Team9nine

No pic, but what we call snotgrass around here is filamentous algae, of which the Spirogyra @RoLo mentioned is one type. The best way to deal with it fishing/location wise that I’ve found is to largely treat it like it doesn’t exist. Except in the shallowest water where it might create opportunities to position fish, it doesn’t do much otherwise. I’d focus instead on other breaks or breaklines that exist. Those things will now take on greater importance, at least initially. You will still get fish cruising shallow through these areas than can be caught, but they typically keep moving unless there is something else to pause them. Hard to fish baits through the shallowest areas, but things like frogs do a decent job. The other thing is to look for small openings that you can sometimes exploit between the shoreline and the snotgrass.

Of course they do ...but do they care

Off the top of my head, I'd say it depends on whether you are talking spinning or baitcasting. With spinning, I'd imagine braid would cast furthest due to having lowest linear density and lowest coefficient of friction. With baitcasting, my first guess would be fluoro due to the higher linear density and rotational inertia mentioned above, but that might be somewhat offset by a limp mono, so it would probably be close between those two line types.

Cut the line and try to remove any plastic you can, or cut part of the hook off if you carry small wire cutters with you as pictured in another recent post. The damage has already been done, but you won’t make it worse, and at least some fish will survive just fine.

This still seems like the best advice ^^ You just need more time and experience with the bait and outfit. CR and wacky I could understand a larger percentage gut hooked, but not TR.

Only one way to find out ? scientists often base this on carapice length, but no telling how a bass judges things.

You can Google it as it gets somewhat detailed, but studies show bass will selectively feed on certain sizes of crayfish based on how abundant, as well as how easy it is to catch and eat them. Once the easy ones are gone or less abundant, then they often move on to another size class of craws. I’m guessing for whatever reason, probably environmental, the smallest craws are the most abundant or easiest for them to catch in your waters right now. It may last or it may be temporary.

They’re professionals. It’s all about efficiency when they can get away with it.

Optimal Foraging Theory

No negatives in my eyes with fluoro for buzzers. It’s all I use for them most days, and the big positive is it keeps me from having to respool some other outfit to dedicate to buzzing ?

Still doing mostly short trips on the bank because of the heat. Looking forward to a cool down so I can get the boat out more. Regardless, the bite has been pretty steady. Mini and micro jigs have become the new "hot" bait for my lakes, and accounting for most fish the past few weeks. Been getting a few nice ones in the mix including this pair of fish over 20" the past week. Two separate trips to two separate small waters despite the "favorite" big bass shirt being worn in each Also had a first the other day...I actually had to remove my shoes and wade in after one of these guys after he balled me up in some heavy grass and I couldn't budge him without risking breaking the 8# line or pulling out the tiny hook (and he refused to swim out). Now sitting at an even 1700 bass caught for the year, but I'm planning on going out later after lunch

"The more you know, the less you throw"

Usually depends on a few factors including how many I’ve caught and if I’ve caught a good one on the trip. Otherwise time is often a factor, or even how I feel that day. Much easier to walk away if I landed a nice fish earlier on the trip, or as my last fish. If not, then it often depends on how many I’ve caught. I like ending on certain numbers as targets. If I get one, I want two. If I have more than two, I want five. More than 5, I want 10...then 12, 15, 20, 24, 25, etc. Was able to walk away today at 22 figuring I’d leave the other half of the lake unpressured for tomorrow ?

Fluoro in that situation and those baits...I’d use 12#

Micro jig & trailer

Same as baitcast - 75 to 100 yds depending on line spool size and type line. Go to the high end of that range on braid topping.

Pics? Kind of curious what “melting” looks like as I’ve used Zman baits for 9 years and only once had a pkg truly melt, and it was because I moved them into another non Zman pkg I thought was clean.

Similar to the above, I use a Rapala digital culling scale for exact weights, but have had a Chatillon spring scale forever as a backup and a “confirmer” if necessary. It works 100% of the time regardless of weather or battery status ? ...and yes, they are just as accurate at the 3-6lb weight range, though they all weigh in increments.

My last order a few weeks ago took about a week to ship and then another 4-5 days to get here.

Can't recall that exact one, but the idea isn't novel. A Japanese company called Fish Arrow has a wide range of similar products if you're trying to find more. A company called Lunkerhunt also has premade clip on wire spinnerbait arms. Probably others available also.

You’re in good shape for what you want to throw. Go 6’8” - 6’10” and use the 6.3

It does, slightly better than a traditional straight shank RB. But it is still just the weight/dynamics of the hook trying to accomplish that versus the weight of a hook and a lead head, the latter being designed to ride "upright" in most cases. A bullet weight is still just a cylinder with no penchant for direction. You can change that slightly by filing one section/side flat to create that COG offset, especially if using pegged. That said, I don't think you'll be reading about any of those guys punching with their shakyheads anytime soon It's still largely a game of the best tool for the job, regardless.

Got to sell those new, expensive shaky heads ? There is minimal line twist on a properly rigged TR. I would guess on some additional twist if slack line falling and using some large curl/ribbon tails, or anytime you reel in and something has changed that straight rigging (missed hookset, casting force, brief snagging, etc.). TR only has the hook to act as a keel, while a shaky has the dynamic shape of a jighead always at work. I personally would still choose either based on the degree and thickness of the cover being fished.

Saw this one mentioned in another thread and thought it was worth adding to my list: underspins. They seem best in clear water and with schoolies, two things we don’t have much of in the reservoirs around here. Not a single bass yet on one.

Gave up Senkos about 20 years ago Fastest way to lose $8 other than just throwing your money right into the lake. Have replaced them these days with jighead wacky (worms) and caught thousands since. Also haven't thrown a spinnerbait in something like 10 years - any brand. And have only caught 1 Whopper Plopper fish and haven't thrown them since (about 4+ years now). Zman baits, OTOH - Probably 60% of my 1600+ bass YTD have come on either Finesse TRDs, 1/2 ZinkerZ or Finesse WormZ.