Team9nine

Yep ^^ The dive curve is the dive curve under a range of normal retrieve speeds. The thing is, you need to know what that dive curve looks like for each bait, as some reach maximum depth quicker than others, and burning a bait too fast for too long might turn part of your cast into wasted effort.

Dig around and research Precision Casting by Holt and Romanack. One of their many findings is that retrieve speed makes almost no difference in the depth curves of crankbaits. Slower retrieve speeds actually gain you a few inches, but that's about it. Stop and go retrieves also play very little in the equation. Length of cast and line diameter are the two primary components involved.

Makes sense now. The issue is that fishing lines are incredibly complex things when combined with knots. I've researched tons of knot tests over the years, and what you see is that knots work differently in different lines; different brands of the same type line material, different types of line material by the same brand, or even differently between pound test ratings of the same brand/material. Usually, doubling the line for a given knot will increase strength, but there are limits depending on material. Nylon/copoly - line knots typically get stronger as the knots get more complex. Fluorocarbon is the opposite, weakening as the knots get more complex. Even Swindle mentioned not tightening his knot down (looks like a double line clinch to me) too much in the video - believe it's the same as Zona's, only Zona uses less full turns (less complex). So very hard hooksets and infrequent retying as you mention above could potentially be a large part of the problem you're seeing. Might just check a couple simpler "standard" fluorocarbon knots like SDJ to see if there is any change; or simply retie a lot more often and maybe not change anything. As an aside, one thing I've noticed, and I've checked this out on the water (lol), is that you can frequently tell with a micrometer when fluorocarbon is starting to go bad. It will start necking down just above the knot slightly, which is the formation of the weak point in the line. The more pressure, and for longer periods of time, the more likely this is to happen. Again, the simple fix is to retie more frequently with fluoro. Anyway, good luck with figuring out the solution. We all go through it at some point, and it can be frustrating.

My vote is for this ^^ lol. Of course, you could start fishing green worms with blue tails and see how many bass you start missing/losing because they go for what they think is the head, but in reality are short striking at the tail of your bait. Maybe you won't even get any bites because they'll be so confused, wondering why the bait/bluegill is swimming backwards, not knowing whether to hit the head of the moving plastic or the head of the backward swimming "bluegill" (which is the tail of the bait since that's where the blue is). Yes, I've already done the experiment above

PURGE!! ☺️

So these breaks are actually down at or just above the lure, not the braid to fluoro connecting knot? And why are you using the BBK in fluoro? I agree with the above that switching leader types is one possible solution, but I’d be switching connection knots, too. Depending on what you go with, switch to something like SDJ, Palomar, Pitzen or similar. The more complicated the knot (bends, wraps, overlays), the more it doesn’t play well with fluoro.

Everybody always trying to sell you something new and expensive these days. Just use any good, appropriately sized jighead you already have in whatever weight you need. Works great most days.

Thanks for the link. Unfortunately, the way the gentleman ties the GT knot in the video does not appear to be the same as the way it was tied in the IGFA testing he references for the strongest knot tested. That testing used the Bimini twist double line braid, not the single line uni he shows. Not sure how much difference it makes. Be curious to see how yours and others on-the-water tests go.

I’m guessing since you said it’s faster/easier to tie, you aren’t using the version with the Bimini but instead the figure eight knot? Haven’t tried it yet, but pretty sure Luke over at SaltStrong said ‘no-go,’ significantly weaker than FG, when I was researching it last night. As long as it keeps working for you, I’d say keep using it and keep us posted.

Not certain it really makes a big difference in the scheme of things. Immediately trying to burn it down will sometimes allow the plug to "surf" or roll if it hasn't had a chance to settle in the water, ruining a portion of your cast. Otherwise, you might save a few seconds burning it down vs. going slower to start, but not a huge deal in my book. Maybe if you were a professional where every second counts. I usually just start off with a medium-fast retrieve to get it down with the first few turns of the handle, then slow up a bit as the fish or cover dictate, kind of a "happy medium." Probably more personal preference than anything.

Indiana update. Checking in with 1362 as of today. Only change has been a recent reservoir jig bite which accounts for about 5% of that total. Otherwise, everything else on just a handful of baits - shallow crank (water dependent), swim bait (ongoing), Ned (lots), jerkbait (spring - done now), and finesse worm (strong the past two months).

Have caught quite a few over the years. This Buffalo got me a state "fish of the year" award for largest of it's kind caught in Indiana back in 2014. It was on 3# braid with a 5# fluoro leader.

Next day out, and back to straight fluoro on the jig rods. Experiment over - lol. Did run the braid on a Carolina Rig setup like mentioned, but the tungsten sinker sliced the braid in two on the very first hang through some hard bottom areas. Needless to say, it's gone now (the braid), too. Hey, but there's always topwater or frogging, I guess Anyway, good followup day on the home reservoir. Ten more keepers in about 4 hrs of fishing. Unfortunately, lots of wind and rain in the forecast for the next 5 days or so. Might have been the last boat trip for a bit. Probably back to the bank walking inbetween storms. Here's a few from yesterday:

If this is really an ultralight setup, then go with 3, 4 or 5lb. braid. I routinely throw all 3 sizes for both bass and panfish (Power Pro), though I’m not certain they make the 3lb. “Microline” any more...but I still have a small stash left. If instead this is more for general finesse bass fishing, then the higher 10-15lb. suggestions above would be more appropriate.

Finally stuck a couple good ones on an interesting day out at the local reservoir. Managed 18 bass total, but the fun part was an "experiment" I set up just to play around with. Rigged up 3 identical jigs to 3 similar outfits (baitcasting) - 1 with straight braid, one with braid to leader, and one with straight fluoro. Needless to say, nothing changed my mind out on the water today, so I'll be sticking with the straight fluoro and changing out the other two rigs May keep the braid on one to try with a Carolina Rig just for the heck of it.

Believe mostly weather related in some form or fashion depending on timing. Heavy rainfall early in the year (and cool), but recently it’s been hot and dry, and that is always a good trigger for algae growth and blooms. Several state reservoirs have already put out blue-green warnings. Specifically, Waveland has a history of fish kills, so no surprise there, but some of your observations mentioned don’t add up. The good news is the bass fishing has been decent on most every lake you listed, with winning weights at 15+ within the past couple weeks for a bunch of them.

A lot depends upon the type of compound they are using to treat your weeds, and the type weeds you have. If they are using a simple contact herbicide, then the only vegetation that will likely be affected will be in the shallows immediately in the area of the spraying. Deeper weeds, especially those offshore a ways would likely not be affected. That doesn't mean the fish will use them though, as it also partly depends upon how much treatment and how many weeds you had. If they die off suddenly and there were a lot, the decomposition will eat up a lot of the available oxygen and the fish may not have an option of going deep. If it's a slower systemic type kill, oxygen shouldn't be a problem, and the fish will probably be a mix of those that gravitate to whatever shallow cover remains, and those that move a little deeper into unaffected areas and greener weeds. A lot is just guesswork uness you can get the name of the chemical used and the type of vegetation being treated.

Pretty much this ^^ Biologists use various metrics to determine bass population size structure in lakes. In most public waters here in Indiana, bass 18” and larger only comprise 0-3 percent of all bass in the lake. Our best waters only approach about 10%, so like @Bluebasser86 anything 18 inches or above qualifies as a nice bass in my book. Depending upon location, health and time of year, an 18” bass weighs between 3-3.25 pounds. If you look at the recent Bassmaster Opens, not a single angler averaged 3 lbs per bass on the AR River, and only 3 anglers did on Kissimmee. Even at the Elite level, 50 of the 86 anglers at Eufala also couldn’t catch a 3lb average across their 5 fish per day. Like legit 5lb bass, its a pretty good metric across most of the country.

Secret - lol. Fritts kind of put it on the map back in the 90s, and about every serious cranker at the time owned a whole bunch of them. Has always been my favorite color to this day nearly 30 years later. Don't forget to hang it in your window or leave it out on your dash so you can dull down the finish, too

Don't think you are going to have much of a choice from the looks of it...between the existing transducer and the speedo. I'd probably try and place it as close to the right of the existing transducer as feasible, or squeeze it in if there's room to the left of the engine between the drain plug and intake, or just left of intake screen. You could always move the existing transducer over slightly if you need to create more room and fill the existing screw holes.

Most of what I’ve done this year has been walking the banks of subdivision lakes. That said, some of our reservoirs are clear enough to sight fish for bass in spring, and the northern natural lakes are especially good for this. Always lots of spawners in the canals, and most tourneys this time of year up there are won bed fishing/sight fishing.

"Something to think about: If you fish the wrong fly long and hard enough, it will sooner or later become the right fly.” - John Gierach I’ve always liked John’s quote above. There is no ‘right’ or universal answer to the question, IMO. You either look like a genius when you finally pull a nice fish out after 50 casts to the same spot, or an idiot when you don’t. The trick is in finding the proper balance between the two outcomes on any given day ?

Looks like a smallmouth with black spot disease

Did the early retirement thing myself this year. Try and keep boat trips through the week only, but between crappy spring weather and ridiculous Covid crowds at the lakes this year, boat trips have only been once or twice a week. That said, similar to you I've been filling in with bank trips (I consider it my daily exercise routine) and have never spent more time fishing than this year...and that’s saying something because I’ve always fished a lot ?

Beat the incoming storms today. Winds gusting 20+, but was able to fish plastics on the calmer banks. Once I got around to the windier side, had to switch to swimbaits to keep good contact with the presentation. Paid off right away with the best fish of the day out of 20. Have now reached 1,120 bass YTD and counting. Loving this retirement stuff ?