stick up when transporting).

I think that's one of the big selling points for "Gulp', not much experience with it myself, I just bought my first package (for salt water) last week. Plan on trying the fresh water version as soon as the weather cools off some.

Can't take mine as much as I'd like to, he's a beagle/jack mutt that is way too hyper. I don't think I could keep him in the boat...of course he doesn't remember he can't swim worth a darn until he gets in the water.

Nate, Sorry I'm late to the thread, you've probably already come and gone... I fish out of Lewes fairly regularly, the inlet that is located in Lewes is called Roosevelt Inlet, and connects the outflow of the Broadkill River to the mouth of the Delaware Bay. The Indian River Inlet mentioned earlier is about 10 miles south of Lewes and empties directly to the ocean; the rips here pretty scary, an 18' V can disappear from view in a trough pretty easily. There is another danger as well, many shorebound anglers fish from the rocks lining the inlets and a few jetties. At least once a year there is a report of someone found a few days later after presumably slipping on the seaweed covered rocks. If you fish from the beach, there is a State Park, Cape Henlopen, where there is a four wheeler area (of course you can walk as well: I don't drive a 4w. An 11-14 foot rod is the order of the day. The most common catch this time of year will likely be a skate or a sand shark (dogfish). Good luck getting the hook out of either. Most jetty fisherman are going for Tautog (or toggin). It's also called a blackfish in some waters, very tasty, skin is tough as nails, and a bit__ to catch. They live in the rocks, and the bait of the day is green crab or sand fleas. They are extremely light on the bait, you'll be amazed at how often you have to rebait without ever feeling the hit. Season opened on July 1st, 14" minimum, and I think 10 fish per. (Check on the number, but the size is correct I'm sure). Jetty guys are also fishing for flounder, problem is they have a 19" minimum; I can't find them that big unfortunately. Bait is minnows, cut squid ad Gulp. I have not heard of much Striper hits right now near the shore, Fall is a better time from the beach. Bucktails with a squid trailer, live eels, and live spot are some of the best tools. Personally, I think largemouth rods/reels, are pretty lightweight for salt. If nothing else, the tides and currents force you to load up on lead to get to the bottom. I know my Avid won't sling a 2 ounce bank sinker (or won't do it very often!) And last, Delaware has a license requirement for both fresh and salt water fishing. If I haven't missed your trip, good luck. John

You have got to be kidding me! I think I've shopped there before!

You might want to consider a trip to the podiatrist. I had terrible plantar fasc (spelling someone?) Pain was so bad I had to actually crawl on hands and knees if I had to get up in the middle of the night. Anyway, the doc fitted a custom mold and made inserts for me. I haven't gone a day in the last twenty years without them.

Had mine on my trolling motor for a few years now with no problems. It's mounted near the skeg which protects it from hitting the bottom. I also run it directly off (through a fuse of course) the same battery without any problem at all, although some of the guys here warn about interference. You mentioned yours is very large, maybe a different design though.

Bait Monkey says to just buy more setups and keep all sorts of line ready to go!!

In Delaware there are several streams which are stocked with trout; trout do not naturally occur in these waters. So if you want to fish in these streams, you need a Trout Stamp, regardless of whether you're targeting them or not. From the regs: "...required to have a trout stamp ($ 4.20) when fishing in a designated trout stream on or between the first Saturday in April and June 30 and on or between the first Saturday in October and November 30 of the same year." Off topic a little, but we also have to have a FIN (Fisherman Information Network) which is just a registration number indicating that you intend (or not) to fish or crab DE waters (fresh or salt). No charge (yet), but you do need to get a new number each season.

I've learned much from most all the nominees so far, but personally I'd like a day with RW. I still read his 'Guaranteed to catch bass" thread frequently. Just trying to pound patience into my head!

Just food for thought about the image size, a 5" screen is 25 square inches vs 49 square inches for the 7. So the 7 will really give you twice the viewing area. (If the 5 and 7 inch dimensions were diagonals, the numbers will be a little different, point is the same though.)

I know this is off topic, but what's a "pay pond"? A private facility where you pay a fee to fish?

I have the Energy and I really like it. At the risk of rounding up the posse, I like it better than my Citica. Part of that may be that I got mine for $70 bucks at Dicks two years ago, it was on sale for 100 or so and I had a $30 coupon. Don't think you can go wrong with the Energy personally.

My first (cheap) baitcasting set up, trolled for about an hour and got it back. Several hats, usually they floated long enough to circle back and gab them though. Top half of a two piece rod, came back as I cranked, startled the hell out of me though.

Seems to me that any rods that DON'T have the details imprinted as shown is Raul's example probably only come in one 'vanilla' action. Ugly Stick for example. The upper end rods come in a variety of power/action blanks.

Don't cut the wires, make use of the spade connectors you show in the photo. That way you can revert back to D cell use if you ever want to. Drill a small hole to pass a pair of wires out of the back, seal with RTV or something similar, and as others pointed out, get a 3 amp in-line fuse (automotive part store) on the Red lead.

Turtle posted a pic of his raider with a finder/motor set up sometime in January. He pm'd me with a description but I'm a little slow picking up exactly how he did it. Maybe if he reads this he'll post a diagram. From what I recall, he built a console, the plug from the front of the boat is wired to the console and from there it splits, one lead to the motor, the other to the finder. My plan is to buy a male to fit the boat's receptacle and from there to a stud/wing nut onto which I can attache the motor and finder leads. As tennwalkinghorse points out, make sure you fuse the finder lead. I run them both from the same battery, have not had any interference yet, knock on wood.