wasabi_VA

I have a tub of Gulp Alive minnows I haven’t opened yet and also a couple zip lock bags of Gulp minnows that are a few years old. Can I dump the ziplock Gulp minnows into the Gulp Alive?

I have a battery box and am trying to get away from it as I have clearance issues with the extra space of the box

I have to transport the battery for my kayak's 100aH LiON trolling motor by hand between my truck and the launch. The battery doesn't come with a carry strap like my old school lead acid batteries did in my jonboats. Has anybody seen a good add-on carry strap for batteries that lack one? It is light but still requires 2-hand carry so a strap would free up one hand for carrying other junk.

You mean me or @WRB 🤣 You mean me or @WRB 🤣

I've had this Cabelas Advanced Angler tackle bag for a few years now and it has held up pretty well. But this year I'm noticing it seems to be rougher than I recall and not sure what would improve it. I tried rubbing wax on it to smooth it out but that hasn't worked. It's the heavy zipper along the top, and the thinner tape style zippers are working fine. Any suggestions?

I'm 58 and have experienced increasing thumb/CMC joint pain for the past year. Yesterday I finally saw a doc who confirmed the CMC joint arthritis. I received a steroid shot which is supposed to help with pain (although it is extra sore today). Fortunately I predominately fish spinning rods and hold my rod with my right hand, but hold my casting rods with my left hand. I did not fish much last year so didn't get to see how this increasing joint pain might affect my fishing but am sure it is just a matter of time. I'm getting a low profile brace and will have to see how that affects me holding casting rods and reeling with my left hand. I fish from a kayak and am also worried about how losing grip strength is going to impact me launching and recovering my kayak - which has been awkward and at times strenuous but doable with 2 good hands. Has anybody continued to fish through onset and further degradation of thumb CMC arthritis and have any tips of how you dealt with it?

Where?

This weekend I bought a new inshore rod (TFO) and reel for trout/drum fishing out of my kayak. The reel is a Stradic 2500HG FM ( not sure what the FM means). Shimano's website doesn't say it is saltwater rated. I'm seeing mixed stuff at retailer websites. Any idea if it is or not? I always rinse my stuff off anyway but still want the reel on this setup to be saltwater rated since it's going to be dedicated to that task.

I'm hoping to find a more robust set of drawers/cabinets and not build something

Here's a photo of my fishing gear storage system. Basically it's a mixture of clear-ish storage drawer organizers, and while it works the drawers always seem jerky and don't always slide open smoothly. I'm wondering if anybody can recommend an improved solution that doesn't need any more storage space than what I am using here. One redeeming feature of these is that they are clear/semi-clear which helps to recognize at-a-glance what is in some of the drawers even though I have tried to label them.

Thank you for the generous offer but I'm pretty far away in Virginia

I have an Ionic 100aH LiFePO4 battery for my trolling motor but would also like to use this battery for some portable power when camping. This battery has a max discharge current of 100A so conceivably I can get 1200W out of it, although I would never pull anywhere near that much. I'm thinking maybe a 500 - 750w inverter? I have an older 300W inverter with an annoyingly loud fan that runs no matter the current draw. I'm hoping to get a new inverter that doesn't have a fan kick on for light to moderate loads. Any suggestions for a suitable brand/model inverter?

Yeah, I might give him a try as his prices look really good. How can I tell if these are counterfeit? I've seen a lot of amazing counterfeit products from China that even fool a lot of retailers. Not casting shade on this Chris, just recognizing it's become a big problem and want to know I'm getting the real deal.

Yes, but I have a pretty flexible job so I can slip away pretty easy and stay in touch via my cell phone for most things that need me.

Currently using Flying Fisherman sunglasses, they are relatively low end I'm paying like $20 a pair. Hate to go with a $100+ pair as I feel like they will get scratched or lost. Anything in the $40 to $75 price range that you feel are very well made and worth the money?

This rod still has some life so any tips to fill in this missing chunk of cork?

Looking for a 7' medium-heavy/fast spinning rod to pair with a 3000 - 4000 reel to be used for snakeheads, carp and occasionally puppydrum/trout? I fish from a kayak. Budget is $150 and under. I have some heavier spinning rods but they have large butts not designed for casting/retrieving. Any suggestions?

I changed from Auto-Scroll to medium and it seemed to help some. Still no arches and now I'm getting these weird lines. At first I thought it meant a fish was swimming upwards but there are too many. The 2nd pic shows it with split screen with the 200kHz on the left and 77 kHz on the right. Seems like it is a 200 kHz issue with my unit? I'd prefer to stick with the 200kHz ducer as it is supposed to be more powerful and show better detail of what is directly below the boat over the 77 kHz which has a wider beam. Sorry for the glare.

I'll need to check but pretty sure I have it set to Auto Scroll. Even though I'm in a slow moving kayak I still recall getting arches when I had my boat and was going at trolling motor speeds. So maybe this is the Auto-Scroll doing it?

I can't ever seem to get my Garmin Vivid Striker 4cv dialed in to where i want. It's been several years. I just go with whatever it says and do my best. Lately I'm noticing I never ever see arches anymore even when my kayak is moving 3 to 4 mph. I just get these vertical lines and not sure if that represents large fish or what it's telling me. I fool with the gain, seems to always go to Auto mode when I power it off/on, then lower the gain to take out a lot of clutter I always get. Is there any setting that might be reducing arches and producing more vertical lines? and more info...This is with the GT20 transducer mounted in a transducer well underneath the kayak and the CHIRP 200kHz freq.

I noticed my new Victron IP65 charger was only putting out 14.2v during the absorption phase while charging my Ionic 12v 100aH battery. I had seen the Ionic website indicating their batteries should be charged at 14.6v, although I have charged it a few times to 100% with the 14.2v level and can't really tell if anything was different. The Victron will let me set up a custom charge profile which I can change the output to 14.6v for the charge phase. Has anybody set up a custom profile with their charger?

Yep, I just learned this 30 minutes ago after getting a knot to snug down decently. Good knot but big and not happy with the upper rod guides. I'm going to have to shorten my leader to whatever can stick out the top guide when I cast.

I will use steel for the actual leader to the hook. The 80lb is considered shock leader to prevent abrasion breakoffs

I am setting up a rod for shark fishing at the beach next week and trying to add about 20' of 80lb mono leader to my 30 lb. mono. I tried tying my usual double-uni knot to join fishing lines but the 80lb line didn't want to cinch down into a tight knot. When I cut the tag end off it actually unraveled. I lubed it with spit before tightening. I can try it again and maybe work the knot better but wondering if this is the right knot for joining such a heavy leader? I do have 50 lb. mono leader I can use instead but was trying to tie on the heaviest I had to both endure any abrasion and also give me some heavy line to pull a shark up the beach a bit.

You would do that because you feel it is most like regular PowerPro of because you want to try the new Hammer Braid?