Team9nine

The thermocline is usually considered as the depth at which the temperature gradient is steepest during the summer. But the technical definition states this gradient must be at least 1 degree Celsius per meter of depth. As others have mentioned, you can’t determine if one has formed yet based on the data you posted since we have no idea at what depths any of those readings came from. You probably have that info though, so you might still be able to answer your own question. It likely is not the coldest band of water like you mentioned, though.

Nope, not really.

Agreed. I ran a bunch of tests years back comparing lines and Sensation was always toward the ‘least stretch’ end of the spectrum from what I recall. I’ll have to see if I can dig up some of the old data.

Ditto on the above comments; historically, original Stren has always been high stretch. It’s one reason why I use it the most as a leader material with braid.

Nobody said nothing about ‘oranges’ ?

Johnny O’Neils Weed Wing...or a similar version

Got the boat out on the local reservoir the past two days chasing bass. For as long as I’ve fished here, one pattern I can always count on is the fish moving to riprap banks every June after spawning. Lots of theories as to why, but you can pretty much count on it like clockwork. Put a BOOYAH jig on my Evergreen Combat Stick and just moved around the lake both days stopping at every riprap bank I came to. Ended up with 33 bass total in two afternoon trips.

I just go with their Finesse WormZ (4" or 7") - much better action, and so many different ways I can rig them if wacky isn't the bait du jour. I do keep a good supply of ZinkerZ though for cutting in half for jig head/Ned fishing.

Here we go again. Live by the Senko - die by the Senko (your wallet, that is) It is what it is - get used to it... Or do what I did over 20 years ago and just stop buying/using them. These days, it's jig head wacky with Zman baits for me. Average 25 bass per bait, and can go much higher. I posted a couple reports earlier this month where I got 43 bass out of one wacky rigged bait - and they start off nearly 50% less expensive than a Senko on top of that!

Interesting - the real old original hand carved Hubs Chubs were white pine. No idea if the Rhoden or Edger baits were ever made of wood. At least we've got it pinned down to just a couple possible ID options - lol.

Likely - Hubs Chubs were at first, hand carved wood baits started in the early 1950s. They began mass production in plastic in the late 1950s. I don't think the Rhoden baits came out until the 1970s or a little later. Warren Hubbard, the original designer, is also know more so for his most famous creation, the Sparkletail

UPDATE: After a little searching, it turns out you probably have a similar Florida version called the "Johnny Rattler" made by Rhoden Enterprises that was located in Lake Wales, FL. The only real difference is the chin notch that the original Hubs Chub didn't have. Hubs Chub were started in the 1950s in Indiana as a wooden bait, at first, and then later plastic. The Florida version by Rhoden came about later, in the 1970s & 1980s.

Looks like a Hubs Chub (Rattalur), or a close knockoff. Billy Westmoreland promoted for them way back when. I've got half a dozen or so...

From several animated knot sights, the difference is that an Albright is started from the top, kind of like an SD Jam, then wrapped down, which wraps both the main line ends (2) and braid line, while the “Lazy Alberto/Shin) is started from the bottom like a normal Alberto and wrapped up, only wrapping the two loop-forming main lines.

From the video I saw of Shin tying his knot, it is just a “lazy Alberto,” with 10 wraps going up instead of 5 up/5 down or whatever combo you use. Took me a bit to realize it, but watch it slow (and repeatedly), then imagine tying it in reverse (backwards). It then looks like line through loop, 10 wraps up, then tag back through loop. Anyone else agree?

Missed this post somehow, but Trick Step facility is just down the street from me. Good people, and very popular locally with a lot of anglers. Always see boats coming and going from their shop.

He said, “Jika” Like Bluebasser, don’t own any here, and probably wouldn’t after the “Tokyo rig.” Just haven’t found a specific niche on my waters that requires it. “The more you know, the less you throw.”

Agree with this ^^ As you can see, my combos are all over the color spectrum, but it’s actually pretty easy for me to know which combo gets what line type and dedicated lure presentation by the character on the spool cover.

I think Charlie Brewer was right ? Just ignore the “machine-gunners” and wait for the single ‘tap’ and “slow motion” swim-off ?

By not using a Senko in the first place - lol - that’s a “losing” game. Most days I fish “flick shake” or “jig head wacky” with Zman plastics and average about 25 bass per worm.

I think Buck Perry (back in the 1970s Fishing Facts magazines, along with his book, Spoonplugging in ‘73) was the first to write extensively about the three requirements for successful fishing: being in the right place, at the right time, and fishing in the right manner. Nothing has changed that IMO over the last 50 years.

Yeah, ‘auto’ doesn’t like huge swings in variation. This probably would only happen in the shallows (<10 ft). Might be hard to adjust for, but if you really only fish shallow most of the time, locking in a shallower manual depth setting might be the trade-off for your situation. Play around and report back - will be curious to hear. Good luck

Kind of confirmed what I'm thinking. My first guess is it's not a bad transducer. Today's units are pretty powerful, and having the unit in auto, it will sometimes overcompensate or have a hard time trying to adjust to certain conditions. In this case, it looks like heavy weed growth in shallow water, and probably over a softer bottom. It looks like it overcompensated, corrected itself, then overcompensated again. Next time out, try a test. Take the unit out of auto mode. Manually set depth and power just to see if it stays with the correct reading. Not sure what the area/lake is like where you were at, but pick a decent depth range (15-30') and a power setting that doesn't blow things out; perhaps 55-65% just to see what it does. My guess is it will work fine once you do this. If it keeps happening in manual, then I would say you have a case for a bad transducer or cable/connection.

Randy has been hanging out and reading these forums again ? Lots of content providers here, apparently - lol.