wasabi_VA

I bought this Daiwa precision oiler and it is clogged with something I can’t dislodge. And I can’t remember where I bought it. Are there cheap replacement oiler needles?

I have access to a pond that has no way to get a kayak to it. But I can hike to it so I was thinking of one of those inner tube style things I always saw in magazines as a kid. Anybody know of a modern product like this that can be broken down / deflated and put in a backpack? I can bring my 20v inflator to blow it up.

Almost all my spinning combos have the line slapping in the first rod guide, which I feel while working a life and retrieving. Are all manufacturers switching to smaller first guides? It’s really annoying.

My bearings are frozen so I think they are just acting as bushing. Unfortunately they are not on the schematic so I can’t order replacements.

Recently went into my Akuma spinning reel and discovered 2 small bearings - one on top of the other - directly underneath my drag washers. Since the spool stays stationary during retrieve I’m assuming they have no affect on retrieve smoothness, correct? They would only come into play if the drag is being pulled?

Do they make something like a sleeve that will heat shrink down on it?

I can't find a replacement handle for this Okuma SGT-30 (made for Dick's). During a deep clean/lube I busted a chunk of the handle paddle off while adding some oil. Is there a material I can try to fill it in? I thought of building it up with epoxy like E6000 but that would adhere to the cap and I'd never get it off again.

I have some older braid on a reel that I want to reverse. Any slick ways to do it without unspooling to spool 2, spooling to spool 3, then bringing it back to spool 1?

Figured it out. I had only reassembled far enough to crank the handle to ensure I had the gears and everything back together right. But I hadn't put the rotor or rotor nut back on. I now see that tightening the rotor nut positions the pinion just right and now I don't have that gear issue. Doh! Sorry guys, but you did help me to keep on looking at it instead of crushing it with a sledge hammer. It's an older reel but still seems serviceable, and should smooth out a little more if I can find a few bearings available.

yes both are there as per scematic

yes

I’ve never heard of them being anywhere, but around pilings and concrete. When do they go onto flats?

I’m servicing an older Okuma spinning reel (SGT 30) and was able to tear down completely and clean/re-lube. The reel now turns like the gears aren’t properly meshed. I’m confident I reassembled correctly. I’m going to go back in but I’m not sure if this has something to do with the transmission gear or the main+pinion gear. Any sugggestions on how to troubleshoot? I intend to replace several bearings and possibly replace the felt washers with carbon washers, but not if I can’t resolve this rough gearing issue.

Do you think a Fuego or Tatula CT is enough reel to fight sheepshead?

I plan to fish saltwater more - at first maybe 3 to 4 multi-day trips a year - and wondering if my existing gear is fine or if I really should pick up a saltwater rated casting reel. I’m pretty good about spraying off my rods/reels. My current casting reels are Daiwa Fuego CT and Tatula CT.

I’ve never had much interest in fly fishing, although many a time couldn’t help but notice a fly fisherman catching fish while I couldn’t get a bite. I like the idea of the presentation but it’s the loose line collecting at one’s feet that seems awkward. I mostly kayak fish and think this could just become a tangled mess. That said…still curious

Gonna target some pickerel at a lake known for them next week. Most will be 2 to 3 lbs. I have some 15 lb. fluoro to use as a leader - does that seem sufficient?

Yes I know it looks like a child abused it repeatedly but that isn’t the case. I am sure I allowed a jig to contact it only a few times. I crappie fish a ton and just don’t jam a jig into the tip like that. I really have to wonder what quality metal was used.

No it was purchased 2 years ago.

I wonder why they chose a steel eye? All my other rods have a ceramic eye and show no wear after 10 times the usage.

I recently noticed my ultralight TFO rod has developed a very worn rod tip. This rod has only seen a couple months of use and I run 4 lb. mono. The rod tip insert/ring is metallic (stainless?) and I checked all my other rods and they showed no wear with their ceramic rod tips. I assume I caused this wear by occasionally feeling a 1/16 ounce crappie jig all the way to the tip. But on the rare instance I do this I am not applying gorilla pressure so I am surprised to see so much wear. I am wondering if this has as much to do with the rod tip materials they use as much as my sometimes reeling a jig against it?

isn’t there a concern about mixing lubricants? Not knocking your suggestion, just trying to learn and do a better job maintaining my reels.

I have 3 Daiwa Fuego LT spinning reels - 2 are 2500 series, one is the 1000 series. I've been very satisfied with them although after 2 years of moderately heavy use the 1000 reel is feeling a little less smooth like it needs oil. I'm curious if the spool shaft should receive grease or oil where it enters the reel body, or perhaps even nothing at all?

Wore my thin sun protection hoody today but wished it was just a little thicker. Know of a sun protection hoody that is kinda between a sweatshirt and the regular really thin hoodies that are like tissue paper and sold everywhere?

Do they still make Gulp? I assumed Gulp Alive was like 'gen 2' and just Gulp was older.