Bassin_0502

I have a 10' Pelican and mount the transducer on the trolling motor. Found a clamp and a bracket that matches the curve of the motor housing designed for MinKota motors. Skeg protects the transducer very well, works like a champ.

Pretty cool! Does the gimble bracket just happen to be the size your unit needs? Or do they come in different widths?

My tackle shop just uses hot glue as from a glue gun. Worked like a charm for me. Just as info, the tips are sized in 64's of an inch, easiest to use a drill index guide. A size 4 tip is for a rod tip that's 1/16" (or 4/64")

I am completely confused on the topic of "search baits" and hoping some of you can steer me straight. I understand that some baits (spinners, cranks, ..) cover lots of territory, while others are fished slow and over a much more limited area like T - rigged plastics. But if I get a hit with a spinnerbait, why am I going to change to something else? Just the fact that I 'found' the fish with a spinner would seem to me that I should stay with it. Thanks guys, and Happy New Year (Mods feel free to move this if it fits better somewhere else.)

I have the 10 ft version of the Pelican series and it's perfect for two guys. I'm thinking the 8 footer might be a little tight for my tastes. Not sure what you mean by light enough to lift. You're not going to be able to portage like you would a canoe, but I can get my 10 footer in the back of my truck easily enough alone. If you're thinking of car topping, I can't imagine accomplishing that alone with either the 8 or 10. I use a 40 (or maybe 44, can't remember) trolling motor which works fine on the small ponds I fish. Good luck

I said it before...I think the remaining 8 should chip in and send Clark an item or two so he doesn't carry the whole loss. Just say the word when this is Officially Over!

Hope the box turns up, but if not, seems like Clark is the one really getting hosed. Anybody that has seen the box already 'put n took'; anybody that hasn't seen it yet (like me) hasn't been hurt either. Clark filled it to begin with and is out the cost of starting the Pass. I'd suggest we give it a time limit to show up, and if it doesn't, each of the guys participating (both those who have seen it and those waiting) send Clark a few items to make up for his loss. That way at least the pain gets spread around a little. John

I'm really surprised that Penn didn't get more recs. I still use the very first reel I ever bought, some 45 years ago. I fish only Penn reels in salt water. I do not fish anywhere near as frequently as SirSnookalot but as far as long term survivability, I'm very pleased with them. The only complaint I have is the bail spring, sometimes it doesn't close the bail when I start retrieving. (Of course, after reading this forum, I'm trying to break that habit and close the bail manually).

When I was younger, I used to pee over the gunwales, now I pee ALL over the gunwales!

One other 'temp' fix I used was that I attached the screen unit to 2 inch wide Velcro tape, that way I can move the unit easily say from bow to stern on my boat. (Which isn't very far on my 10' Predator!)

I might have missed the point Muddy because you mentioned you had a "mount for our Min Kota." That's where my sensor is mounted, right on the motor pod using a 6 inch or so hose clamp. Ty wrap the wires up the shaft and over the transom, works great, and the sensor is pretty well protected by the skeg.

Thanks for all the great suggestions, I'll learn the Palomar this week. Also, I like the finger trick for the clinch, I'll see if these fat fingers of mine can do that as well.

Had a health problem earlier this year that resulted in losing sight in one eye. I lost all depth perception because of that. (Putting a cap on a pen is a challenge1 I use my fingers to guide it on.) Anyway, I used the Improved Clinch for virtually everything, but I'll you, getting the tag end through the 'loop' between the hook eye and twists is a real chore. Of course it gets worse as the line rating drops. Anyone have a knot suggestion that can be tied with your eyes closed? Thanks all.

Thanks all for the tips. Visiting next weekend, I'll start looking around!

I have last years Rick Clunn (without the cool non-slip surface finish), model #RCX10HC. Right hand retrieve, 6.4:1 ratio. If this is the one you need, pm me and I'll email you a scan of the manual. John

Hi all, I'm just starting to think about retirement in a few years and am thinking about settling in North Carolina, probably central, near the Triangle Park region. Can anyone offer any suggestions about where to consider, ponds, lakes, or realtors? Not looking for a $200K waterfront lot, but perhaps a community with lake access, slips etc. Thanks for any thoughts.

After having several reels trashed by salt water I now ONLY use equipment that is expressly sold as salt water capable. I rinse all my stuff when I get back from either trip, fresh or salt. I do use salt tackle when fishing fresh but never the reverse. The problem is often that a catalog or picture etc does not give enough info (like stainless components etc.) to make the decision. So, if its not in the salt section of Cabelas, BPS, Dick's etc., it doesn't get to go salt water fishing! A grinding bearing is a terrible waste!

I recently bought a Rick Clunn that was on Clearance at BPS. I don't know if there are multiple reels that carry that name. In any case, PM me with your model # and if it matches what I have I will scan my schematic and email it to you. I do know that my reel does not have the cool non-slip coating that the new models have. Mine is also a 6.4:1 don't know if the assembly is different for the different gearings.

I just ordered the 7'0" med/fast casting rod from Tackle Warehouse, no shipping charges, and they have a 15% off Memorial Day sale---Mojo for $76! Can't wait, unfortunately the rod's out of stock until June 10th or so.

I had a 17' Coleman and used an Old Town mount borrowed from a buddy for a MinKota 40lb motor. Moved along well enough, but pretty uncomfortable turning around to manage the tiller as Fishin Rhino earlier pointed out. I could never stand in a canoe, with or without motor, 295 and a high center of gravity just wouldn't work that well! Also as pointed out by snapshotmd, I topped it on my F150, quite a pain in the butt to do alone, also scratched the top of my cab doing it. Tying bow and stern lines, getting the little foam cushions on just right, all in all a pita. I bought a 10' Pelican Bass Hunter and would never look back. I can pop that baby in the bed of the truck and in minutes be on my way. Good luck whichever way you go!

I bought a pair of sunglasses at Costco a few months back. They came with 4 sets of interchangeable lenses: smoke grey for bright light, amber for lower light levels, yellow for overcast and low light, and clear. All are polarized. I think they ran about $35 or so.

email sent, Hope I'm in time!

There is a drain plug on my Pelican Predator, I think they are similar boats. Sounds like your drain plug may have been left off or open. If that's not the case, take it back right away. These boats collect --a little-- water between the hull and deck, not so much you can't lift them.

I don't have nearly the experience of others on this forum, but I just bought an Energy PT a few weeks ago for $80. After 2 times out, I noticed that my line was frayed (kinda like a split end on hair). The 'grommet' where the line enters the level winder was split and it was catching my line. The Reel Mechanic tipped me off that it was a defect, and not part of the design. Brought it back to Dick's and received another no problem. Other than that, I like it a lot. It's very smooth, and I just like the feel and balance in my hand. I can't offer any info as to how long it will 'last'. Many of the guys here don't think highly of the Quantum's.

Here's the link I posted in mid-July. I just checked and it worked, good luck. http://secsports.com/doc_lib/sec_dsg_coupon2.pdf